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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've seen lots of methods to create spacers for the jack to fit my 1100 Sabre, but what are some suggestions for getting the bike up enough to get the jack plus spacers under the bike. The bike is just too low. I thought about building some small ramps to ride up but that sounds a little risky. Any tips would be appreciated.
 

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Make 3 wood blocks the height you need with 2x8's, short pieces. 1 for each wheel and 1 for the kick stand. cut the ones for the wheels at an angle to form a ramp and you can use a small piece for a stop on one or both. the one for the kick stand only needs to be about 6" x 8". 1 or 2 thicknesses should be enough.
 

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I dug a smallish hole in my backyard off in a corner. Ride over the hole stopping with the engine above the hole, slide the jack in the hole and away we go. Doesn't have to be real deep to get the needed clearance so its more like a "dip" in the yard.
 

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It helps if you can have a helper hold the bike straight up rather than having it lean on the sidestand.


Completely a side note. I position my bike directly under a part of the ceiling joist so that I can get the jack up and locked, then strap the handlebars up to the building structure. My motorcycle lift has eyelets just for that purpose, but I think it's just more secure fixing it from above, rather than to the jack itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Make 3 wood blocks the height you need with 2x8's, short pieces. 1 for each wheel and 1 for the kick stand. cut the ones for the wheels at an angle to form a ramp and you can use a small piece for a stop on one or both. the one for the kick stand only needs to be about 6" x 8". 1 or 2 thicknesses should be enough.
I was thinking this exact thing but wondered if it was a legit idea or whacky. I think I only need an extra inch a half of clearance so maybe the height of the 2x8 should do it. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I dug a smallish hole in my backyard off in a corner. Ride over the hole stopping with the engine above the hole, slide the jack in the hole and away we go. Doesn't have to be real deep to get the needed clearance so its more like a "dip" in the yard.
That's a good idea too but my back yard is all a downhill slope. But I like the concept. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It helps if you can have a helper hold the bike straight up rather than having it lean on the sidestand.


Completely a side note. I position my bike directly under a part of the ceiling joist so that I can get the jack up and locked, then strap the handlebars up to the building structure. My motorcycle lift has eyelets just for that purpose, but I think it's just more secure fixing it from above, rather than to the jack itself.
I like that plan. That could add a lot of stability easily.
 

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I roll mine onto (3 per tire) pieces of 2x4 then put another under the sidestand. Sometimes I put a piece of 3/4" plywood under the sidestand, too. FWIW, I prefer to roll the bike backward onto the wood because it means using more-powerful hamstrings and calves.

It would probably be less fuss to get a couple of pieces of 2x8 -- though that means I wouldn't be using what was laying around the wood shop. As seldom as I jack the bike up (not even every year), it would probably be too much of a pain to store the 2x8s.
 

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1-1/2" is the thickness of a 2X? (whatever you have available) cut a 45degree angle on each end of two 2X?x12" (+/- on length)
to roll the bike up onto..
IF more height is needed, add a 1X? with the same 45 degree cuts...

I`m glad I have a "drive on lift" with wheel chock/clamp
:D

Good Luck Greg
 

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Getting the Jack under the bike!? It's easy, I just lay down mwarr mwarr :p
 

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would the jack fit without the spacers needed? if so I'm guessing wider jack lift pads would help?

you can widen the lift pads to avoid hitting the engine and etc. and not use spacers. No need to have to use adapters/ spacers. And you have a more stable bike on the lift.

here is my jack after widening it to avoid hitting the engine. Works great for my harley and shadow. Note how the lift pads are now on the outside of the lifting arms and spaced out some. But I still have to pull the aero off the kickstand to slide the lift under easy.
 

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+1 on the 2x8's, I also use this to be able to slide the oil drain pan under the bike and access the drain bolt easier. 1 1/2" is all you need on the ACE.
 

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You guys seem to be making this quite complicated...

All I do is drive the bike to a metal grated bridge over a river, and stop the bike about halfway across. Then I get a helicopter to pick me up and take me upstream where I have a boat waiting with a rope ladder, a plasma cutter, and my jack. I get dropped down to the boat and float back downstream to the bridge and then climb the rope ladder to the the underside, cut open the grating and put the jack underneath.

Bob's your uncle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You guys seem to be making this quite complicated...

All I do is drive the bike to a metal grated bridge over a river, and stop the bike about halfway across. Then I get a helicopter to pick me up and take me upstream where I have a boat waiting with a rope ladder, a plasma cutter, and my jack. I get dropped down to the boat and float back downstream to the bridge and then climb the rope ladder to the the underside, cut open the grating and put the jack underneath.

Bob's your uncle.
I like this idea the best. Often the simplest idea is the best. Couple of questions. How do I carry the jack up the roap ladder and stabilize it?
What happens to the boat?
 
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