Honda Shadow Forums banner
1 - 20 of 49 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all
Just got an 03 Sabre 1100, pickup up from older lady, paint and chrome really nice, bike in good condition
Bike has Vance and Hines 2 in 1
Took it home and gave it a once over, got the idle up to 1k, she sounds really nice and is fast,,,after the first ride at home I noticed some varnishy gas coming from the bowls, like leaking and dripped between the cylinders, I kept my eye on it and during one ride, she started popping upon decel and the idel got weak and the mixture screw on one of the carbs was missing
Took it home and pulled the carbs, fully cleaned and new gas in tank and rebuilt whatever I needed to from the kit, I just used the mixture screw and gaskets
It looks like this needle was tapered different, dunno If its a dyno jet needle, but the jets dont seem OEM either, they were 165 and 170 with 42s pilots OEM is 175 180
The one mixture screw was 4.75 turns out which is rediculus,,,I set them all to 3
Put it all back together and she fired, but the idle was a choppy and didnt sound right and much decel popping and snapping, but she was really fast and strong on throttle
the SYNC was perfect on so i didnt touch it

I noticed that the manifold boots seems to be bubbly like they were leaking air, there was some spent gas on them and when I looked I saw small bubbles, I am hoping thats my issue,,,I have new boots on order, but fear it may not solve the problem and there may be another issue with jetting or something, or maybe another leak

The bike runs fast and strong, but idle doenst sound right no matter where I put the mix screws and there is popping and snapping upon decel

ANy advice for this bike Im all ears,

TY all
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,101 Posts
Help you tune is the generic theory and steps to tuning:
1. Air screw in the book is technically called an atmospheric screw. It says to adjust if going above 3,000ft. The setting is so sensitive, it only reacts to a 25 to 50 rpm drop the ear can't hear. If no tach it took to see the drop in rpm, then the initial setting is less than 3 turns out. 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns out will drop the rpm in just that 1/4 of a turn or less to drop the rpm.
2. If air screw position is forward of the throttle slide, it's turn out will be more fuel in. Air screw before the slide is if turned out it is more air. Know where the air screw is positioned so you know who feeds what and how to turn it rich or lean.
3. Jets do not change to a leaner position than what came stock with the bike. Begin with the stock jets and step up from there.
4. A 3 jet circuit(s) (screw, mid jet, main jet) show all circuits are clean when the bike can start right up and idle on its own. Hard to tune is finding one jet circuit clogged, so poor running and can point to the carbs, it may take a cleaning if bowls are yellow or in color or shows green and is it's for sure clogged.
5. Usually it's a main jet change first. So begin to change out the main every time till it takes a mid to change it, brings the main down, etc.
6. Tuning wise, the concept is a change of air speed, rather than the fallacy concept of 'more air.' It is the same amount of air entering faster, but closes at zero, or 14.7 psi every time.
a. Every time the intake valve closes, the power stroke has the same amount of volume in the chamber as if the valve stayed open and is at zero pressure or at atmospheric pressure.
b. It's why the jets don't change if each close is the same volume no matter how fast it went in.
c. Air speed wise, the air cleaner or the air box has been eliminated, it shows all those restrictions have changed, and you can see without that friction; snaking thru channels and filter pleats, the speed of the air is less restricted, the change in speed has entered the chamber.
d. This now shows the new speed of air overrode the pullout of the fuel ratio the box or A/C had at the jet hole. This has to be wider at the jet holes to compensate. So the new AFR (air to fuel ratio) is changed with a larger jet.
e. Because the bike will mostly be ridden with less throttle opening, we don't necessarily need the mid jet changed if we can still open the throttle and have the transition opening, not bog or stumble.
f. Where the bog means no gas or lean... Where stumble is too much gas. It's somewhere in the transition. So it's chase the main with more bumps up first to eliminate the bog, not enter the stumble. Then it's time to up the mid jet if main does not clear it up.
g. The screw is the sacrificial turn in, rather than turn out. The main is dumping more gas at startup than stock. The up in jetting is to set the startup leaner then idle rich. Since the 50 rpm increment change is that small in fuel feed, it's more the initial setting to start and idle are not saturated so much. It would be turned in than turned out. The main compensates at idle/start.
7. All above was using stock jets, no needle rise at the slide. Short of a nylon sock over the aftermarket air cleaner setup, this now steps up to a tuning kit. I'm talking a selection of needle tapers, slide cuts, the fine tuning if you will. But if you can get some way to slow the air speed, bring the bog into matching the stock box and air cleaner setup the factory solved, you're golden.
8. The plug read are fresh plugs, boxes of plugs, chop and throw. Start fresh. A champion plug reader, to read down the end of the porcelain, not look at the nose of the plug. I mean, it's just blind reading from here. At this point, a few or one size up is more safe not to bother looking at the plugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK good info
I put all new plugs in and same thing, again, If I look at the boots, mostly the side with the throttle body on it, I put a bright flashlight on it and I can see tiny bubbling indicated by the blue dots in the photos on the boot,,,,is that enough to throw the AF mix off and cause popping and eratic idle?

On throttle the bike is smooth and strong, but the idle is poppy, and bubbley and make some sounds almost like its gona stall, and from decel there is afterfire, popping and banging in the exhaust, I am guessing either air leak at boot or somewhere, or perhaps something I missed in the carb and did not clean a circuit out enough,,,,,when I got the bike the idle was solid, at some point in the ride the idle changed and the popping started, I noticed no AF screw in one carb and small leaking out of the bowls,thats when I pulled everything

If it is an erratic idle issue with popping, should MJ or PJ be changed, wouldnt it be a PJ or circuit issue?

TY
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,101 Posts
I can see tiny bubbling is that enough to throw the AF mix off and cause popping and eratic idle?
It's how hard is it to starts right up and idles? Pop at the carb end, meaning, brake clean around the boots, no stall, the boil might be, the oil out the boot rubber manufacturing, rather than a leak. That head gets hot enough, the OE's rubbers are more dull looking and cured like a tire. Those more look shinny and wet. Just a guess. The spray test knows for sure it there is a leak. When it boils, then spray. Even cold as soon as it starts, spray (360°) around each boot.

But then again, have to clear a fast start and all that, is if the air entered sooner to stall, lean out. Because this leak is the first to enter, jumping over the carb, if you will.

On throttle the bike is smooth and strong, but the idle is poppy, and bubbley and make some sounds almost like its gona stall, and from decel there is afterfire
When hot everything has expanded, is on the boil, now test spray. Bike runs strong. So if you're not bringing up any kind of stumble or bog, say the jetting is close enough for seat of the pants tuning. Since the part is aftermarket, the ability to seal at its running heat, did it expand too much if the spray kills the engine? Then there is the lean on lift, a little pop back?

...popping and banging in the exhaust
Did not read the whole post, but one sentence as I go. Oh, the pop and bang is more chasing and after tune? We are at the seat of the pants, and I quote, "bike is smooth and strong," which do you want to chase? The tune is PRE fire. Why are we worrying about POST fire? Are we not tuning out the PRE of bog lean and rich sputter? We are done with the tune. If thru the carb, then we de-pop with a leak down test. This will show an intake burned, the flame front reaches out into the intake port, meets cool air and pops like thunder, like in the exhaust and that meet a blue.

Let's reverse the pop, and does not the pop in the pipe meet cold air, heading up that pipe about 9" up is the measurement on the blue scale? Gotta live with the pop on the exhaust side. You have to address the pop though, on the intake side.... if lean at the boots, if lean no air screw, if burnt valve and that other kind of pop, bang.

I am guessing either air leak at boot or somewhere, or perhaps something I missed in the carb and did not clean a circuit out enough
The 3 circuits bring on the 'smooth and strong' as one combined feed. About to idle and stall is back to the main. Smooth means extra rich. Start there. If the PJ was changed from stock, start there first. If a quarter of a turn in or out, start there first. It now becomes the art of the tune. Who of the 3 will stop the stall without affecting the smooth and strong... if not an air leak, which is the very first check to see.

So being hardly at sustained WOT all the time, more cruising most of the time, I would chase the main first. It's feeding a lot more than stock, wont be on the pipe most of the time, more for high rpm. A one at a time, write it down, one test run after the other, and one change only, not both jets at once, because you're sick of tuning.


I noticed no AF screw in one carb and small leaking out of the bowls
Might be a problem taper wise matching the OE needle. I mean, matching taper wise for ease of tune or initial turns out. There is the pop if intake side, idle wise, lean running wise with this air changing the AFR at all ranges, remember, like any circuit would.

Say the needle used is so far out to adjust it close enough, would be to stop it from coming out with a toothpick dab of E6000, so the tiny blob sticks up, but not in, to stop it from falling out. This way if it did show threads, not that it wont roll out with an adjust of the needle if need be; just pull it as it will pull all of itself off and out of the threads, and off the carb too, as the one piece of blob you put on. I was thinking grease, but the heat may melt it, but the glue is not going to melt, fall off, gas or oil is not going affect it.

If it is an erratic idle issue with popping, should MJ or PJ be changed, wouldnt it be a PJ or circuit issue?
It's back again to who are you tuning, the seat of the pants or your ear and runs like???
------

Plugs look a little wet, but dry are the threads. That's a good sign about rings, but are we talking oil out of the guides being wet and oily wet or gas wet? That's a, where is the compression and how far out of spec are we on that compression number against the book's?

With a fresh set of plugs, if not plumbers pipe taped around the spigots of the head and engine side spigot of the carb, that increase in squeeze tolerance added; might seal it up some. The PJ being stock, the MJ stepping down one, it's cleaning up that rich smoother black, to 'lean is mean'; and if seat of the pants rode away from the smooth and strong, then it is where it is, back to smooth and strong. It's unique to this pipe, this air intake setup, the compression, be it stock or not, the tune is what the bike [wants] away from stock.
 

·
Registered
1995 VT1100C2
Joined
·
4,696 Posts
Hard to tell from photos but the plugs look like carbon deposits unless they were oily. Having no A/F screw means that carb would be running rich but previously you mention you "set them all to 3" so was there a screw there and now gone?
Automotive tire Font Rectangle Circle Tree


For reference here is 1995 VT1100C2 plugs that had 24k km (15,000 miles):
Household hardware Nickel Gas Cylinder Auto part


Your boots and A/F screw need replacing (if missing). Also check the Dynojet website where you will find installation instructions for the jets and needles and check against yours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks really good info
Here is some more specific info

I just got the bike 3 days ago from an older lady, who herself got it 6mo ago from another older lady, she though she could ride it but was too much for her
I have no maitenece records regarding the bike other than "it ran great"

its in nice conditon for sure
When I got it home I brought the idel up to 1k with the screw, it sounded really good with NO popping or backfiring
After the first ride at home I noticed that the bottom of the bowls were a bit wet with gas and the boots were wet as well almost like it has been dripping for some time, the carb on right mix screw was gone and the other screw was set to 4.75 turns

I pulled the carbs, full cleaning, and replaced the other mix screw and used a new bowl gaskets, the jets and needles may have been swapped with dyno jet as the needles looked tapered at the end like DJ, new plugs as of today, the sync guage I used was spot on even

The symptoms are as of now: bike starts right up but the idle is not right, erratic, poppy and acts at like like it hiccups but doesnt stall
on throttle is fast and smooth, no bog, no hesitation, no surging, just really strong and smooth, but decel will get banging and popping

None of this was happening when I brought the bike home, in the middle of a ride the idle got weak and the popping started, Im guessing the Mix screw popped out

In no case should I see "bubbles" on the boot correct? even if the block is heating to 280F, could it be that it just heating and boiling the gas on the boot and there are no leaks?, Ill be spraying carb cleaner on it later to see if anything changes on idle

But the the mix screw are 4 turns out now and frankly no bike should have these screw that far out, perhaps the Idle circuit is dirty and I need to clean again, or a vaccum leak somewhere I missed
Im happy the bike rips strong but the idle and popping are still something I need to work out for sure becasue it NOT correct

TY guys, I really dig this bike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
838 Posts
1) I just got the bike 3 days ago from an older lady, who herself got it 6mo ago from another older lady, she though she could ride it but was too much for her

2) I pulled the carbs, full cleaning, and replaced the other mix screw

3) The symptoms are as of now: bike starts right up but the idle is not right, erratic, poppy and acts at like like it hiccups but doesnt stall

4) on throttle is fast and smooth, no bog, no hesitation, no surging, just really strong and smooth, but decel will get banging and popping

5) In no case should I see "bubbles" on the boot correct?

6) But the the mix screw are 4 turns out now and frankly no bike should have these screw that far out
Hey TDD,

1) So you are riding an old lady's bike (sorry couldn't help myself)

2) When you replaced the missing pilot screw you used pilot screw, spring, washer, sealing o-ring (in that order correct???). I do not know which kit you used to do the replacement. OEM is always the best option.

3) You have already offered up that your carb to head isolator rubber boots are cracked and weeping/leaking. You cannot establish a base condition to work against until you have corrected several of these issues with new parts. Any viable info offered up will still fall short until you establish 'base condition'.

4) Once you crank the throttle, the butterflies/throttle plates open and you are off of vacuum, eliminating vacuum controlled fueling at idle. On decel, when your banging and popping happens, the throttle has been released, the throttle plates are closed, and you are now back on vacuum controlled circuits (idle and coasting enricher). Banging and popping happens now.

5) In no instance should you see bubbling on the rubber isolator boots...none. Bubbles mean an air leak. You have to resolve that before you can troubleshoot your idle issues.

6) 4 complete turns out of the pilot screws is tooooo much and you cannot tune a bike to perfection at that setting. You have to rectify the other problems (old parts and seals leaking) before you can turn into a proper runner, and that is all there is to it.

PS: you can use E6000 all the way up to E500000 if you want to (as offered up previously) to tune your bike if that is what you want to do. I prefer to use OU812.

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,101 Posts
Pee Yes:
John-John is pulling your leg on the other name for it is Amazing Goop Glue, packaged in a smaller tube of the same Goop, called E6000. Only takes a few mends of the glue to find out how many repairs it can do. Has bailed out many a field fix, and could return the bike back on the track for some action. Oil leak addressed, fender bracket stabilized, plastic nuts and bolts backing out. I could go on.

Besides, it's not to tune your engine, it's to keep the parts from falling off or out. Wink-wink, funny boy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
HI Guys
Update
Took Her out for another ride, upon cold start it starts, then kind of stalls, do it again, give her a little gas and she stays up
Same symptoms as mentioned,,,,HOWEVER
I see with a bright flashlight on one of the boots looks like small bubbles, but I when I hit it with carb cleaner, no change at all on idel or anything, now Im second guessing air leak from boot, but Im baffleled about what looks to be bubbles in the indicated section of the boot in the prior post,,,If there was an air leak wouldnt the carb cleaner seal the deal for an indicator?

CYCLEJOHN you pretty funny

1. Yes Had to get it from an old lady, but I think Im exempt, she bought the bike and could not ride it claminng it was too fast, and they take care of their Sh!T, plus the price was great, but you cant trust ANYONE about a condition of a bike upon pruchase,,,I couldnt help myself

2. I used a rebuild kit from amazon, I did not like the guage and opening of the float seat, but I only used the bowl gaskets and the one mixture screw for sure in the order you mentioned, I wanted to stay OEM and besides the parts looked good, no need to swap

4. I am second guessing the boot leak, only becasue when I hit it with carb clean no idle change at all, the bubble puzzle me, maybe pinhole cracks?

SO with the 2 major symptoms ive mentioned, the rough idle, almost "dips" at times then recovers and the popping, are you suggesting that the idle and decel are potenial vaccum issues and not jetting? DO you think the erratic idle and the decel popping are related in any way? In any event the needle looks to be a dynojet needle and the jets for sure were 165 and 170, I could have swore I saw a K on then indicating Kehin, but not sure, either way not OEM size, but the pilots were

Typically with an 03 sabre with the vance and hines 2 in 1, what are the typical jet setting, is OEM fine or people upping both MJ and PJ?

The thing is when I got the bike The idel was clean and no popping, this all happend during a ride

Maybe this weekend more pics of needle and jets, I thinking the plan for this weekend
Pull carbs and clean again
replace boots
inspect fuel filter
verify all hoses intact and everything snug

You guys are a funny bunch, Im looking forward to resolving the issue, keep the great suggestions coming

TY all
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,101 Posts
1. I'm asking if the bike starts right up, yes or no?
2. I'm asking if when it starts it does idle, but then stalls, yes or no?
3. I'm asking if you need choke when hot, yes or no?
4. Now I'm asking where is the initial turnout?
5. What are you using, both aftermarket screws or one OE one AMkt?

I'll stat with 1 and so on. Bike starts right up says all passages are clear. No need to clean.
If it starts right up and idles, this too says all passages and jets are clean. No need, etc.
If no choke is needed on a hot bike, it says the 3 passages have fed the engine as per. No need, etc.
If the boots are air tight it says no leak if the bike fires right up. Next is the initial turnout and where is it?
Being who knows how many times that taper in the body is damaged for every time you start there, it's going to be a problem if the bike wont respond well.

The book says the carb body is rendered useless if that machined taper is damaged. The next sentence said is to replace the body. So are we 2 and 1/2 turns out and then leave it alone? The book gives an initial turn out. Then the drop procedure starts. But you don't have the tool so set the initial so you leave it. Pop clears up, lucky you.

Starts and runs, won't idle, a blip at the lights is your future. Run cleaners with the gas. Pick your poison.

FWIW
Got to talk to a race tire rep. Says too much time under the warmers in a hot set is the highest the track temp could be is 170F at the most. Tires will never reach that temp, so don't cook past that temp or the oil comes to the surface and grease sets in, renders the tire useless. So the tree huggers have put the brakes on a rubber process, just like they did with the chroming process. So my guess is using greenhouse compliant boots, there is your skipped process moving the oil up to the surface to boil.

Wipe some when it does with a paper towel. Bubbly in a liquid state should show black on the towel. Thus the oil to the surface. Only a brawny knows for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi

1 Bike starts right up yes
2 Bike starts, idles a bit weak, give it throttle it stalls, start again, give throttle, stalls, choke enhances idle, start up again, rev throttle, put it in gear, bike takes off like a beast
3 not sure if it needs choke when hot
4 turnout for screws? they are both set to 4 now (too much)
5. I have one OEM screw and one aftermarket,,,both screw react when I turn them in idle slows

Im not sure what you mean by this

"Being who knows how many times that taper in the body is damaged for every time you start there, it's going to be a problem if the bike wont respond well.

The book says the carb body is rendered useless if that machined taper is damaged. The next sentence said is to replace the body. So are we 2 and 1/2 turns out and then leave it alone? The book gives an initial turn out. Then the drop procedure starts. But you don't have the tool so set the initial so you leave it. Pop clears up, lucky you"


Something else I noticed Where there could be an issue, but not sure, when I put the carbs back together, when I assembled the black pieces in the photo indicated by the blue arrows they were not snug against the carb body, I accidently put the mount holder in the middle groove causing it not to seat properly like in this photo here, instead mine are pushed out about 1/4 in,,,,,Im not sure if this is causing any air leaks and I did not inspect the washer around it, could this be an issue not seating tight?

I guess either way the carb has to come off to correct this issue, so im thinking, pull the carb, fully clean again, go over anything I may have missed and at least inspect the boots and possibly replace
Maybe doing this will solve the issue, or at least a nice direction
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,101 Posts
4 turnout for screws? they are both set to 4 now (too much)
Yes. Too many turns out. The average for the VT is from 2 and1/2 give or take. It also says, high altitude, 1 turn in. So there you know the 'screw in' means 'lean' to the shutting down of the fuel heading out; is a tuning clue. You know what the screw does fuel wise when the altitude rises, 1 turn in.

5. I have one OEM screw and one aftermarket,,,both screw react when I turn them in idle slows.
That says clean passages. The leaves like a rabbit when it's warms up a little says the other jets and passages are clean. Just asking about a variable of one non-matching, but the response at the screw is more what you're looking for. So between the many ranges I see, try 2 and 1/2 out.

Im not sure what you mean by this

"Being who knows how many times that taper in the body was damaged for every time you start there, it's going to be a problem if the bike wont respond well.
It's the owners before you touching that screw. The how many times someone screwed it back in, tore up the machine tapered hole. Were the adjustments made by a competent mechanic as opposed to a novice. How soft a close to zero and can they tell between a bump up against the rubber oring, or past that and collapse the tapered wall, or the machined taper. The tweaking of the brass line of the screw showing a ring impression around the brass screw taper, has to bump up against something hard to do that.

So with the initial turns out, it's not even close to squeezing the oring any farther. That's because of the next procedure covers that needle from going home and touch the tape so as not to home itself at all. But being sent to home every time another owner begins to home that needle and distorts that taper, sending the needle how many times in to start all over again?

Tearing up that taper is the warning the book is saying: because of the air flow is so critical is the warning. You can't buy a tool to reset the taper if damaged. Thus the variable of way too many counts out, knocking the taper out.

Right now, my research is limited to 1981 to 1986. The book gives an initial turn out of the 3 max to the 2.5 out for different years, models, cc, etc. Then the drop procedure starts or the needle moving in or out, is to watch a 50 rpm [or less] drop being screwed in from the initial 2.5 out. This shows a lean drop in rpm, is the screw going in, right? Then turn it out until it drops being too rich, is the turnout, right? Then turn it in till it drops, find the middle of both drops. The procedure is called an 'idle lean drop.' And then if mem serves, the middle ground is to screw it in a 1/4 or 1/2, I forget, but it's finding the middle of both drops, turn in an initial turn for the lean emission compliant standpoint. Book knows for sure. But wink-wink, if you can find the middle of a sensitive needle moving in and out on the drops, not rich, not lean, wink-wink, just a touch idling rich No need to move the needle anymore once found.

Because the taper is somewhat sensitive as you mentioned. I've observed around here that some adjustments show no change. And there I would think the bodies meet that too tight a close, too many times tight, wide goes the taper, junk is the air flow. Where I would think the incremental drop is not stable as a clean taper would be. So this is reading the carb section and has the needle's abstract saying, If you want a tune to spec, never wreck that body taper.


...are pushed out about 1/4 in,,,,,Im not sure if this is causing any air leaks and I did not inspect the washer around it, could this be an issue not seating tight?
It could be a variable missing the hose to it. It could fall out and expose the hole to more dirt. Figure it's out to atmosphere, so it could breath. And that means, for every action out that hole, debris lassos onto air going back in. And there goes the slide all scratched to hell.

I think to keep those in place is not the oring for sealing purposes, but the plastic body's ring slot call it. Something like a C type of steel locker type piece. that takes a screw to secure it onto the body to hold it all in place. Unless, unless, you use the Johnny endorsed E6000, no C-hook needed.

I guess either way the carb has to come off to correct this issue, so im thinking, pull the carb, fully clean again, go over anything I may have missed and at least inspect the boots and possibly replace
Maybe doing this will solve the issue, or at least a nice direction
No, no, and no. You have the screws way too many turns out. Let's chase the pop there by setting it to 2.5 turns out is the initial setting. You have a responding low speed screw(s). Why pull it. 3 clean circuits. Think about it. Sounds like, starts like, revs like...a clean carb and to go over WOT? That's what you're missing. And bubbles couldn't seal any better, the spray proved that.

How much more can you describe the carb to me, how clean you have those responding bodies don't seem damaged. If you know for sure they are 4 out, step up to the bike, turn the screws in 1.5 turns. Tank on, seat on, the John endorsed dab on the untanium breather hose holders, get it hot, screwdriver out of the jacket, bend down, stay within a 1/4 turn in or out is your only range.

So they are both at their initial 2.5 out, screwdriver turn 1/4 in, jump to the other carb, same 1/4 in, this leaned out the idle. Worse? Then stay there, now it's 1/2 turn out, jump to the other side, match the1/2 turn. Better? You now made 3 setting without the tach. That's sync and drop adjusted hot.
In = lean
Initial out = best of both
out = rich

CC and year? I've a spec manual, not the shop manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
HI
Great info,,,
This is a 2003 Honda Sabre VT1100C2 A
I have the manual thats talks bout the things you have stated
Ok so what im gathering from your post, at this point do not pull the carb and clean or replace the boots at this point, set the screw to 2.5 turns and see where we stand
What does have me somewhat concerned if I can clarify is the last pic which I will post again, Is in any case I need to snug up the black plastic body tight against the carb body like in the photo, I thinking I can do with without removing the carb,,,the is right against the body of carb, if air is indeed getting in at that juncture its creating a problem

I need to seat this circle piece against the carb body like in this photo, I just need to move the piece in tight and change where the support arm is holding it

I will do all these things and report all the info later today

TY for all the fine help
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,101 Posts
at this point do not pull the carb and clean or replace the boots at this point, set the screw to 2.5 turns and see where we stand
Correct. My spec book is good up to 86, but the turn outs as the years change, the turnout show 2.5 as the last year's initial setting. So yes, start with 2.5 out see what happens.


in any case I need to snug up the black plastic body tight against the carb body like in the photo
The quick and dirty is to get enough spit to circle the oring, then try to send it home deeper. Parts blowout does not show the C-hook I'm thinking of. Oring seems like the lock.


I thinking I can do with without removing the carb,,,the is right against the body of carb, if air is indeed getting in at that juncture its creating a problem
I don't think so being it looks like a source for atmosphere balancing pressures.

I need to seat this circle piece against the carb body like in this photo, I just need to move the piece in tight and change where the support arm is holding it
Remember, these are no longer available, so no stress to the plastic moving it in deeper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
HI
Update
Snuged the pieces up, set screws to 2.5 turns
Cold start bike fires up but stalls, needs choke, I live in the heat and never had a bike that needed a choke, is this bike cold blooded?

Same issues, the idle seems a little better, but popping still and erratic idle a bit,,I have included a youtube video link you can hear for yourself, notice around 25 sec and 1min the idle "dips" and make a click sound, still fast on throttle, I didnt have much more time this AM to play with it, but based upon this info and video what should I try next?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,101 Posts
I think that's about all you can do right now. The bike is not ridden at idle, right. Can remain at idle with the blip. Says; sync is not hanging [first clue] the return to idle does not drop and stall. You say it seems better. Sounds alright to me, not knowing the compression numbers and is it within spec?

I think you did as well as that bike can take a throttle response, come back down. Oil up? Gas? Close the toolbox, it's a runner.

Mine pops way more than yours and it's a 4 cylinder. Sounds like I'm making popcorn idling at a light, where the guy next to me has a 5 spot in hand, sticks it out to me and says, extra butter please.

HA! You have nothing there to worry about. Ride it, forget it. Know why it pops? Have the drop rpm meter, just don't have the special Honda low speed screw adjust 'D-head type' tool. I don't have flat screw driver type air screws. It's a CA model. I have the manual, set the initial out, was too fat. Had to pull the whole bank off again. Have a 22 empty shell, punched it so the opening looks like a D, turned each in, ran better. Said close enough, let it pop, can't do the drop.

And that is where you and I are at.

Signed,
No Drop Poppers Club
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OK TY for the info and all your time

Isnt popping and afterfire out of the exhast bad for the engine in some capacity? Isnt it indicating that something is not correct with the mixture or engine functionality?
I guess im thinking if a engine is is great tune it will sound great and these things wont happen
Maybe Im woring about it all, Im just thinking something is off that I have over looked

If anything comes to mind keep me posted, I enjoy this stuff
TY for all your time
 
1 - 20 of 49 Posts
Top