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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First question, I have an 02 Spirit 750...bough it used, obviosuly it has no tach. Can anyone offer advice as to how close I am to 1000rpm at a warm idle (took the video after I rode the 15 miles to work) :



Second question: I had the typical popping at decel issue, didn't think much of it as it is apparently pretty normal...then I randomly decided that I thought my idle was a touch high and lowered it (barley lowered I might add), and now I have zero popping, the bike sounds smoother than silk. I can't fathom why adjusting the idle screw would have any effect though, anyone have any input?

Thanks a bunch for any help!
 

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Get a recording from the motor side rather than the exhaust. I can judge RPM better of the motor noise better than exhaust noise. That sounds close. How does it sound, mechanically, when compared to you Car.

turning the Idle screw increases and decreases air volume in the carbs, More air leaner and popping, less air richer less popping.
 

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I set the idle by when the bike begins to pull on it's own without applying any throttle. While feathering the clutch, of course.
I have NEVER in 40 plus years of riding every heard of this method of setting the idle. Can't see how that would get an accurate Idle. I can see how that would prevent setting too low, but it would also tend to set it high.
 

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Just the idle speed screw, didn't touch the mixture one
Some carbs have a coasting valve that allows some air in during deceleration. Maybe by lowering the idle the valve is closing sooner thus you get less popping. It’s hard to tell but your idle sounds close to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Get a recording from the motor side rather than the exhaust. I can judge RPM better of the motor noise better than exhaust noise. That sounds close.
Here ya go, from the other side, complete with that bothersome (but as I understand, typical?) honda whine...


 

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Originally Posted by 93gc40

I have NEVER in 40 plus years of riding every heard of this method of setting the idle. Can't see how that would get an accurate Idle. I can see how that would prevent setting too low, but it would also tend to set it high.
I didn't claim the method is accurate within a 50-rpm plus or minus range, or perhaps, it is, however I've never tested it side by side with a tachometer, thusly I didn't refrain from raving that it was the best thing since slice bread out of humbleness alone. However, when I press my start-button, my bike starts up immediately. So what I do know is that the idle is set high enough that idling in traffic never drains my battery. That's my prime concern. Battery life above anything else. And yes, as the engine heats up the idle's rpm does increase, but I've grown accustomed to the fluctuation that I seldom adjust the idle down. My 600 doesn't have a tech, but my valk does have a tach, and it seems that the correlation does hold true for the Valk's specified idle at 1000 rpm. In fact, the needle's right on the line. Other bikes may differ. I mentioned this method because novices might not be able to approximate the right rpm by ear. By sound.
 
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