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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I burned up another R/R. This will be the third one in a few months. I've replaced the bad connections. I have a new battery, new plastic connectors, voltage is fine from the stator. Any ideas out there? I've been buying R/R's from Ebay for around 40 bucks including shipping. The Honda dealer wants 200. Do you think it could be the cheaper R/R? I'm at a total loss now.
 

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It could be a case of You Get What You Pay For.

When you say the stator's voltage is good, how did you measure? Do you see equal AC volts between each pair of yellow wires? A stator with one failed leg will stress the regulator.
 

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I burned up another R/R. This will be the third one in a few months. I've replaced the bad connections. I have a new battery, new plastic connectors, voltage is fine from the stator. Any ideas out there? I've been buying R/R's from Ebay for around 40 bucks including shipping. The Honda dealer wants 200. Do you think it could be the cheaper R/R? I'm at a total loss now.
The ones you've been buying are most likely cheap Chinese made with poor reliability and reputation. I'd suggest getting one from Honda or one of the several OM dealers on the internet for a bit less than what the dealer will charge you. You've already burnt thru $120 on cheap R/R's off of e-bay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I replaced all wires that look brownish a month ago. I replaced the connector with a new one. I measured the stator voltage while at idle. All legs were the same; around 14.8. I revved it up and the voltage on all went up to around 70 volts. I just ordered what may be a better R/R from Electro sport. Maybe that will do it.
 

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don't get an OEM R/R as replacement

I'm on another Shadow forum specific to the ACE Tourer model. There's a whole section on that site for the issue of cheap/bad OEM Regulator/Rectifiers. Seems it's a known issue not to replace the OEM type with another OEM type. I've changed mine (on VT1100T) with Electrosport and I'm getting good, controlled charging (14V plus or minus depending on RPM) with the new R/R. My old one was only making 11 or 12 volts at cruise RPM and wouldn't keep the battery charged. The only down side was that the mounting was not a perfect swap, but with some hardware lying around it was no problem to improvise.

With all that said, you do want to make sure that your stator checks out, and that the battery is good before you keep burning up regulators because of a different problem. (Sorry I don't have specs handy for the stator, but a parts store will check the battery for free)

Here's a link to the ACE Tourer forum that discusses the overall charging problems and options for fixes....

Upgraded MOSFET Regulator/Rectifier in Electrical and Lighting Forum

Happy reading, and good luck!
 

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I also put a MOSFET r/r on my '98 VT1100-T and I have not had to think about my bike starting on a cold day after sitting for over 6 weeks. That MOSFET r/r keeps my battery fully charged and my lights burning bright.
Here is where I bought mine
Home

ROD
 

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Did you check the resistance between each stator wire and ground..

John.
 

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After testing the entire charging system, I diagnosed a rectifier diode bad in the Rec/reg...
I replaced it with an Honda unit specific to my my Bike (and others), MANY years ago, at the cost of $140(??) Honda buck$ from my local dealer...
IF I had the knowledge of these MOSFET units at that time, I`d have one of those on the Bike instead...
Good Luck,
D
 

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Any ideas out there?
Quit wasting time and money on cheap junk.

Do some research here and figure out where to get a quality r/r for $120 or so. (Hint: Electrosport's or the Shindengen from Roadstercycle were my top choices. I went with the latter.)

Do some real diagnostics and figure out what's wrong with your electrical system.

--- OR ---

Continue to swap out parts. Stick with cheap junk from eBay and call it your hobby.




On edit: For $50 (including shipping charges) I'll send you the one I pulled from my bike. It works. Tests fine. It was my stator that failed. I replaced the OEM r/r because it supposedly couldn't handle the higher output of the upgraded stator I bought -- though I never tested the veracity of that report.
 

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I was stranded three times with low battery until I went with the Roadstercycle unit. Went all summer without needing the battery tender.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well here's the update. The rr I got from electro sport seems to function better. My light doesn't dim anymore at idle either. Bike is working well. It appears the cheap ones suck.
 

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Well here's the update. The rr I got from electro sport seems to function better. My light doesn't dim anymore at idle either. Bike is working well. It appears the cheap ones suck.
I have the Roadstercycle r/r...the only caveat that I have for it is that it will not mount in the stock location on an '05 Aero. I had to mount it to the battery box (there is a thread around here somewhere about it).

Is the Electrosport r/r a MOSFET r/r, or the same a the stock r/r with upgraded internals?
 

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Is the Electrosport r/r a MOSFET r/r, or the same a the stock r/r with upgraded internals?
Electrosport has R/Rs built with MOSFETs and they have R/Rs built with SCRs. (The latter is what I think you are calling "stock.") Stevei2x will have to let us know which he got -- if he knows.

I have the Roadstercycle r/r...the only caveat that I have for it is that it will not mount in the stock location on an '05 Aero.
I believe that is true for all VT1100 bikes from Honda. I believe most of us mount the Shindengen upside down. (I did after unsatisfactory results from trying it rightside up with an adapter plate.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Not sure what I got. The only one they had for a 2000 750 ace cd. What is a mofset?
 

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What is a mofset?
Internal electronics. It's an acronym for Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor. Used in many other devices even though some folks here think MOSFET is interchangeable with "regulator-rectifier."

The other type of r/r is Silicon Controlled Rectifier, SCR for short. Stock on our bikes.

Differences are not really significant though SCRs run hotter than MOSFETs. Many people here attribute all differences from stock r/r to replacement to the internal componentry. May be fair. Might also be major contribution from the quality of manufacturing -- as you've apparently learned the hard way.
 
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