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1995 VT1100C2
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4,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today, while checking the torque spec for my 1995 VT1100C2 front brake pad pin, I ventured down the manual a bit further and was surprised that the front caliper installation instructions: "Install and tighten new caliper mounting bolts" . Wow 25 years later I find out the bolts are supposed to be replaced? In my defense everywhere else in the manual when a part must not be used again there is a "NEW" icon so you know to replace but the caliper mounting bolts don't have that icon and yet the sealing washers do.

Does anyone actually use new bolts? Should I get new ones?

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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16,512 Posts
I don't.
The factory many times puts a sealer or thread lock compound on the threads for safety, and they don't want them to fall out. Usually you can just put them back in then torque them, and they are fine .
OR put some blue LockTite on them for assurance.
If they are high torque stretch bolts then they would be better replaced.
 

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2005 Honda Sabre 1100
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127 Posts
I can’t think of any reason these bolts would be stretch bolts that need to be replaced. I would just put some thread lock on them and call it a day. My Subaru head bolts have been reused even though they say to replace them (in order to get even pressure across the surface.)
 

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2007 VT750DC Spirit “chopper”
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1,153 Posts
Well, I didn’t think TTY fasteners would be used in a braking system but GM does apparently use torque to yield bolts on some of their brake systems... so I guess it’s possible they’re actually TTY bolts. IMO in this case it’s probably more legal “cover your ass” speak so if there happens to be a failure after brake works is performed then liability goes to the owner or whoever repaired the system without replacing the bolts.

Edit: I went and checked the 750 manual as well and I’ll be damned page 15-1 states the caliper mounting bolts are designated ALOC single use “replace with new one”. ALOC means there is thread lock already applied to the threads when new, so assuming you use some blue loctite when you use the old bolts again it should be fine. I’ve had my caliper off half a dozen times and I just popped a bolt out to check if they were TTY bolts and they do not appear to be. Throw some blue on there and torque em to spec, it’ll be fine.
 

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1999 Shadow 750 ACE VT750CD3 Modified
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3,804 Posts
Add me to the list of re-users with blue Loctite.
I know Honda has been known to use low grade fasteners, but I can't see them doing it on brakes and in my case of the 750 ACE it is 22ft-lbs of torque, which should be far away from yield (Hopefully).
 

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1995 VT1100C2
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4,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Edit: I went and checked the 750 manual as well and I’ll be damned page 15-1 states the caliper mounting bolts are designated ALOC single use “replace with new one”. ALOC means there is thread lock already applied
After a bit more research I found a diagram of the bolt and it looks like a little locking agent on 3 threads. This is my 4th or 5th set of brakes so after 25 years I might just order new bolts for next time and consider the $5 well spent !!

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1995 VT1100C2
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4,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Finished my front brake replacement. Very simple and quick. A few suggestions:
Remove the caliper. The manual states you leave the caliper in place and push the caliper body in, to get the pistons more open. No Way! Also its more difficult to insert the pads with the caliper in place.
It is much easier to just remove the 2 12 mm bolts and remove the caliper and use a C-Clamp or screw driver on the old pads to open the pistons. I would be concerned about using a screw driver on the caliper in place because you may scratch the disk (rotor). I used a touch of blue loctite on the caliper bolts and torqued to spec. Total job is about 1/2 hour.
 

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1999 Shadow 750 ACE VT750CD3 Modified
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3,804 Posts
It seems like the Service Manual treats the pad replacement like feeding a Pez dispenser rather than a
maintenance opportunity. I always clean off the boots of brake dust before pushing the pistons back in.
Then clean and lube as necessary, also clean the rotor before installing new pads with brake clean and a scotch-brite pad.
 

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2001 Shadow Spirit VT1100C
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11 Posts
How often is it that the disk needs turning or refinishing on these front pad changes? In other words, I'm about to do the same job for the first time, should I be inspecting the disk in any way? What's typical here?
 

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1995 VT1100C2
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4,054 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
How often is it that the disk needs turning or refinishing on these front pad changes? In other words, I'm about to do the same job for the first time, should I be inspecting the disk in any way? What's typical here?
That depends on whether you have run the pads down to metal. If you have not then your disks should last forever. The spec for my VT1100C2 front disk is 5.8 mm with a service limit of 5.0mm. My bike is 26 years old and there is a slight ridge on the outside of the disk so I measured and got 5.4 so good for another 25 years.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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16,512 Posts
They will get fine grooves from normal wear but not to worry about, No need to replace unless you feel a pulsation from a badly warped rotor .
 

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2001 Shadow Spirit VT1100C
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11 Posts
Thanks, guys. I'm rebuilding the caliper, I suspect, as I'm seeing leaking brake fluid. Nice to know that im not going to have to do the rotor too (it looks fine).
 
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