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I just converted my 03 back last summer. iirc: I believe all it took was removing the kit and locating an original shift linkage rod.. (could cut the extended one off and rethread it, 6x1.0mm threading die needed) You DO have to pull the stock exhaust to get the frame bolts out, maybe not if you have aftermarket exhaust...


Edit: I liked the extensions for around town and shorter rides, Last trip I was ready to toss them on the side of the road after about the 8th day. 5'11" 32" inseam...

still on the bench if any taller people are interested, make offer. bare aluminum, Not as nice as the TC brothers kit.
 

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I guess the other side of that was they were on there for ten years before I pulled them off... Just found them uncomfortable on the really long all day rides. Decided to change it back. Thicker-soled boots may have been all I needed...
 

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They are stock mounts bolted to the extensions. Brake pedal pivot is on the peg frame bracket that is now bolted to the extensions. You may need a stock brake rod if yours is a 1 piece back to the bellcrank on the frame. Some kits just had an extension that hooked to the stock brake rod. That TC kit pictured above appears to have a 1 piece brake rod. Depends on the kit you have. Still, at worst should only need the stock shifter linkage rod and the stock brake rod to change back. Possibly 1 exhaust pipe crush gasket if you have to remove the front pipe to get the bolts out.
 

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Look again, the coupler for the brake rod is right behind the front pipe on the right side. Which brings up the question: are those pipes for an Ace or Spirit? Have to try it to see if the pipes clear the peg bracket. I remember it's tight even with the correct ones.
 

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Horn stays there, brake rod on yours has the 8" black flat bar from the kit that comes off the pedal and goes to the oem round rod. Right behind the pipe, there's a Clevis pin setup connecting them behind the front pipe. When the extension is removed the oem rod you have will connect directly to the brake pedal once you move the pegs and mounts back. You will need an oem length shift rod. Rod should be Left Hand thread on the transmission end I believe. If you shorten the existing one, don't cut the wrong end off. (I'd buy an oem one and sell the kit complete.)
 

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Think 91 may be unnecessary, the stock compression ratio does not require it. Unless they changed pistons, regular is fine. Exception being, if it pings, maybe due to advanced ignition timing, then use 91

I would use ethanol-free any octane rating over the ethanol blend if it's available. Ethanol is not carb-friendly.
 

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I'd have to question your neighbor's knowledge of this bike. These don't have a choke butterfly etc to close it off. The "choke" knob opens an enrichment port in each carb, enriches the mixture and speeds up the idle. if it dies when pushing the knob in you probably need to remove the caps over the pilot screws if you haven't yet, then remove the pilot screws and blow some carb cleaner through the passages. idle speed knob on left side could be way off also. pay attention to the parts diagram, don't lose anything and put them back in the correct order.
 
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