[Rembrandt]

Hi, relatively new to the Shadow and a couple of dumb questions. We have a wet clutch right? Because I'm looking to buy hypoid gear oil online and of the three brands and types available, only one does not say not recommended for wet clutch bikes. The one without this proviso is Bel-Ray Gear Saver Hypoid Gear Oil...80W90 would be the correct type? The manual says use 80 weight. The price is 15.51 per litre. Any help would be appreciated.

My bike is an 05 VT1100C (Spirit).

 

[smilie]

Your final drive oil has nothing to do with your clutch. The hypoid gear oil is for the final drive. Oil for the crankcase is your choice as I'm not goin' there.

 

[swifty2014]

A little confusion here=
Hypoid oil is used for angle gears in a differential or final drive on a bike with shaft drive.
Your engine oil is what is running through your wet clutch and not in the differential gears.

Smilie said it first !!!

 

[Rembrandt]

Your final drive oil has nothing to do with your clutch. The hypoid gear oil is for the final drive. Oil for the crankcase is your choice as I'm not goin' there.

Maxima Hypoid Synthetic Gear Oil
Maxima 100% Synthetic Gear Oil is an advanced lubricant specifically formulated for motorcycle shaft drive applications and transmission fluid for BMW® and Harley-Davidson® motorcycles. Maxima Gear Oil greatly enhances shifting on many twin cylinder motorcycles.

• 100% synthetic gear oil
• Transmission, shaft drive and hypoid gear service
• Not for use in wet clutch transmission use
• Rust and corrosion resistant
• Exceeds API GL-4 and GL-5 specifications

 

[Rembrandt]

I'm all over my Rotella for the crankcase in both my Shadow and Suzuki S40.

 

[swifty2014]

Read the above carefully = it is good for shifting on some motorcycles but those are ones without a wet clutch.
GL4 and GL5 is heavy 80 or 90 weight oils for differential type gears, or maybe a separate case for transmission but not running engine oil through it.

Our bikes have a engine/transmission and clutch all in one case and all share engine weight oil. =10-30, 10-40, 15-40, etc. And should be oils safe to use with a wet clutch JASO rated.

Rotella T Is well liked around here as well as Rotell T6 synthetic

 

[Rembrandt]

Bel-Ray Gear Saver Hypoid Gear Oil

Bel-Ray Gear Saver Hypoid offers unsurpassed protection for heavily loaded transmissions and final drive units (rear ends and shaft drives) including limited slip differentials. Extreme Pressure (EP) chemistry provides unmatched protection while preventing friction, wear and heat for quieter and smoother operation.

• Formulated for separate transmissions and final drive units
• Smoother shifting and reduced gear whine
• Extreme Pressure additives reduce component wear

So this gear oil at 80W90 should not be used for my bike?

 

[smilie]

Maxima Hypoid Synthetic Gear Oil
Maxima 100% Synthetic Gear Oil is an advanced lubricant specifically formulated for motorcycle shaft drive applications and transmission fluid for BMW® and Harley-Davidson® motorcycles. Maxima Gear Oil greatly enhances shifting on many twin cylinder motorcycles.

• 100% synthetic gear oil
• Transmission, shaft drive and hypoid gear service
• Not for use in wet clutch transmission use
• Rust and corrosion resistant
• Exceeds API GL-4 and GL-5 specifications

What you listed here answered all the questions you had in your first post.

I'm all over my Rotella for the crankcase in both my Shadow and Suzuki S40.

I was gonna say it, but didn't want to hit the hornet's nest.

 

[Rembrandt]

I guess I'll stop asking because I'm now completely confused...sorry for wasting your time guys...thanks for trying to help. Take care. I think I'll find a dealership who can match the specs I can safely use.

 

[swifty2014]

Yes, use the Bel-ray hypoid in the rear end of your bike only !!!
Use Rotella in the engine only !!!


You do have a shaft drive rear differential right?
I don't know the bike, but if you have a chain or belt= forget all the hypoid oil altogether.

 

[Rembrandt]

I certainly know where the Rotella goes...lol... all I wanted to know was whether the gear oil I found online was safe to use in the rear end shaft drive ...thanks for the help.

 

[jpr1968]

The products you listed will work fine for your differential. The clutch, transmission and engine are all one unit and the differential has nothing to do with any of them. It is a separate unit and doesn't share the fluid with any other component.

 

[Rembrandt]

Thanks JPR...I finally understand the point being made. Succinctly put.

 

[Bobolto]

I user Fuchs SILKOLENE BOA 80W-90 High Performance Hypoid Gear Oil.

nothing but the very finest for MOI Bike .... : )

 

[h13man]

My choice: Valvoline.com > Products > Valvoline > Gear Oil Valvoline > Valvoline® High Performance Gear Oil

 

[jpr1968]

Unless your doing a 1000mph are the time high performance gear oil isn't going to help reduce wear any better then a $5 bottle of gear lube. I use Valvoline synthetic and it works fine.

 

[Furball Zen]

Not only that, but you use a couple OUNCES, so buying a liter bottle would be a huge waste when you only need to change it once every 24k miles...

 

[smilie]

Not only that, but you use a couple OUNCES, so buying a liter bottle would be a huge waste when you only need to change it once every 24k miles...

You know, for the life of me I can't fathom why they would recommend the 24,000 mile change interval on the final drive. When I bought my new to me spirit last year, it had 4000mi on the clock. Just for my own peace of mind I changed out the final drive lube like the rest of the fluids in the bike. The lube had a lot gray metal fines in it, which didn't surprise me and in my mind, confirmed it to be original. Before anyone jumps in and tells me I have problems in the final drive, I don't. At 8500 miles the replaced lube is a clean as the day I changed it. With that being said, and relatively common knowledge that all metal mated and moving parts wear excessively during a break-in period, why would they make the interval so long? After seeing what the lube looked like after 4000mi, I wouldn't have dreamt of running it for another 20,000 miles. As cheap as oil is compared to parts/repairs, I think i'll err on the side of caution. What does YOUR final drive oil look like?

 

[h13man]

You know, for the life of me I can't fathom why they would recommend the 24,000 mile change interval on the final drive. When I bought my new to me spirit last year, it had 4000mi on the clock. Just for my own peace of mind I changed out the final drive lube like the rest of the fluids in the bike. The lube had a lot gray metal fines in it, which didn't surprise me and in my mind, confirmed it to be original. Before anyone jumps in and tells me I have problems in the final drive, I don't. At 8500 miles the replaced lube is a clean as the day I changed it. With that being said, and relatively common knowledge that all metal mated and moving parts wear excessively during a break-in period, why would they make the interval so long? After seeing what the lube looked like after 4000mi, I wouldn't have dreamt of running it for another 20,000 miles. As cheap as oil is compared to parts/repairs, I think i'll err on the side of caution. What does YOUR final drive oil look like?

Thanks Smilie for the back up.
Well folks its my bike, my money, and I change mine every season (7000 mi. avg.) regardless. I have a heavier and more powerful machine that also carrys heavy loads 80% of the mileage. Go ahead use what you want and as long as you want. I'll use as much of my lube of my choice I want. I got enough for the next 70,0000 mi. BTW how does properly stored gear lube go to waste? Its not a dairy product. :lol: