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Here at get it running close enough without book spec, we do it the safe and simple way. We rather let about 45 dollars of gas flow out the 'season screw' at the bottom of the flow bowl. About a folded up square of one paper towel will hold way-way less than 50 bucks, I'm just saying that cost would triple the waste times two carbs, so when I say liquid, we're going for the big boy and use water for float measurement, and that water waste will feed 36k starving fill in the blanks, where was I?

1. However bungeed or booked, stabilize the carb bank so it sits in the same angle as if on the bike.
2. Drill out a water bottle cap top, so it's tight around the banks hose for fuel. Fill with water. To feed the float bowl, bottle upright in the vertical, just crack the cap open, then close.
3. Looking at the top of the carbs top flat line, this is where the bowl is off, but meets there together, that is your guide line.
4. The float is going to sit pretty much holding the 'float level with the top line.' Now look at the needle and see where it's at the 'static horizontal' of the float to top line of the carb flat.
5. The push up or the drop down is where that float horizontal tells you how close or how off the tang is.
6. As stated, who cares if it's spring or no spring, the closing of that needle is so soft a close, how much pressure is the float pushing on it? That's like setting up a set of tapered or roller bearing is get the knock out short of bind? Not even close. It's that soft a close, don't even think of pushing on it any stronger. Where is the float at horizontal? You could almost see the fuel etching level to go by and line that up.
7. By hand hole at float level, needle on the raggedge of you holding it softly against that pin, someone opens and closes the bottle cap. Better and two person job.
8. Drop the bowl from horizontal, water should flow out. Return to horizontal float level stops. It's dialed. No tang tampering needed.
9. Install the float bowls. Fill with the loose cap feeding it and the bubbling draw from the cap should stop as in filling the bowls. The wait for the overflow of the float level out the bottom tube or bottle. The slight squeeze if you want, being the cap is closed, so you more load it but don't. More like force a little in.
10. Bottle is not upright, but more what is left in the fuel line does not drain with the test of seeing both bowls have the same amount of level. Captured with a cut down drinking bottle under the bowl. Magic mark the one level. Toss or back in the remote bottle again. Because you'll do it twice to compensate for the first draw and whatever followed out of the man fuel line, then switch. This tells you the liquid vacuum lock or flowed out some. Both excess match, shows good.
11. Pull the bowls, brake clean or air blow the jets out, dry the bowl. Drag the float tool under the float and carb bank flat. Lift the bottle vertical. Confirm.
12. With season screw open, prime to start. This empties the cross or T lines between carbs. Jets were blown out of water. Close screws. Start bike.
 

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Ben did mention he was kicked out of several other forum’s, but I’m trying to understand why 🤔……………………..Oh never mind
 

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The leeway is for spanky to recognize I'm strictly thread title driven. It's not about a specific book spec when you have this in the back pocket, you don't need any book for any carb bike...... but no, I get spanked, the tissues fly out the box, crying about the same subject but in the generic.

As you can tell, I answer only what I have experience with, select threads I know a little about, and is not specific to the bike, but is more the generic walkup to any bike of a different name, the parts are going to be the same 'cheap sunglasses.' 😎

But you just don't see it as I see it. Hey you shemosisknows a thing or two, I need a pit crew. Do I say sure, no problem, or say, do you have the shop manual to the bike? WATT happens if it doesn't start?

Generic my friends, pull over and fix your friends ride, where is the book? Weedunt need no stinking book.
 

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I would request that forum members consider and then follow through with using respect as a basic foundation when posting on this site. There is an ever-increasing volume of sniping, trading insults, or just general dumb-assery in what is being posted in a self-rationalizing "I'm just being me" bullcrap excuse manner that I am getting tired of it. It increases my workload, detracts from the overall integrity of this board, and, simply put, is not needed. If self-restraint cannot be exercised, it puts me in the position of leveling a response that will restore equilibrium, and no, I will not be issuing warnings; I will be taking action.
 
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