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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well folks here's my current issue, I need a new ignition switch (I believe is the term) for my bike. I can't seem to find one online. There is a disconnect if my key gets bumped. As in if I'm riding and the key gets jostled in the slightest the bike shuts down. I have to wiggle the key around to get the "on" position to work. I've removed the part and am unable to find a replacement. I have found some "universal" parts but they only have a place to connect 3 wires and this ignition has 5, (1) black (1) red (2) brown (1) brown with white stripe. Therefore I need to know A) does anybody know where I could find a replacement (besides ebay hopefully) or B) can anybody enlighten me how to re-wire to accommodate a universal switch to my stock connection?

Thanks in advance, pic of part attached
 

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The detents become worn and sloppy. That appears to be very similar to an older Goldwing switch. On those you can replace the bottom, switching unit by itself. See if you can separate the actual switch from the tumbler/lock assembly.
 

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strip the old switch, build up any worn contacts with LMP solder, smooth them down with sandpaper.

This will make a good repair until you can find another ignition switch..

John.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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I have a 1983 750 and my switch is getting iffy too, the manual shows for 1983 and 1984, the wiring to the ignition and 5 wires as follows=
Red is from the main fuse and is power in.
Black is ignition power out and goes to the fuses and the starter/ kill switch unit.
The 2 browns actually go through a connector and turn into 1 brown after that, and they go to the stop and tail light sensor unit in the rear. Lighting power.
The brown/white goes to speedo lights and turn signal switch.
If you have 3 wires on the aftermarket part you could use 1 as POWER IN (maybe red).--
1 as power out to IGNITION ( maybe black ).
And the third on to the other three brown and brown/white wires to power the other lighting sections. I don't know what colors there are or the on/ off sequence of the aftermarket switch but this COULD work and I will probably try myself someday.
Hope this helps.
Also on our models there is a park position when you turn the key one position from the lock, this turns on the tail light only. So maybe one of those brown wires won't be necessary with your new switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the suggestions fellas, attached is a photo of the switch separated from the lock and tumbler. Given that I have no idea what I'm looking at, is there a lock and tumblr set from another bike I can hook the switch to? Or would it be better to use the wires and connectors and wire into a universal switch set up?
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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If you can find the plastic contact section that would be the fix.
On Japanese cars they are replaceable but i don't know about bikes. Maybe call Honda dealer to see if it can be had still.
If the key feels good in all positions the contacts are what you need.
 

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I had the exact same problem, and after finding out how much a replacement is I hot wired the key switch with a relay and a cheap toggle switch. I mounted the switch into the gap between the frame and the fuel tank tunnel. It works like a charm. Sure, its probably not a good anti-theft system, but who is going to steal an '83 shadow?

I put the key switch back into the handlebar just so that it doesn't look like something is missing, and it makes a spiffy key holder for the fuel tank.
 

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Necessity is the mother of invention. And electrical problems can be a real mother.
Red Green said "if you can't fix it with duct tape , you haven't used enough !"
 

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I've did this on other bikes, but not on my '84 700 yet. The problem is inside the white and black part with the pigtail, the rest is just the "detents" to hold the ignition in a certain position. The white and black part is where the contacts are. I'm extremely sure you can take it apart fairly easily as long as you take your time and take pictures as you go so you know where the parts go back to.

First, mark one side of the "casing" with a knife so you know exactly how they fit back together.

Second, split the "casing" (I do believe it's just clipped together) to expose the insides.

Third, on the inside you will have one side with a wheel that rotates and the other should have the contacts that connect the different electrical connections in each stage of the ignition.

Fourth, clean EVERYTHING.

Fifth, you should be able to discern where the contacts have been worn/bent away from the "wheel" and where they need to be repaired at.

Finally, repair the contacts and wheel where necessary (may have to somewhat invent some fixes like using super glue on the underside of contacts to "raise up" some of the contacts to get better connections) USE DIELECTRIC GREASE ON EVERY CONTACT and I believe there is a spring that holds the "wheel" to the contacts and it may be worn out needing to be replaced or "stretched" out a bit to ensure contact. Then reassemble and test for continuity before reinstalling in cylinder and in bike.
 

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With guidance from those who have repaired theirs, I`m fairly certain you can repair yours too...

It`s still raining!

EDIT^
Where`d he go?? Ain`t posted since Sunday???
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update: I managed to find an aftermarket ignition switch that matches perfectly except for the connectors and wire colors (of course). So now in the process of searching wiring diagrams to make sure I splice the correct wires together. Will post pics shortly
 

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Update: I managed to find an aftermarket ignition switch that matches perfectly except for the connectors and wire colors (of course). So now in the process of searching wiring diagrams to make sure I splice the correct wires together. Will post pics shortly
Where did you find the switch? Can you point me in the right direction. I'm having hell finding one
 
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