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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am hearing a rubbing noise from front wheel, I believe the bearings need replacing.
1) I replace bearings on motors at work, so anyone see a problem with using a long drift or punch to tap them out, instead of buying the Honda recommended tools?
2) You think it'll be ok for a week or so until I can get to it? I can feel no wobble of front wheel and it rides/handles fine. Ever heard of catastrophic bearing failure that is sudden?
3) Can I remove the dust and oil seals without damaging them if I am careful, so all I need to order is the bearings?

Thanks in advance. Dan
 

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It could simply be a warped brake disc. Honda's single piece, non-floating type are prone to this. Jack and hand spin to confirm disc warp yea or nay. Also, after taking a several mile ride, bad bearings should generate heat which you can feel at the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Dave. I got the front wheel off the ground, spun wheel, and hear rubbing noise...not bad, it is a light rubbing. It is not louder at any one position, a constant light rub, so it's not a warped rotor.
I then removed the caliper, and half the noise went away, so the brake was lightly dragging, but not much because the wheel easily spins and freewheels. Without the caliper, a faint rub is heard. There is no play and it doesn't sound like any grinding going on.
Are front wheels completely silent? If not, maybe I was concerned for no reason?
I can swear that it is louder when the bike's weight is on the wheel and I am coasting with clutch in.
I may just replace bearings for peace of mind.
Thanks, Dan
 

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Yup, sounds like you are due. There are some things I will let slide on a bike, a front wheel issue is not one of them. If someone has a pressure packer, you might force grease into it and look at what comes out. Silver grease is bad.....very, very bad. Probably best to just bite the bullet and change them out.
 

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It could simply be a warped brake disc. Honda's single piece, non-floating type are prone to this. Jack and hand spin to confirm disc warp yea or nay. Also, after taking a several mile ride, bad bearings should generate heat which you can feel at the axle.
^This.

But to answer your questions on the wheel bearings, if you are replacing them then you would be better off replacing the dust seals as well for the cost. Bearings are $14.35 each and the dust seals are $5.01 each (from mrcycles.com).

MrCycles Honda Kawasaki Polaris Suzuki Yamaha Motorcycles ATVS Scooters Utility Vehicles

If you find it is a warped rotor, then ditch the stock POS and get a EBC rotor (have one on my Tourer). DO NOT buy a used rotor - you'll more than likely get one that is warped or below thickness if you do.

New ones are pricey, no doubt, but well worth the cost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not the rotor. It is possible it is the speedo cable, I am trying to figger out how to get the top end off without pulling the windshield, but I may have to remove the shield.
If I lube the cable, and noise is still there, I'll get the bearings and dust seals.
Thanks, Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think I jumped the gun. Not having the time to pull windshield so I can get to speedo cable, I pulled the bottom end of cable off, squirted with wd40. Ran to town and back. After a few miles, it got quiet. And there is absolutely no heat at all from the bearings, the axles and wheel are dead cold. So I think I need to lube the cable better and will be fine with that. Thanks for the help.
Dan
 

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I think I jumped the gun. Not having the time to pull windshield so I can get to speedo cable, I pulled the bottom end of cable off, squirted with wd40. Ran to town and back. After a few miles, it got quiet. And there is absolutely no heat at all from the bearings, the axles and wheel are dead cold. So I think I need to lube the cable better and will be fine with that. Thanks for the help.
Dan
Dan - WD40 will clear all the lube out of the cable. Better off getting some proper cable lube for that post haste....
 
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