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I just got my springs and clitch discs in today so I'll be doing this in a couple of days.

QUESTION:

when replacing the friction discs, where does the small disc go? In th e very front? The rest are all the same size, right? I'll get a better idea when I tear it down, just wanna know what I'm working with.
 

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I hope you have a book in doing this and some proper tools. You need a good torque wrench too.
As far as the 4 degree timing advance, I doubt you are going to gain much off of that. If what I read you are doing this on 600? I do it on 1100 's because I am changing camshafts lift and timing, and higher compression pistons so I need the advancement to keep from spark knock. The 600's are at 6.5 degrees BTDC and 30 degrees at full advance.
Let us know what the thickness is of your clutch plates you are taking out and how many miles are on it. On my 1100's, which I am running 50% yes that is correct 50% more HP and 30% more torque I have yet to find my clutch plates out of specs and that is with 60k + miles on it. If mine over time slip it is because the springs got weak. I just wash mine off and re-oil them and put them back in the same order/position they were originally in.
 

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I hope you have a book in doing this and some proper tools. You need a good torque wrench too.
As far as the 4 degree timing advance, I doubt you are going to gain much off of that. If what I read you are doing this on 600? I do it on 1100 's because I am changing camshafts lift and timing, and higher compression pistons so I need the advancement to keep from spark knock. The 600's are at 6.5 degrees BTDC and 30 degrees at full advance.
Let us know what the thickness is of your clutch plates you are taking out and how many miles are on it. On my 1100's, which I am running 50% yes that is correct 50% more HP and 30% more torque I have yet to find my clutch plates out of specs and that is with 60k + miles on it. If mine over time slip it is because the springs got weak. I just wash mine off and re-oil them and put them back in the same order/position they were originally in.
My question was toward the clutch and springs part. Not advancing timing until I look further into it. I figure op would know since he was inside it. But thanks for the info on the timing.
 

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Ok...once i cracked this ******* open setting the clutch plates was pretty straight forward....just have on problem....cant seem to get my torque wrench to work.

i bought a cheap little autocraft in/lbs torque wrench figuring i could convert in\lbs to ft/lbs...108in/lbs should be 9 ft/lbs...right? anyhow...the ****** doesnt seem to want to do what its supposed to do. i set it where i need it to be, lock it, yet it just keeps on going. this is screwing me pretty bad right now as i can set the springs correctly...anyone run into this issue before, or got any tips?
 

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Discussion Starter #185
ToeCutter, sorry I don't get on here as much as I used to. First though, get a decent torque wrench. You are correct in the conversion, however 9lbs is very light and on a cheap wrench it "may" not be noticed. The last thing you want to do is over-torque! Okay now, second, go to my link (below) and download the service manual. Section 8.0 is for the clutch. Take note regarding the sequence and orientation of the clutch discs, spring and judder springs. :nerd:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/02si1jif7xj7pr8/ACE%20Manual.pdf?dl=0
 

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the ****** doesnt seem to want to do what its supposed to do. i set it where i need it to be, lock it, yet it just keeps on going.
Not to offend, but you do understand the torque wrench isn't like a ratchet that gives when it reaches its specified torque. You will feel or hear a small "Click" when you reach the specified torque setting and that's when you stop turning the the fastener.

You don't want to bear down hard on the torque wrench, use a light touch until it clicks, then stop.

If you already know all this, then just disregard.
But the first time I used a torque wrench, I made this mistake....

Good luck,
Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #187
Hehe Phil, that's why I said what I did. On some torque wrenches I've used in the past, the really light settings are so light you almost don't feel or hear the *click* - and 9 ft*lbf's is very light. :grin2:
 

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Hehe Phil, that's why I said what I did. On some torque wrenches I've used in the past, the really light settings are so light you almost don't feel or hear the *click* - and 9 ft*lbf's is very light. :grin2:
Before I bought my "Clicker" torque wrenches, I had a trusty ole' beam style torque wrench. It had a needle on a second bar that measured the torque as the main arm bended. I loved that tool!

When I first got the clickers, I could never hear the click because I pushing too hard and going past the set-point.

Yeah, with the real light settings on the clickers, you have to finesse them.
Phil
 

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Yeah, with the real light settings on the clickers, you have to finesse them.
Phil
Had the same problem Phil until I realized some of those light torque clicks were very hard to hear, but after awhile you can feel them if you pay attention. I still have my beam torque wrenches ... love em.
 

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i know how its supposed to work, but im not getting the click or anything...but like you guys were saying its so light i may not be noticing it. my wrench starts at 120 but ive been settng it on the line that is just below the 120 mark whch should be 100 in/lbs and then turn it to the 8 mark on the handle which would ake it 108 in/lbs, im assuming...unless it just wont work below 120...i dont really know. Ive never used a torque wrench at such a low setting.
 

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Discussion Starter #191
i know how its supposed to work, but im not getting the click or anything...but like you guys were saying its so light i may not be noticing it. my wrench starts at 120 but ive been settng it on the line that is just below the 120 mark whch should be 100 in/lbs and then turn it to the 8 mark on the handle which would ake it 108 in/lbs, im assuming...unless it just wont work below 120...i dont really know. Ive never used a torque wrench at such a low setting.
Not to get too far off topic, but I found this interesting:

 

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I actually stumbled across this vid earlier, very informative, however...I don't have the means to do this without spending more money.....although I have considered making my own torque wrench with this me
 

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Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and pick up a 3/8 drive inch lb torque wrench. They are not that expensive. I have a Husky 3/8 drive inch lb torque wrench and tested it against my Snap-on torque wrenches and they click on the same torque spec. Good tools and the right tool for the job=job well done.
 

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Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and pick up a 3/8 drive inch lb torque wrench. They are not that expensive. I have a Husky 3/8 drive inch lb torque wrench and tested it against my Snap-on torque wrenches and they click on the same torque spec. Good tools and the right tool for the job=job well done.
i actually swung by lowes a little while ago to see what they had and they only had ft/lbs from 20 ft/lbs and up. and they were pricey digital ones...

i tried it again just to see if i could feel a subtle click or any chagne in the ratchet and put the cover on and it feels like its engaging but i really dont want to try it until i know its right.
 

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i tried it again just to see if i could feel a subtle click or any chagne in the ratchet and put the cover on and it feels like its engaging
I'm not understanding what you mean by "change in ratchet" or "feels like its engaging."

They don't ratchet or engage. The click is just an indicator to let you know to stop applying torque.

Phil
 

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I'm not understanding what you mean by "change in ratchet" or "feels like its engaging."

They don't ratchet or engage. The click is just an indicator to let you know to stop applying torque.

Phil
to clarify, i was talking about the clutch when i said it feels like its engaging.

also..the torque wrench works that same as a ratchet wrench so, yes..it is a ratcheting tool, however im not really sure how to describe anything less than a click or a click FEELING so thats what I went with. basically, what ive been saying is..there is no CLICK what-so-ever. as stated before its more than likely due to the small amount of torque required. when I put it on a bolt on the ipg that was already torqued down, it worked when set at 9 ft/lbs, by worked, i mean CLICKED due to the ipg bolt being tighter than 9 ft/lbs. I just cant feel anything with with the torque wrench im using with such low amount of torque. my torque wrench is a 3/8s drive 120+ in/lbs. the smallest one i could find in my small little town. havent tried walmart yet, but i doubt theyd have a 1/4 drive.
 

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I have an old antique Proto inch pound torque wrench that still works. It doesn't click as much as there is a definite give feel, as the spring mechanism clicks over center at the proper torque. Like it has jumped a tooth, on a ratchet.
 

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I have an old antique Proto inch pound torque wrench that still works. It doesn't click as much as there is a definite give feel, as the spring mechanism clicks over center at the proper torque. Like it has jumped a tooth, on a ratchet.
^this is what my craftsman torque wrench did, before it croaked.
 

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Old dad, you mean your old Craftsman clicked over center and went to torque wrench heaven ?

I have an old Craftsman also for about 40 years and it still works. But that reminds me also, that the more you set the torque higher, and spring pressure on the scale, the stronger the click. So a 30 pound setting doesn't give the resistance and snap that 100 pound setting will. I thought of that since he was setting his to the very lowest it could read to get 108 in. lbs.
 
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