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Well, I stopped by my local tractor supply and picked uP a 3/8s drive 5+ ft/lb TW made by jobsmart. Tested it out at work at on a 8mm bolt on a washing machine 9 ft/lbs and it gave me a definite click after so many turns.I'm thinking this one will do the job. Seems better quality than what I picked up at advanced, for only 10 moreally bucks. Can't wait to get home and try it out.
 

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ok....so.....major problem.....i torqued the bolt down TO SPEC. i can feel the clutch working (not running, i put the case on with a few boltsjust to see)...but....on the last bolt, the ******* stud broke off with the rest of the bolt stuck inside my ******* pressure plate......you have no idea how angry i am right now. someone please tell me this ******* wil run for a little bit with three bolts until i can get a new piece.....otherwise, this has been a great waste of time. man..if i didnt have bad luck i wouldnt have any luck at all. i also notices that my exhaust on the front cyl doesnt even have a gasket....not a big deal, cheap replacement, but jesus christ, man..
 

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I just did this Saturday. First, i want to thank aced it for doing such an awesome write up. Made the whole thing painless.
I love how grabby thenew springs are. I also the the extra throttle response. My opinion on the timing mod is if your going to tear it all apart just to advance the timing, its not really worth it. However, if your already in there to change the springs, its worth doing. On a side note, someone mentioned the tooth on the trigger wheel not lining up with the ipg. I had this happen, the toothed portion was not even close to the ipg, so i just gap checked it to the non toothed portion and it worked out fine. Im not sure what it measured as i just kept adding gauges to the stack until i had the right amount.
 

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Well done Aced It! Appreciate the detail.

Didn't anyone shim their springs? If so how thick?
I'd consider a new clutch cable only because my VLX is a 2003.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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14,050 Posts
The older vt750 like ours have a spring washer instead of individual springs to replace for the clutch.
And the timing mod may not be needed since our older engines have a more aggressive advance built in at about 3500-4000 instead of the (original bike in the post) 2003 Ace 750 which is up to 5500 RPM, and 2 degrees less.

But if it has been tried I would like to see a post about the results from it. Knowledge is POWER !
 

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1999 Shadow 750 ACE VT750CD3 Modified
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Here is something to ponder over, my advance curve that seems to give the best performance based on acceleration times for my '99 VT750 ACE.
Quite a jump from the stock ignition setup.
I currently run no ethanol premium gas in it, but it seems OK with regular 10% ethanol when it is what I can get, no knocking and the plugs look fine.
 

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2007 VT750DC Spirit “chopper”
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After much thought I decided that it was time to put a 50mm diameter degree wheel on the reluctor/crank wheel and move the magnetic crank pickup from stock position to the "4 degree mod" position that is shown in most pictures. Realistically if you move the pickup as little as it's shown in all of the the pictures you've got a 2-3° timing mod at absolute best. You actually need to file the plastic housing off the back of the pickup bracket a bit to achieve 4-5° of timing advance because the plastic housing on the backside of the bracket sticks out about 1mm and interferes with the top post. Now, if you slot the holes as far as possible and file down the plastic edge on the back of the housing when you bottom out the outer plastic pickup housing to the flange on the 10mm top bolt, that is exactly 5° of advance. For what it's worth, you would need to replace the top bolt with a socket-cap style allen bolt to get more than 5° of advance and even then I think the absolute maximum is 6°.

My personal 750DC is currently set to the maximum stock top bolt advance of 5° and it runs great, for the record I only run 91 octane ethanol free and I routinely return 50mpg with my mods.
 

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I'm looking at doing a timing advance mod, I ordered the parts I need for it.
 

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If your lookin for a real nice mod, and your scoot still has the stock OEM 41T rear sprocket on it - the next time ya need rear tire or chain - go for a 38T rear sprocket - Yowsa, Wowsa - Many, including myself, consider that the Best Single mod that can be done to these Vt750's...
Literally turns a Shadow 750 Buzz Bike into a real nice Smoooooth Scoot...

Check your bike, perhaps it's all ready been done, mark one & count the teeth on the rear sprocket, if its a 41 or 42T - go for a 38T - oh yea!, changes the whole nature oif the bike.
Quick Ex:: Mine had a 41T sprocket (your VT550cdc stock has a 41T also).
At 70mph with a 41T my tach (and GearingCommander) said about 4100rpm's - changed to a 38T now 3640rpm, GearingCommander says (with OEM tire size) its a 425rpm drop in 5th gear! (and No Buzz) - Just Smooth Cruze!
I'm ~210lbs and push a 21" MS Fats windschild, and dont notice any preformance/acceleration hit at all, in fact it steps off from stop more positively, has a bit more range in each gear, and just more pleasant all round ( if your lighter all the better)

Hey, don't believe me - Nose around/check around - the 38T mod is considered the best single mod one can do to our VT750 chain drives... (and Honda finally got smart - the VT750RS came stock that way!)
 

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VT 1100c 1994
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220 Posts
Somewhere I have read that newer Shadows have different ignition components so the timing mod should not be done. Not sure if that is true. It should be safe for my 94 SC18 VT1100c, right?
So far I found just 2 or 3 posts with feedback for a VT1100, so could you please post your experience with the 4 degree mod and a VT 1100?
Many thanks,
florian
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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I don't have one but remember reading that on the vt1100 it is not recommended. It seems to be designed for the vt750.
 

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VT 1100c 1994
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So I finally finished the work and had a very short ride as it was raining, hard to tell a difference when driving slowly, probably less power in the low end? But at least no problems either, no pinging, but I had to increase idle a bit (??). I think I have normal Super 95 octane fuel.

Getting there was actually a bit of an PITA, as you have to loosen a lot of stuff. But I didn't take off the exhaust, just loosened it.

I have searched the www to find some user experience from vt 1100 owners, heres one


and here a how-to for bikes with two pulse generators/sensors

1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg 6.jpg
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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Did you set the air gap at .012 to .028" = .3 to .7 MM ?
It looks wide from the pictures.
 

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VT 1100c 1994
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hm, I checked the gap between the plastic and the primary gears when I started, it was a bit more than the thickest metal piece of my gauge. So I tried to keep that distance, but I guess it is more than 0.7 mm, must be 0,8-0,9. I am quite sure that it is the same distance, is that a problem? during the 10 mins. I was doing the testride there was no problem with the ignition. The marks of the bolts/screws show that they have about the same distance now.
 

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2007 VT750DC Spirit “chopper”
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hm, I checked the gap between the plastic and the primary gears when I started, it was a bit more than the thickest metal piece of my gauge. So I tried to keep that distance, but I guess it is more than 0.7 mm, must be 0,8-0,9. I am quite sure that it is the same distance, is that a problem? during the 10 mins. I was doing the testride there was no problem with the ignition. The marks of the bolts/screws show that they have about the same distance now.
If it works while riding at full temperature which would be the most those pieces could expand from one another I’d say you got it right, doesn’t need to be an exact air gap, as long as the teeth on the reluctor wheel aren’t further away than the width of one tooth you will be fine.
 
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VT 1100c 1994
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Had a ride today, I would say the throttle response has improved, and she feels a bit more alive on the top end, not bad at all. And in certain RPMs she's smoother. And no problems with the engine so far. Thanks for all the information here in the forum!
 
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