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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The fan on my 2005 VLX stopped working a while ago. I was getting ready to replace the motor (after initially thinking that it was the motor - pulled the connector, grounded it to the frame, no response, etc). Just before I began to take apart the radiator to get to the fan motor I decided to try some other diagnostic things. I pulled the 2-prong connector, jumped it across the terminals, and grounded the power cable, and the fan worked.

I began backtracking with a meter (the bike is in excellent shape, and all of the wires are clean and intact) and finally got to the fuse box, where no power was getting to the fan fuse, which looked good. I changed the fuse anyway, and still no current. The other fuses were all getting power at the box, and the wire-pin connectors are getting power.

Has anyone ever had this issue? I suppose a single fuse connector in the fusebox (which looks pristine - the bike has about 2k miles - I bought it with 350, and it's all clean) can go bad, but it's somehow hard to believe? I am inclined to just replace the box (about $25). Any other suggestions?

Thanks.
 

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I would get a copy of a manual with a wiring diagram for the bike. After reviewing it I would pull the battery and start doing some continuity checks starting from the battery. When doing continuity checks make sure your meter leads are actualy touching the electrical connector at both ends of the wire and not off to the side or on the wrong side of an insulator.

Also try the tug test. Pull firmly on each wire going into the fuse box, you may find that the one to your fan isn't fully seated.

A manual can be found in the discussion forums.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Power is getting to the incoming side of the fusebox (on the "battery" side of the 2 sets of connectors). I've tried pulling and pushing the connectors, but still no joy. I guess I'll just swap the fusebox out and see if that does the trick. Thanks for the response.
 

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Most bikes have a separate or dedicated infeed wire for the fan into the fusebox with another wire that supplies power to the remaining circuits. Dunno why except from previous experience the manufacturer found that without the separate feed, problems happened. Thus the reason for the aforementioned wiring configuration (according to me of course). Perhaps the design is to counter the abrupt draw of current from the fan switching on or the fan wire is susceptible to damage and why stop the entire engine just because the fan wire is severed. At any rate, the rest of the fuses [their sockets] could have electricity even though the fan fuse had no electricity. Separate circuits so to speak. Conversely if only the fan fuse had power, and the rest of the fuses had no power, that would also NOT be abnormal. The rest of the fuses in the same fusebox are fed by the Red and Black-stripe wire. In other words, 2 of the tangle of wires routed into the fusebox are infeed wires at least for a Honda 600. Yes, I'm sure 100%.
 

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Originally Posted by shrinkwrap

Power is getting to the incoming side of the fusebox (on the "battery" side of the 2 sets of connectors).

I guess I'll just swap the fusebox out and see if that does the trick.
Didn't see the above, but if you're saying that there's power to the IN slot of the fan fuse itself, than the problem is related to the OUT wire of the same fuse slot. Anywhere along its route from the fusebox to the fan including its connection to the fan. Or, from the ground wire out of the fan along its route or at where ever the fan's ground wire terminates at its opposite end. In other words, the usual. There's not much that can go wrong with a female OEM electrical socket embedded in the fuse slot, unless, the PO messed with it. Or 'somebody' jam fitted a fuse into its slot knocking the barb on the female socket outta its locking notch thus pushing down on the fuse only causes the fuse prong to push the unlocked female socket down not lock into it for a proper connection. Before you go and buy a new fusebox, what I would do is pull (unclip) the fusebox, the black rectangular box, out of the rest of the assembly. Turn the fusebox around and pry off the BACK LID. The plastic that the fusebox is made of is flexible. The four visible slots on the back lid are the access points for releasing the locking barbs. You'd get a better idea looking at the wires from the underside of the fuse panel with the back lid removed. Just a note, but the otherwise trusty "tug test" that RichardL suggested won't work as well on a Shadow 600 fusebox since all the wires into the fusebox are zip tied together (tightly) for strain relief on the underside of the fusebox before the wires branch off to their separate slots.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Most bikes have a separate or dedicated infeed wire for the fan into the fusebox with another wire that supplies power to the remaining circuits. Dunno why except from previous experience the manufacturer found that without the separate feed, problems happened. Thus the reason for the aforementioned wiring configuration (according to me of course). Perhaps the design is to counter the abrupt draw of current from the fan switching on or the fan wire is susceptible to damage and why stop the entire engine just because the fan wire is severed. At any rate, the rest of the fuses [their sockets] could have electricity even though the fan fuse had no electricity. Separate circuits so to speak. Conversely if only the fan fuse had power, and the rest of the fuses had no power, that would also NOT be abnormal. The rest of the fuses in the same fusebox are fed by the Red and Black-stripe wire. In other words, 2 of the tangle of wires routed into the fusebox are infeed wires at least for a Honda 600. Yes, I'm sure 100%.
Thanks. I'm going to check this out.
 

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Originally Posted by shrinkwrap

Thanks. I'm going to check this out.
If you do happen to stumble upon other solutions, and if it's not too much bother bother, would you post your ideas on the fan problem. Keeping our bikes out of the dealership is our bond.
 

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The fan on my 2005 VLX stopped working a while ago. I was getting ready to replace the motor (after initially thinking that it was the motor - pulled the connector, grounded it to the frame, no response, etc). Just before I began to take apart the radiator to get to the fan motor I decided to try some other diagnostic things. I pulled the 2-prong connector, jumped it across the terminals, and grounded the power cable, and the fan worked.

I began backtracking with a meter (the bike is in excellent shape, and all of the wires are clean and intact) and finally got to the fuse box, where no power was getting to the fan fuse, which looked good. I changed the fuse anyway, and still no current. The other fuses were all getting power at the box, and the wire-pin connectors are getting power.

Has anyone ever had this issue? I suppose a single fuse connector in the fusebox (which looks pristine - the bike has about 2k miles - I bought it with 350, and it's all clean) can go bad, but it's somehow hard to believe? I am inclined to just replace the box (about $25). Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

Grounding the temp sensor to the frame/engine will not start the fan. There is a specific ground lug coming off the radiator and the rest of the radiator is isolated from that ground. Find that lug (Usuaully one of the forur bolts that mount the radiator) and ground the connector that goes on the temp sensor (bottom of the radiator) to that. If the fan comes on, then replace the temp sensor. About $50. I just had to change mine after only 3 years.
 

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I lied... I just looked at my bike. Here's what you do, pull the single lead off the temp sensor and shove a copper wire in it. Them find the bolt that attaches the fan to the radiator with a single wire coming off of it. Make sure the ignition is set to run with motor off. jump the temp sensor lead to the bolt and the fan should kick over. If it does... temp sensor bad. If it doesn't it's something else. The circuit is designed so the fan has juice all the time but no ground, when the sensor gets hot it grounds through the treads into the radiator and back to the ground. For whatever reason I tried grounding the lead through the frame and it doesn't wrk it has to go through that circuit.

Let me know how you make out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Everyone's suggestions got me thinking, so I checked the wiring diagram and tried jumping the 2 wires at the fuse box connection that completes the circuit, grounded the power cable, and the fan came on. Looks like it is the fuse box after all. As usual, the forum rocks! Thanks!

Anyone need a brand new fan motor for a VLX or other bike that it might fit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Actually, grounding the fan power cable to any place on the frame works.

I did this after also doing the following: I disconnected the fusebox, jumpered the 2 wires needed to complete the circuit, according to the wiring diagram (bypassing the fusebox), and turned the key. The fan worked, so my assumption is that the problem is the fusebox, one of which I have ordered ($25, plus $11 shipping, of course). I won't be sure, of course, until I swap the boxes; if it doesn't make a difference, I'll have to continue my diagnostic, but the only other possible cause, far as I can tell, could be the ignition switch.
 

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Originally Posted by shrinkwrap

but the only other possible cause, far as I can tell, could be the ignition switch.
I doubt it. C'mon. The soldering at the ignition switch where external wires attach to it is virtually bulletproof while the ignition switch internals are sealed tight. If you want to confirm the condition of the ignition switch, test the P-connector for the wires leading into the ignition switch. That P-connector is side-by-side the stator wire's P-connector under the bike's left side-cover. That's the purpose of P-connectors. To provide convenient proxy test points instead of having to pull the suspect device itself. You'll be looking for the connector which has a RED wire with a BLACK strip on it. Yea, I have the same bike. How did you guess. You already said that you had power at the fusebox P-connector .... which you disconnected (?) .... to jump the fan motor. That rules out a faulty ignition switch from which the fusebox P-connector derives it's electricity. The ignition switch the draw bridge operator for the battery electricity. The fusebox the middleman. The fan motor the final recipient of the electricity. In that order ruling out faulty grounds.


Actually, grounding the fan power cable to any place on the frame works.
I thought perhaps MarineCorpsFlorist stumbled upon a unique quirk to the contrary. Dunno.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So here's the final update. The problem was indeed the fusebox. Can't figure out why, since the contacts in the old box (I took it apart) are all clean, secure, and corrosion-free. Swapped the boxes (took about 30 seconds, grounded the fan power cable (BTW, at least on my VLX, grounding the cable to any metal part on the bike works), turned the key, and it worked! Finally.

If anyone needs a brand-new fan motor (opened and tested - it works - but never installed) for a great price, please PM me; it probably fits other bikes too.

Thanks to all for the advise and suggestions!
 

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I thought perhaps MarineCorpsFlorist stumbled upon a unique quirk to the contrary. Dunno.
I just went through this. Ground the single lead to the frame didn't start fan but grounding the the radiator did. I have an 07... dunno either.
 
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