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Discussion Starter #1
I bought 2 sets of led signals (front/rear) that are 2 wire. Rears are on, worked fine prior to me removing the front ones that are 3 wire.

I put new fronts on. I can’t get them to work. both front and rears. Can I get around the 3rd wire in front which is always hot For both front left, right.

So for instance. Front right light blue(signal) goes to new red, green (ground) which goes to new black. The light blu & wht is always hot making the turn signal always on. if I am correct.

i don’t remember what wire colors are for front left. I know there is orange & wht, obviously green(ground).

Or. Do I have to have the 3rd wire in order for everything to work. Bc my thinking is that 3rd wire is always hot which feeds the signal. If there is no constant hot feeding the signal then it wouldn’t work. I thinking it right?
 

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Usually front LED signal is dual colour, white/amber hence the 3rd wire.
It should work with only the 2 wires.
Try inverting the wires as LED are polarity sensitive.
Assuming you have used the load adaptor or a new relay for LED bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Usually front LED signal is dual colour, white/amber hence the 3rd wire.
It should work with only the 2 wires.
Try inverting the wires as LED are polarity sensitive.
Assuming you have used the load adaptor or a new relay for LED bulbs.
I forgot to mention that. I do have a new relay to prevent hyper flash. Also forgot to mention is that if I took my old signals(3wire) hooked them up. Everything works normal. So I am missing something here. I just can’t figure it out
 

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The oem setup has run lights and turn signal lights in the front only. It also counts on the working side turn signal lights to feed back through the indicator bulb and the non-working bulb filament to ground, The LEDs won't feed back. Fix it by adding 2 diodes to the indicator lamp wires, silver end to the indicator. Tie both to one side of the indicator and ground the other side of the indicator. this prevents them cross feeding and allows the indicator to work.

standard 1N4002 or 4004 from electronics store should be fine, pretty much any diode rated for 12v or more and approx 1 watt.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
that’s what I thought. Thank you.

The oem setup has run lights and turn signal lights in the front only. It also counts on the working side turn signal lights to feed back through the indicator bulb and the non-working bulb filament to ground, The LEDs won't feed back. Fix it by adding 2 diodes to the indicator lamp wires, silver end to the indicator. Tie both to one side of the indicator and ground the other side of the indicator. this prevents them cross feeding and allows the indicator to work.

standard 1N4002 or 4004 from electronics store should be fine, pretty much any diode rated for 12v or more and approx 1 watt.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok. This getting really frustrating. I got in 3 wire front led turn signal in. NOTHING!!. I have no lights to any signals. I did. When I started this. when I had led on the back, oem lights in front everything worked. As soon as I swapped out the front ones. that's when everything went to the crapper. I swapped out relay for led. I am do everything by way it should(color wires). this is what I bought. Why is this so frustrating????

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08868BNP7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JCXMGKS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073J82PNF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Somewhere along the way you blew a fuse. correct that and see where you are. For troubleshooting purposes, remove the indicator bulb for now if you have not added the diodes yet. That should (see below) keep the sides separate for troubleshooting. And keep in mind LED's ARE "Light Emitting Diodes"... Diodes act as one-way check valves, allowing current to flow only 1 direction. Test your lights by touching the wires on the battery posts to verify they work and that the wires are labeled correctly.

Also note: some cheaper aftermarket lights simply add a resistor into the run wire path to dim them for run lights and the turn signal may simply bypass the resistor and light the same LEDs brighter. This can cause issues with the turn signal bleeding back across thru the run path and blinking both sides. Adding a diode into each light's turn signal input wire should fix this if you experience it. Most all diodes have a silver band on one end, that is the negative/ground/downstream side which would go towards the turn signal. Diodes are less than a dollar at places like digikey.com

Bottom line:

Get power back
Verify lights are good
remove indicator bulb
connect lights and test
add diodes to indicator and ground other side, test
add diodes to turn signal inputs if necessary.
 

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Also note: If you are going to convert the rear to 3 wire run and turn, you will need to tap in to the left and right front run wires after the turn signal switch as the ts switch kills the run light on the blinking side; see the switch function schematic on the wiring diagram...

All this assumes you are working on something like a shadow 750 ace, though I believe the other shadows are the same or similar as far as the turn signal wiring.
 

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There should be no constant hot wire in the turn signal circuit.
The running lights wires may look that way, but they have to be switched off when the turn signal is blinking in the normal factory circuit. So they have to go to the turn signal switch also as a control for them.

Disconnect the new lights and do a "bench test" with jumper leads from the battery even if they are mounted on the bike.
Connect the ground and then test each wire to the running light and then the turn light.
See if you can PROVE that the lights will work. THEN re connect in the proper color scheme.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Also note: If you are going to convert the rear to 3 wire run and turn, you will need to tap in to the left and right front run wires after the turn signal switch as the ts switch kills the run light on the blinking side; see the switch function schematic on the wiring diagram...

All this assumes you are working on something like a shadow 750 ace, though I believe the other shadows are the same or similar as far as the turn signal wiring.
rear are staying 2 wire. I am sorry. I forgot in my frustration I failed to say it’s a 03 600. If I am correct. There is no fuse for blinker.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Somewhere along the way you blew a fuse. correct that and see where you are. For troubleshooting purposes, remove the indicator bulb for now if you have not added the diodes yet. That should (see below) keep the sides separate for troubleshooting. And keep in mind LED's ARE "Light Emitting Diodes"... Diodes act as one-way check valves, allowing current to flow only 1 direction. Test your lights by touching the wires on the battery posts to verify they work and that the wires are labeled correctly.

Also note: some cheaper aftermarket lights simply add a resistor into the run wire path to dim them for run lights and the turn signal may simply bypass the resistor and light the same LEDs brighter. This can cause issues with the turn signal bleeding back across thru the run path and blinking both sides. Adding a diode into each light's turn signal input wire should fix this if you experience it. Most all diodes have a silver band on one end, that is the negative/ground/downstream side which would go towards the turn signal. Diodes are less than a dollar at places like digikey.com

Bottom line:

Get power back
Verify lights are good
remove indicator bulb
connect lights and test
add diodes to indicator and ground other side, test
add diodes to turn signal inputs if necessary.
can I get a diode from auto parts store like advance, autozone, etc... just not sure what kind, size.
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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More of an electronics supply store thing. Radio Shack, but they'd be 5x the price. Or digikey.com Or amazon an industry # 1N4002 is plenty heavy duty enough. Just search 'electronics supply store' in your area.

And there's a fuse somewhere...
 

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That link would work, but it's $15+ for two 39 cent diodes and 20 cents worth of wire.
 

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More of an electronics supply store thing. A 1N4002 or 3 or 4 is plenty heavy-duty enough Pretty much any diode rated for 12 or over and 1 amp should be plenty
 

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1n4001 is OK too, I tend to go for a bit of overkill... 1N4001 is 50v max rating, 1N4002 is 100V
 

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If you have time on your hands,and some old wall warts, you can find diodes in them that should work fine.
There are different types and sizes but even the small ones should be fine for an LED bulb.
This will isolate the indicator bulb if that is all you need to do=
 

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I should refresh more often,,, The Amazon package would be fine, You will need 2 diodes to make them work correctly with the indicator just like the KuryAkyn instructions. a bit of heat-shrink tubing and solder and a bit of wire. You "may" need 4 more diodes at the turn signal turn input wires If they want to all blink or 3 of them blink.

Might see if the auto parts store has any of these if you don't have a soldering iron

 

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Good idea Swifty, my power supply drawer is overflowing with those anyway, That is the rectifier part these Amazon diodes are meant for... Somewhere around here I have a small jar with a bunch of diodes, found the capacitor and resistor jars, seem to have mis-placed the diodes.

A regular 1200 watt hair blow dryer should work on those connectors, might need to fabricate a funnel to concentrate it.
 
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