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I DID IT!!!!!!! Filed, sprayed PB blaster, gave it a couple of hard whacks on top and got below the fender sprayed PB and whacked it there as well, and it wouldn’t budge, but then I started to move the rear seat in a rocking side to side motion and then it started to break loose!!!

thanks everyone!!! still have to replace the battery before I ride, but happy riding!!! :D
Glad you got it sorted, that must of felt good.
Happy riding to you too.
 

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Awesome that you got it removed! Lots of mechanical things feel good, but backing out a stripped head and rust seized fastener is real high up on that list.

Great work!
 

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These work pretty good. Soak it 1st then use one of these preferably in an impact or hammer drill. Local hardware should have a version.
I have the Irwin version, they really do the trick when used with a good penetrating oil and little patient waiting (y)
 

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Success! congrats GreenShadow!! I have a 1982 cj7 that has it's fair share of crust, its amazing how creative you can get with a seized or broken bolt and feels so good when you conquer it!
 

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Good Job, and remember do not try to reuse that bolt, order a new one.
 

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Everyone's recommendations here were pretty dang good. Looks like I came late to the party.

New to this forum but an avid restorationist of classic vehicles up here in the rust belt of Minnesota. While I've tried nearly every break-bond product known to man in an attempt to remove rusty bolts. ALL have failed. Now to share 1 secret of the trade that very few know about or have tried when working with rust:

Rust is iron oxide that is formed on iron or steel by oxidation (especially in the presence of moisture. Well believe it or not the best break bond of rust is to reactivate the oxidation process.. The easiest way to do this is with water - what? - yep, water. If you've already saturated with PB, Kroil, or whatever joke of anti-seize agent; go ahead and apply some de-greaser and clean it off as best you can. If you haven't already wasted time with those, then all you do is saturate your bolt and surfaces with good ol' H2O. Next, walk away for 10 minutes and do whatever it is you do with 10 minutes of free-time. Last, take a punch and hammer and give'er "non-damaging" strike on the top or side of the bolt whichever is easiest. Surprisingly enough the rust at the threads will now be broken and you'll probably head back to this thread to give an old thumbs up. All the best guys.
 

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^^^^^^

I'd say I like this "outside the box" thinnen'. (y) Clean the area around the fender bolt and make a duct tape vessel around it and soak.
 
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