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Discussion Starter #1
so the engine is out and on the floor of the garage.
i want to powder coat the frame and a few other bits but it has rust under some brace plates.
will i need to sand and etch this rust out?
will the acid dip get rid of the rust for me?
is it crazy expensive to get a frame powder coated?
are there cheap hack-n-slash folks that do bad powder work? are they common?
are there bake free powder systems so i can do it myself? (i cant fit the frame in my oven)
would i be best off to have all of the parts coated at once, or will it be ok to get them coated piece at a time as i go through my rebuild?
thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
do they even acid dip before powder, or is that anodizing and salt baths only?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i can coat it myself in a makeshift booth, then heat it with a lamp to 350...
i dont have a powder gun yet, but harborfrieght does.
i have a heat gun, and a pop up tent thingie to make a paint booth with.
i got an IR thermometer to make sure it hits 350.
i dont have a bike frame sized oven though
 

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A good powder coat shop will media blast and dip your parts before powder, just remember doing it right is NOT cheap. I've had a lot of parts coated over the years, and have gone thru one really bad guy, a couple of so so ones, and I am currently working with a very good one.

I just had the saddlebag racks on my dual sport coated. Cost me $70, but they did an excellent job.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just had the saddlebag racks on my dual sport coated. Cost me $70, but they did an excellent job.
ok so i could expect an excellent frame job to be around 200ish?
the dip you speak of is the acid bath to etch the rust, or just a parts cleaner to remove oils?
 

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$200? Ah, no.
Depending on color, maybe double/triple that and add some more for a very good job. Like I said, quality powder coating is not cheap. If you just want new color that may last for a while...just paint it. If you want a high quality, durable finish, with very good corrosion resistance...powder is the way to go.

Phosphate is used as rust inhibitor/cleaner/degreaser and a sort of, primer.

Zinc Phosphate Coating Prior to Powder Coating

There are several guys on this forum that do their own powder, and will be along shortly to offer their thoughts. I've painted enough cars/bikes/sleds to be over the mess and time it takes to do my own coatings.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
damn.
well theres my issue then.
ive got some rust that i want to permanently squash, but the bike only cost me about 200$ total.
so coating the frame will literally be 3 times the price of the bike.
man that hurts.
maybe ill get some rust encapsulator, then epoxy paint.
 

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I was inthat situation too. My bike cost me 300. So when the motor went and I was waiting to put the new/used motor in, I Wire brushed the bad spots. Hand sanded the entire frame. Cleaned it. The i used industrial enamel spray paint. The same paint used on escalators. It came out really nice. I put about 6 coats on it.

Powder coating was just to expensive for me. Almost a grand. So we'll see how long this paint lasts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was inthat situation too. My bike cost me 300. So when the motor went and I was waiting to put the new/used motor in, I Wire brushed the bad spots. Hand sanded the entire frame. Cleaned it. The i used industrial enamel spray paint. The same paint used on escalators. It came out really nice. I put about 6 coats on it.

Powder coating was just to expensive for me. Almost a grand. So we'll see how long this paint lasts.
how long has it lasted so far?
any issues?
what is the paint? ceramic? epoxy?
is it a 2 part like this stuff?!
2K Aero-Spray™ Paints – Aerosol Paints & Coatings - Eastwood
 

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For the frame I used Epoxy paint a few years ago, OK LONGER LOL But I did it on a 95 CR250 that was a mess when I got it, A friend and I stripped it down and rebuilt it from the frame up and had 3-4 years before I sold it and got a new bike and the paint was still holding up well.

Dauntae
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i just epoxy'd my coolant overflow tank, it was dry rotting from the UV
 

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Ill have to get back to ya on that. I'll have to check.

Its only been on for about a month 1/2. But its pretty durable. Ill check to get you specifics.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i have a devilbiss hvlp, but no paint booth.
i havnt used it in so long it might need a service.
 

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Its Krylon Industrial tuff coat acrylic enamel. I think this stuff is chemical resistant too. But the EWD 2K is prolly better. The krylon is not 2 part epoxy based.

Keep in mind that when I installed the new motor I taped the frame up, but still banged it and it didn't chip at all. Its really great paint. Like I said I put like 6 coats on it and let it dry for a solid week while I was painting the motor.

Here's before and after.





 

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i have a devilbiss hvlp, but no paint booth.
i havnt used it in so long it might need a service.
I have a 10x10 shed/ shop. with elctric and heat...:mrgreen: My paint jobs come out sweet, thanks to drop plastic...:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i got the drop plastic and i got a little pavilion style popup tent thing.
i plan on setting this up with the drop cloth walls in it within the next 2 months and trying some blasting and paint
 

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Cool. Can't wait to see it done.
 
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