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I have a 2009 aero 750 and thinking about doing the hole saw mod. Most videos I've seen use a 2" saw. I was wondering if I should use a 2" or go 1 3/4". My thought is if I use a smaller saw It would leave a nice ring to tack weld the resonater back on if needed. What do you guys think?
 

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If it turns out like mine, you lose enough metal with the hole saw cut that welding the resonater back in would not be easy.

I did the mod to my 09 Spirit and the sound is pretty nice for the money. Today I switched bikes with my riding buddy for a few miles. Got to hear how it sounds from that perspective and it sounds good, especially when you are getting on it a bit.

I used a 1-7/8 bit, no lip was left for re-attaching.
 

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I put mine back in using JBWeld. It was a pain to hold steady while it setup, but it is possible.
 

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I didn't use a hole saw... I used a sawzall and cut straight through right against the back of the muffler and right through the outer weld. I had the two halves welded back together and can easily have it welded back in. One piece fell in, the other fell out, and I used my magnet to get the two inner pieces out. Took less than three minutes, TOTAL, to do both sides. My T sounds GREAT, and I'm tickled with it!!
 

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a smaller hole would make it more easy for you to have them welded back in yes...
an make it more clean look when ,and if you have them re welded
 

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Paul can you post a pic of how yours turned out? I was considering something similar.
Yes, after I get back home from vacation (Saturday afternoon or Sunday)... don't have tools to take the chrome tips off at my mom's house. If I forget please shoot me a personal message to remind me!
 

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(This is part of a copy of what I posted in another thread about the holesaw mod)

I originally did my mini holesaw mod trick as described below in #1, but then eventually did it as per #2. In either mod, you will NOT have to do any changes to the carby jetting.
But if you do the Airbox Mod and put a K&N filter in there, well you may possible have to look at the jetting, but not always. But futunately for me I don't have to worry about jetting as mine is EFI...
Doing either of these mods, and if you have the tools on hand it will only take about 10-15mins doing it yourself.

These are two ways you can do the Holesaw mod to the original exhaust.

Keeping the Original Look

#1. Keeping the original look, you can just drill the end cap of the 1" pipe (Img #1) with a 15/16" drill (or use a small holesaw if you can't find a drill that large) or maybe use a 1/2" drill and drill a few holes into the resonator end cap. I went one step further and drilled a 1/2" hole into the rear baffle, sounded very nice...


The Full Resonator Removal
#2. Or do the full holesaw mod (which I eventually did) which removes the resonator. But I would suggest that you use a 1-3/4" holes saw as this will leave a narrow piece of metal around the circumference of the muffler (Img #2) so if you at any stage wanted to replace the resonators or for what ever reason, you can as you still have a metal ring to weld them back into place...

Also If you want to go a little further the get a more distinct sound, you can also block of or restrict the cross over tube...

Hint: Before drilling with the holesaw, knock a piece of wood into the 1" pipe, drill a small hole into the centre of the wood as a guide and then when you use the holesaw, it will centralize the cut in the muffler leaving an equal piece of metal around the end of the muffler (Img #2)...
Safety Hint: Also make sure it's in 1st gear and chock the wheels to stop it rolling forward as when your drilling it is possible to push the bike of the stand.

#1... I did this first as it kept the original look of the pipes, but louder sounding more like a V-Twin but not over the top...

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.



#2...
I did this after having the first mod for about 6 months and it was louder, but again, not over the top...
Sound Clip Link to this Mod...

 
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