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Not sure how many degrees I got, but I did this to my vt1100c back in 2007. Same deal, Single pickup, elongated the holes as far as far as they would go and still leave a bolt hole. Pretty easy, absolutely made a difference. Put in a Barnett clutch and springs at that time as well.

I didn't read all the way through to see if any other vt1100 owners have done this as well. Wish I would have taken pics like you did! Yours are very good and easy to see :)
 

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I'm currently in the process of doing this mod. However I can't seem to remove the clutch cover. I tried using the crowbar and tapping on it with a hammer but no luck. It's really stuck. Any other ideas?
 

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Take a razor blade and wedge it in the gap. I then tap it with a hammer to break the seal. You can pry it out with a pair of pliers. I did this in increments all around the clutch cover. Eventually it should come off.
 

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Take a razor blade and wedge it in the gap. I then tap it with a hammer to break the seal. You can pry it out with a pair of pliers. I did this in increments all around the clutch cover. Eventually it should come off.
Thanks that did the trick! Another question: the clutch bolts were on pretty tight. I had to use some force to loosen them, causing the clutch rotor and timing rotor turning counter clockwise a few a bit. Is this harmfull in any way?

Also, the generator is not in line with a tooth as it is in the pictures on the first page. It's hard to measure the gap this way. Is it possible to turn this by hand?

 

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No problem turning the crankshaft clockwise by the bolt in the center.
I don't have the same bike or clutch set up but from what I read here, the clutch spring bolts are easy to break off if you over torque them !!!
I remember 9 foot pounds but you better check your manual.
 

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Hmm, you might be able to move the gear so it lines up. If you have a set of feeler gauges you might just have to set them parallel to the sensor and measure the gap from there to the top of the nearest gear? Hope that makes sense, kind of crude but if you can't rotate it without bumping the engine it might be your best bet. I was lucky and mine was lined right up when I popped it open.

Like swifty mentioned be careful not to snap the clutch bolts. I found when tightening if you go slowly in a cross-pattern like normal you can cinch them all down. I was probably overly cautious but only went one revolution per bolt, took a while!

EDIT -

Now that I think about it, when you modify the sensor bracket the sensor moves anyways. Left, I believe. So if your gear is just a hair left before modification, it might line right up when you are done.
 

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After doing this mod I noticed some decal pops after some testrides. Does this mod affect the a/f mixture? Make it more lean or more rich? I turned the mixture screws 1/4 more out to make it more rich but that didnt seem to work.
I used new exhaust gaskets so that doesnt seem to be the problem.
 

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I tried to read this whole thread to see if it was asked already, but my lack of patience and extreme ADHD got the better of me.

Can this be done with the vt600c?
 

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Discussion Starter #171

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I did this just recently to my VLX and I only had one Mag pick up to move. I think someone mentioned on the VLX the number of pick ups matches the number of carbs.
 

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Finally got around to this today. I had changed my rear sprocket a while ago and was getting a bit of slip at times. Hopefully this fixes it. Also did the timing mod while I had her opened up. While I had the pipes off I blocked off my crossover tube. Waiting till tomorrow to oil up and feel the results. Excellent write up, it made me a lot more comfortable about doing this.
 

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Finally got around to this today. I had changed my rear sprocket a while ago and was getting a bit of slip at times. Hopefully this fixes it. Also did the timing mod while I had her opened up. While I had the pipes off I blocked off my crossover tube. Waiting till tomorrow to oil up and feel the results. Excellent write up, it made me a lot more comfortable about doing this.
Please explain "While I had the pipes off I blocked off my crossover tube"

I will be , over the winter, doing the 4* mod, changing the clutch springs , 38t sprocket, new hard bag mounts and (Fingers crossed) paint job.
 

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I've read a few times about blocking the crossover tube. I didn't do it on my bike after debaffle, sprocket change, 4* mod etc. Not sure what difference it makes?
 

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I did the baffle punch and bored 2 1" holes at 3 and 9 o'clock. Soulds good, throaty on idle and decel , loud and strong on throttle , no popping or lack of power , so i'll stick with it there..

Anxious to see how it will run next season after the 4*, 38t and ebc springs. :)
 

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I have a 94 1100c. The clutch is on the left side. Will this work on my bike. I'm guessing it's clockwise because of it being on the oposite side? Please share a link on how to get it done if any are out there
 

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Ok I did this mod last spring (both the Barnett springs and timing mod) and first it was no big deal and second to be honest I didn't see much if any change in performance. The springs felt a little stiffer and maybe a little grabbier to begin with but after a couple of weeks of riding they seemed to return to about the same as the original feel. The timing change really did nothing in my opinion and given the chance to do over I wouldn't bother. This is just my opinion and I'm sure others will disagree.
 
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