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I’m back on the forum after having some trouble logging in. It’s almost time to put my bike away for the winter, and I don’t know if I should change or drain the fluids in the bike( gas ,oil). Could someone please let me know what would be the best thing to do, being that I don’t have a garage, just a cover for it, thank you in advance.
 

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1995 VT1100C2
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. Honda recommends changing the oil and filter and I do that usually as my once a year oil change. Since I am changing the oil and filter I usually do final drive but its not required.
. Buy a fuel stabilizer such as Sta-bil and put the required amount in the tank then fill the tank as much as possible and ride home.. Sta-bil helps keep the fuel within spec and filling the tank keeps condensation out. I fill with PON 91 E10 from a Top Tier station. I use the PON 91 because when octane drops a bit the fuel is still within spec. I use E10 because it will absorb any moisture. I use Top Tier because better additive package. (ant-oxidants).
. Remove the battery or use a Smartcharger or disconnect the negative lead.
. Wash and wax. Cover should be breathable ie not a plastic tarp.
. If your area is prone to mice or small animals, many people insert something in exhaust pipes but I have not had a problem.
Honda recommends fogging the cylinders but I never have. I have heard some people lift the bike off the tires but no need.

G.
 

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What kind of Winter are we talking about here?

If I left my bike out over a Wisconsin winter, it would barely be visible by the end of January!

I always change the Oil and Filter .

Top off the gas with Non-Ethanol Fuel.

Add Sea Foam and or some type of fuel stabilizer.

I can`t get the tire off the concrete, so I lay down a sheet of styrofoam, cover it with a sheet of old plywood, then ride the bike on top.

Lay a few mouse traps under it, and a few shallow lids filled with PINE SOL. (Mice hate the smell of PINE SOL)

I cover mine with a old 100%cotton sheet.

I take the battery out, and keep it in my basement on a BatteryTender.

If you live in a climate that gets heavy snow and below zero temps, I`d get your tires off the ground, and cover it in a way that the snow won`t bury it and freeze the tires to the ground. And, bring the battery inside, and keep it on a BatteryTender.

291243
 

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Don't know if any of you have checked out this recent test of fuel stabilizers...

FortNine Fuel Stabilizer Test
I enjoy Ryans videos and have watched most. The reviews are reasonably accurate and not too biased. The problems with this one include: a conclusion regarding E10 without doing any investigation or comparison (at 7:40). Next a huge assumption on what is evaporating. Third, his testing method: a small jar with a huge opening where a lid should be, with 100mL fuel, is not representative of real world conditions. My tank holds 15000 mL of fuel ie 300 times his sample. I also close the fuel cap. Not sure why he does not design his test to be closer to real world recommendations but perhaps it is more entertaining his way.

A truer test would be to measure octane loss over a 6 month period. A PON 87 may lose enough octane during long storage to be out of spec ie under PON 86, so what I do is for my storage fill I use PON 91.
 

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Which ethanol free fuel would you recommend? Vp ethanol free cycle fuel or some at Lowe’s which are 2 stroke and 4 stroke engine fuels. Would love some feedback on this? And what oil fir oil change would you recommend, please be specific, thank you.
 

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Here is a site to find Ethanol free gas near you.
And you can't go wrong with Honda GN-4 oils.

 

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... Vp ethanol free cycle fuel or some at Lowe’s which are 2 stroke and 4 stroke engine fuels....
I had to look this up but at $25 for 3.2L for the Lowes this would cost $125 to fill my tank. At least the VP fuel is just $70 per tank but are you kidding?
 

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Those fuels are more expensive than straight Coleman fuel which will last about 10 years.
 

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06' VT1100C/99' GL1500C Valkyrie
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Anyway, ethanol free gasoline @ 90 octane, and SuperTech fuel additive from Walmart is what I've used four seasons @ 5 mos. long. With Stabil the bikes were very sluggish starting and running when spring rolls around. I turn on my petcock about once month to keep the bowls filled and Tender the battery about 3x. My gurl' lives in a insulated above freezing environment year around.

The "Fort Nine" review definitely has reinforced my method I'm using now.

I only change oil on schedule @ 5000 mi. Logic behind this is a little skewed as I have one cage that sits out in the weather all year round. Why do we think a watercooled bike is any different? Never have I seen any vehicle factory recommendation to do this but I'm not saying there hasn't been either.
 

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That’s just it. Ryan is usually on the straight and level, and if he got TOO involved, fewer would watch his videos (ala ‘Engineering Explained’). So there should have been reasons to his madness. Others have done comparisons to E10, and he was probably going from their findings. It’s also easier for us to take, since most of our 91 is ethanol-free. A bit harder to find in the US for a decent price...
 

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Hm... Did I understand right that it is better if change the oil and filters of my Honda before I stop it because of upcoming winter? :unsure:
We do not have ethanol free fuel :( I use for my Honda 95 unleaded fuel.
 

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Hm... Did I understand right that it is better if change the oil and filters of my Honda before I stop it because of upcoming winter? :unsure:
We do not have ethanol free fuel :( I use for my Honda 95 unleaded fuel.
Honda recommends an oil and filter change at 8k miles or about 12k km and recommends changing the oil for storage so if I am not much over 12k km, I just combine the two and do a once a year oil/filter change when ready for storage. Do not worry about E10 ethanol fuel. Its probably better for your engine and I have been using since 1988. For storage, fill with a higher octane rating and use a fuel stabilzer. since I am changing the oil, I also change the final drive gear oil although not needed but its simple and quick.
 
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