[tbakken4]

Hey everyone,

I am looking at moving up to a 1100 or larger. I found a really nice 2007 1000 for $3000 but it has almost 35000 miles on it. Now I am sure it is half decent shape, whoever owned it rode a-lot and most likely took care of their machine putting on that many miles. But if if I can get them down to $2500 i feel like it is a good deal. How long do shafts hold up, assuming the previous owner cared for his vehicle since he added extra pipes/electronics and more? Also the tires do not look to be perfect, what can I expect to pay for new tires?

2007 Honda Shadow Spirit (vt1100c), Big Bend WI - 114316122 - Cycletrader.com

 

[Harryc]

The mileage wouldn't bother me as long as the maintenance was done. If it can't be proven walk away. Shafts will last longer than the bike if they are maintained. I agree $2.5k is tops for an offer, preferably less.

 

[Mr.Wilson]

I think you meant "how long do shadows hold up?" As with most Hondas the bike may very well last longer than you want it to. I have seen on this forum some riders claim to have over 100,000 miles on their bikes and still going strong. The price tag on that bike is fair, but hey swing for the fences!!!! $2500.00 would be a good deal. As for tires, that will depend on how well you shop and what you buy. Average for replacing both tires is 350 to 400, with the shop doing all the work. Of course you may do better, or in the middle of riding season, you may not. GOOD LUCK

 

[Furball Zen]

35k on a bike isnt high...

 

[Leathel]

35K is still quite low miles for these if maintained well, a few on here have passed the 100K mark now

 

[Furball Zen]

A couple times i thought?

 

[gdb069]

I have 300,000 km on a 78 GW. No issues. My 95 VT1100C2 only has 80,000 km but no issues. Both of these I had from new but when I buy used vehicles I want to see full service records to get an indication of care. If no records that's another sign.

G.

 

[tbakken4]

What if anything should I check on the vehicle while I am going over it?

 

[Furball Zen]

I would check to see what has been done on the intake side, pipes dont require jets, but if it has a K&N or modded air box it should have been jetted. I suggest Avon tires and can be had for under $300 for both off eBay.

For the other stuff, change the oil(s) and plugs if you buy it that way you know when they were done.

 

[tbakken4]

Thanks for all the help. I called and they did not have much for service records, so Is there anything I can check on the shaft or should I avoid it all together without records? I have been looking online for how to check the fluid levels and gaskets on shafts, but surprisingly information is very limited and it seems like a lot of that work would require a substantial amount of time.

 

[Harryc]

Prior to purchase all you can do is ride it and feel for any excessive rear end vibrations, thumping or grinding while engaging a gear, or leaks. That's it. The rest needs to be done with the rear wheel off. Oil level can be checked but don't worry about it until if/when you get the bike. Seals are fine if there's no visible leaks. I think the shaft is the very least of your worries. They rarely fail.

 

[swifty2014]

I have an old 1983 750 and have some noise from the rear drive area about 40 MPH. Not sure how much is normal.
I remember some years ago being in an auto parts store and looking at all the additives on the shelf like STP, Gear Lube conditioners,etc. But one that I always remember was called "Whiney Hiney" to quiet differentials.
Then I heard stories of way back when and if a guy had a noisy diff, he could put banana peels in or some saw dust so he could trade it off.

Just remembering and laughing !

 

[tbm5690]

The shaft is the least of your worries...as long as there is fluid in the hub it is fine. Just drain and fill with fresh when you purchase. Price seems high as I paid $3700 for mine, identical bike but only had 3900 miles.

 

[Leathel]

Then I heard stories of way back when and if a guy had a noisy diff, he could put banana peels in or some saw dust so he could trade it off.

Just remembering and laughing !

We had a comedian here that did a skit on the trade in fix up, banana's in gearbox and diff, drain the engine oil to stop the leaks etc.... tried to find it but couldn't ... but did find this one (been dead a while so older cars)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tzhp3jWnpbs

 

[gdb069]

...I called and they did not have much for service records, so Is there anything I can check on the shaft or should I avoid it all together without records? I have been looking online for how to check the fluid levels and gaskets on shafts, but surprisingly information is very limited and it seems like a lot of that work would require a substantial amount of time.

Is the bike at a dealership so no records or did they DIY and no records. I don't buy used without records so perhaps they the seller can find out where it was serviced. In any case shaft is not a known problem for these bikes. Make sure engine sounds OK, All electrics work well. Make sure engine is cold and then start using full choke. Rock bike forward with front brake on and see how much you can compress forks, Check fork seals for oil, Run it and check for leaks, Check for smoke on starting. Take a look at the color of the oil though it may be new.

G.

 

[Mr.Wilson]

The shaft drive is the most dependable part of the bike. If you have a problem with your shaft drive, removal and rebuild of the diff is not hard and there are plenty of manuals out there, and shops to help you. however the shafts usually outlast the rest of the bike. But if you want to tear up a shaft drive unit, I suggest excessive powerbreaking after draining the diff fluid out, followed by parking on railroad tracks and leaving it there for 12 hours.