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Discussion Starter #1
So I followed the manual, but when I tighten the bolt at the bottom, the forks stay compressed, until I loosen the bolt again. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I put the plastic spacer in the bottom of the inner tube, and slid that into the outer tube. From there, I dropped in the piston with the rebound spring. I put the spring and spacer in to stop the piston from spinning. Then there is a pop as the spacer settles. Once the bolt is snug, I removed the spring and spacer. Unfortunately, the fork stays retracted.
 

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Edit: any chance one of the bushings is sliding out of place and wedging? that could be the pop you're hearing. If they get too worn, they can ride up over each other.


Should be: The damper rod with the short spring on it goes into the inner tube and sticking out the bottom and the aluminum? piece goes on over the end of the damper rod. put the main spring, spacer and top cap in to put tension on the damper, slide the lower leg on then tighten the allen head in the bottom, making sure it has the copper seal on it. May have to hold it upside down to keep the piece on the bottom of the damper rod. I use one of those Workmate things. Once damper rod is tight, turn over remove spring and install seals, fill to proper level and replace spring.

Typical fork blow-up, shop manual shows the relationship better.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
So this is exactly how I reinstalled it. Piece 11 seems to get jammed in the bottom of 5. Now, I thought I didn't assemble the first one right, so I took off the other fork, and tried reassembling it, and it does the same thing. Piece 15 gets stuck in piece 22, not allowing the inner fork to slide up and down. It locks it in place. When I go to tighten piece 25 to piece 15, I hear a loud pop from piece 11 as it gets set into the groove on piece 5. From there, it doesn't want to come out. Also, one end is tapered while the other is not. Which side goes out?
 

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piece 11 shouldn't be in the bottom of 5. You drop 15 with 6 on it down in 5 so the small end comes out the bottom of 5, then put 11 on the end of 15 and slide the lower leg 10 or 22 onto the bottom of 5. I put the main spring in and the top cap on to put tension on 15 so I can tighten the bolt #25. Older models may have had a hex in the top of 15 so you could use their tool or weld a nut on a long rod to hold 15
 

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Also, tapered end of 11 up, 11 should end up sitting flat in the bottom of the lower leg 10 or 22

Edit: I've also had the bushings 8 and 9 wear to the point one rode up inside the other on dis-assembly to where it jammed the slider instead of pulling the bushings out when dis-assembling.. (thought I was going to have to buy a new fork leg assembly for a while,,,)
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thank you, that is what I did. It sits in the groove between 5 and 10/22. I do not recall which end the taper went, however. So I tighten the hex head down snug, and the shock will not retract. Piece 15 gets locked into place, and doesn't allow for any travel, whatsoever. There is also a loud pop as 11 gets jammed inside of piece 5, at the end of piece 15. So why would piece 15 not be moving freely? Piece 6 should stop it from getting wedged, right?
 

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Ok I think I may know what's going on. I did the same thing at first. # 15 along with spring # 6 go inside of # 5 first so that #15 sticks out the end of #5. Then #11 goes on the pointed end of #15. Then slide the entire assy into tube #22 and hold it all together with bolt #25. I think you're putting #11 onto #15 before sliding it into #5 which would prevent anything moving after the bolt #25 is tightened. I did the same thing. Took me awhile to figure it out. PM me if you like I'll go over it step by step with ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You are right. It was different in the Vulcan only in that the piston need to come out of the inner tube. I was leaving it flush. Once I got that out, it worked like a charm. Thanks for your help man. It seems like the back brake is a little weak, or weaker than I am used to. I haven’t looked at it too much but is there an adjustment nut on the drum shaft? If so, how tight do you set it?
 

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You can set the pedal height up a bit if you want with a bolt at the pedal, and on the rear there is a nut to tighten the lever to the shoe action. Make sure it is not rubbing when the wheel spins.
 

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I don't know much about the 500 but if it's anything like my spirit or my wife's VLX the only adjustment is at the lever on the drum. I like mine set for very little movement. I don't think the pedal moves more than an inch. I have noticed the rod from the pedal to the bell crank will flex the harder you step on it.
 
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