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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey yall, i need some help with my foot controls. I am new here but couldnt find a post with what i need. So i just bought a 1999 Shadow ACE(VT750CD) and the prior owner was over 6ft tall. The issue im having is the foot controls have been extended due to his height. I need to go back to the orginal linkages but cant find them or the part numbers. I need to know what it looks like orginally, part numbers, a stock pic and if i can use the existing foot rests with oem linkage. I dont have anything to compare it to. To give a little background he was over 6ft and i am 5ft 5 at 120 lbs. Another issue is my right foot has a limited range of motion due to a disability so i need to bring the brake pedal up and rearward so i can push it down easier. In order for me to ride the bike i have to basically sit on the tank. Yes i can ride it but not to comfortable have the chrome covers that covers the power distribution and tool kit area press in the back of my thighs. I appreciate any and all help from y'all. I have included a pic of the bike(one in the back is my dads).

Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am going to see if the wife can take a picture as i am at work. From what i can see for now is a bracket and linkage. Im just worried that if i find an oem linkage and bracket ill have to get new foot rests. Let me see if i can get a pic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for y'all help guys!! Heres what the lady sent me. From what i can now see on diagrams its just the bracket. Theoretically i could get a new linkage rod and drill new holes in the existing bracket which would move the gear controller rearward. Where im stumped is the break pedal. it looks like its bolted to that portion of the frame and i would have to change the whole pedal to move it rearward. Maybe i cant see the back of it and the link that is controlled has another linkage that goes to the rod. Again thanks for yalls help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
They are stock mounts bolted to the extensions. Brake pedal pivot is on the peg frame bracket that is now bolted to the extensions. You may need a stock brake rod if yours is a 1 piece back to the bellcrank on the frame. Some kits just had an extension that hooked to the stock brake rod. That TC kit pictured above appears to have a 1 piece brake rod. Depends on the kit you have. Still, at worst should only need the stock shifter linkage rod and the stock brake rod to change back. Possibly 1 exhaust pipe crush gasket if you have to remove the front pipe to get the bolts out.
Thank you thats the answer i was looking for. Its a one peice rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I cant tell if the pipes are for an ACE or Spirt. It is an ACE but i dont know if they share the same motor and exhaust. I cant find a brand or anything on the pipes to indicate brand. The brake rod is a single peice. The part i am concerned and cant find a pic to compare it to. It looks like it if i go back to the original linkage where does the horn go?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Horn stays there, brake rod on yours has the 8" black flat bar from the kit that comes off the pedal and goes to the oem round rod. Right behind the pipe, there's a Clevis pin setup connecting them behind the front pipe. When the extension is removed the oem rod you have will connect directly to the brake pedal once you move the pegs and mounts back. You will need an oem length shift rod. Rod should be Left Hand thread on the transmission end I believe. If you shorten the existing one, don't cut the wrong end off. (I'd buy an oem one and sell the kit complete.)
Thank you sire thats the exact answer i have been looking for. I will buy the parts next week and hopefully i can het them all.

Now i have a quick question hopefully you may be able to answer. I heard that from the factory they jet the carbs to run really lean. Now i know the bike has custom drag pipes, hypercharger and an ignition box set to 6500rpm. So in turn i know 99.9999999999% sure the carbs had to be rejeted to be tuned for all of those parts. I have not had the carbs apart to be able to tell. Now because it has all of those parts im wondering if the bike should be on 91(91 is all we have in AZ) since its been "tuned". When i got the bike the fuel pump was leaking from the pump it self so it couldnt hold pressure and was flooding the carbs. I went to the dealer and bought a new fuel pump and new spark plugs since i didnt know the condition of them. I got home swapped out the fuel pump, fuel filter and replaced ALL fuel lines. When i pulled the plugs out they were black as hell. So black i couldnt clean them up with a wire brush. Would you suggest i run 91? Right now theres seafoam in the tank since the bike sat for a year without running i know the lines had to be gunked up. When i ride and throttle 0-50% runs and pulls good when i go above 50% it seems like it falls flat on its face.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Turns out it was the carbs dirty. I was trying to find every excuse to not pull the carbs off but had to since the bike didnt run right. I pulled the lower portion off both carbs to find all jets were clogged with black stuff guessing old gas. So i cleaned all that out and put everything back together. I took it for a test ride and sure enough all good now. Feels good since it was the first time i felt the bike run correctly.


Now my issue is even if the bike is warmed up it will idle on its own for 10-15 seconds then die but fires right back up. When riding and coming up to a light i pull the clutch in and the bike dies. So now to figure that out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I can tune a efi engine no problem. i built my first engine when i was 13. Yet, i have no damn clue where the idle adjustment screws are on the carbs. I cant remember the carb when i had them off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I guess we're lucky in Phoenix. I leave to work around noon and go home around 10. The low is 45ishand high is 55ish. Thank you ill try and see if it fixes the issue. Is it possible the screws can come out of adjustment over time? I cant see how considering its a 99 and only has 7,776 on the clock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Im at work and the bike is with me. When i get home i will adjust it to see if it fixes my issue. Thank you for your help alot. I appreciate it. I took it on the freeway today and got on it to see if it possibly could clean out the carb and the min i got off the freeway and came to a stop it died(clutch in first gear in case i need to move out of the way.). Now that i know the ignition has been tuned, pipes, rejet and hypercharger would it be expected to have pops out the exhaust under deceleration?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Im on my second tank of gas wince i have owned it(3weeks). I put seafoam in the first tank to see if it could clear it up. It rained today so i just took the truck i havent had time to work on the bike. From riding it i cant tell or feel the clutch out of wack. My buddy that had a 2006 R6 rode my bike when the idea was "FLOOR IT!" to see if it would clear out the carbs.... failed. He said it felt good he liked the clutch better than his. Im just wondering if it is the idle adjustment. it does seem to idle normal but then again i cant find a video of someone just letting the bike idle normally without red lining the darn thing. When riding i have to very slightly keep on the throttle to keep the bike idling otherwise it will shut off on me at the light or even in a turn. I turned right at a light at about 3000-4000 rpm(no tach so no clue) and the bike died mid turn. I either clutch in and start it again or drop a gear and dump the clutch to get it started again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Just past sunday i cleaned the filter has a hypercharger on it. I had the k&n cleaning kit since all my cars have k&ns. My neighbor had a 99 600 he thinks its the choke. He says that its possible that i push it back in to turn it off its closing off the carb to much to idle.
 
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