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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I have a 1984 Shadow Vt700C. It has 7/8" bars on it currently. I want to change them to 1" bars due to the upgrades that are available for that size versus 7/8". It looks like I can change everything that mounts to the bars to fit a 1" diameter. I feel like my issue is going to be here. See attachments.

Thanks
 

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....... and if your thicker handlebars step down to 7/8-inch near the grips, you'd save even more dollars. There are probably thicker handlebars that are 7/8-inch at the riser area along with the grip ends ..... but I leave that to your own imagination.
 

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Seems to me I've seen adapters out there to go from 7/8 to 1 inch bars.
 

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Take the bar mount to a machine shop and have it bored out,,,

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you everyone for all the help, I have found some 1" handlebars from a local dealer that I am going to be getting. I am having issues finding adapters that bolt to the bridge that are 7/8'' to 1''. I might have to take the bridge to a machine shop like PhantomRider64 suggested. I have looked on ebay and have only found 7/8'' to 1 1/8'' riser adapters. That being said I may have to see if those bare are available in 1 1/8".

Thanks again for all the help, input, & taking the time to read my post.
 

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You realize that if you go to 1" bars, none of the controls will fit on the bars.
I was thinking the same thing.

However, I’ve noticed people that are fixing bikes from the 80’s, are usually unreasonably and illogically cheap. I can’t understand the decision progress as to why he doesn’t just buy new bars with the right diameter. Curious to see how this turns out...
 

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He likes thicker handlebars better. If memory serves, there was a discussion that mentioned that some 1-inch handlebars taper down to 7/8-inch at the grips, probably as a marketing strategy.
 

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The suggestion to take it to a machine shop and have the riser bored to 1" is intriguing. I have a sneaking suspicion that the price to do that will far outweigh any benefits to be gained. Special fixtures to hold the part would have to be built, then more problems would surface as to how to hold the boring bar steady. Just my opinion, of course.
 

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The suggestion to take it to a machine shop and have the riser bored to 1" is intriguing. I have a sneaking suspicion that the price to do that will far outweigh any benefits to be gained. Special fixtures to hold the part would have to be built, then more problems would surface as to how to hold the boring bar steady. Just my opinion, of course.
Hopefully, if this is done, there is a spacer added between the top clamp and the triple tree during the boring process. Otherwise, it will be exactly 1" and won't clamp at all.

There must be an interesting back story to the project?

Couldn't just pick from one of these?
J&P Cycles.com 7/8 Inch Diameter
 

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I would encourage you to think some more about it. Personally I think it might be a mistake.
How many things like the clutch lever assembly and front brake lever / throttle assembly have pin holes , stuff like that.

Finding particular accessories to fit the 7/8" bars might be a hassle , but I do know that many times I've felt the same way about the 1" bars.

Price the machine shop work on the clamps , that might make the decision for you.
But @PhantomRider64 is right it may be your only way.

Make sure whoever you have do the machining knows what he is doing........might be a real bear to have to find a new clamp assembly to replace it.
 

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Hopefully, if this is done, there is a spacer added between the top clamp and the triple tree during the boring process. Otherwise, it will be exactly 1" and won't clamp at all.

There must be an interesting back story to the project?
I gather it's a me and my bike kinda thing. Anyways, the bore itself has to be 1" on the money to match the diameter of the 1" bars. It just that the halves aren't cut off at the equator, so they're not complete semi-circles. This preserves the clamping function via the gap (missing latitudes) between the two items.
 

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I gather it's a me and my bike kinda thing. Anyways, the bore itself has to be 1" on the money to match the diameter of the 1" bars. It just that the halves aren't cut off at the equator, so they're not complete semi-circles. This preserves the clamping function via the gap (missing latitudes) between the two items.
Lol. Ya... that's what I meant. I just didn't put it quite so eloquently!

Hopefully, the machine shop will do it properly and the bars will clamp securely.
 

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I gather it's a me and my bike kinda thing. Anyways, the bore itself has to be 1" on the money to match the diameter of the 1" bars. It just that the halves aren't cut off at the equator, so they're not complete semi-circles. This preserves the clamping function via the gap (missing latitudes) between the two items.
Very well said. Not that it can't be done , but whoever is doing it gotta get it.
 
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