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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, new to biking and have a problem I need some help with. My Honda Shadow 2014 VT750 has no ignition lights. Traced one fault back to starter relay solenoid that had blown 30a fuse and had some corrosion. Fitter new but still no ignition lights
, so will not start. Has anyone got any advise on fault finding?
Where will can I download a decent wiring diagram?
Thanks in advance
Paul
 

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By no ignition lights, do you mean the headlight/taillight that come on, or the instrument panel lights?
 

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Make sure your battery cables are clean and tight. Also, clean your start switch at the bars. There's a tutorial in the stickys at the top of the tech discussion (Switch cleaning 101) that's worth reading.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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If you have a 12 volt test light, or meter, check for power at the fuses for ignition, etc. If there is power there, it is getting through the ignition switch.
 

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If you had a 30A Fuse popped, I would check your connectors to see if any are burnt/melted.
But otherwise you'll have to take a Multimeter and go through the wires/connectors to find out the dead connection or problem wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Does anyone have a wiring diagram, this would help me with my fault finding. I have a new tester but know idea what i should be testing other than the basics. I have no instrument light, no lights at all and no start up. I have changed ignition solenoid relay, cleaned all connection. secured battery terminals and replaced 30A fuse. No stuck, glad its raining, so no pressure to be out riding
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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I remember some guys that had changed the starter relay with an aftermarket part and had no power. The terminals on the after market one are reverse so no battery power goes through. Compare the markings on the old one to the new one for the battery cable connections.
 

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The red wire on the starter relay feeds the keybox +12. Some instances, its female blade terminal gets disconnected from it's prong on the starter relay and then there's no way for the keybox to get electricity. You might try pushing the red wire's female blade down in its slot to insure that its full plugged in. Don't just push down on the red cap, but push down the individual red wire itself.

284446
 

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I remember some guys that had changed the starter relay with an aftermarket part and had no power. The terminals on the after market one are reverse so no battery power goes through. Compare the markings on the old one to the new one for the battery cable connections.

Absolutely. Although the B and M eyelets are identical and even symmetrical, only the B eyelet makes an internal connection from the battery positive cable to it's respective prong.

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The B terminal is from BATTERY power. The M terminal is output to the starter MOTOR. So if the new solenoid has marking you have to follow that.
 
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