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Discussion Starter #1
In most states the dot has a certain speed that your turn signals can flash,
and on most motorcycles if you change your turn light bulbs to LEDs your
flasher relay will not work or will flash to fast .
LED turn light bulbs draw very little watts and most flasher relays require
heat of two light bulbs to cycle the flashers, they are called thermal flasher relays, and
thay will not work with LED light bulbs
here is a $10. fix for the "Too fast flasher"


First find your flasher relay on your bike and remove it , look on the bottom and see if it has two prongs or three.
Most bikes will have two you will need to go to your auto parts store and get an "electronic flasher" (EL12).
For 3 prong you will need electronic flasher (EL13).
I went to @[email protected] auto parts and in the aisle with the interior light bulbs was the ten dollar flasher.



The plug for the original flasher was smaller the the new one so i got some solder less connectors and
some spare wire, and on the bottom of the flasher there are plugs one marked with the "X" , and the other with an "L".



I plugged the "X" into the side with the +12volts and one marked with the "L" into the other one (load). and
for the three prong type , the "P" is connected to the indicator light.

tape it up out of the way


what do you know ,,,,, IT worked.
 

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I followed your directions and had no problem getting my LED's to work properly. I sure saves time and money from going either the resistor method, or buying the adapter for around $28.00. Thank you.
 

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I plugged the "X" into the side with the +12volts and one marked with the "L" into the other one (load). and
for the three prong type , the "P" is connected to the indicator light.

I have an 83 750 with a 3 prong flasher, I went and purchased a new electronic 3 prong flasher. Like you said I connected the power to X, the load to L, but when I connected the 3rd wire to the 3rd P prong I blew the fuse. So I tried it without connecting the 3rd wire and everything worked. Is there any reason that I need to connect the 3rd wire? Can I just leave it unconnected to the flasher?
 

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That's a good idea

I upgraded to LED last spring and the shop sold me a "Load equalizer" for each side. Left and right. Your solution makes more sense. These load equalizers ground out the wire to the LED with a resistor to the frame increase the amperage draw to make the stock flasher work. Talk about a wasting the efficiency of LEDs. I might switch over to your solution if I ever get around to adding a light bar.

Check out the LED conversion of the stock turn signals. I clear lensed them to get this effect and the Brake, Tail light and Turn signal functions all in the stock turn signal housings. Had to add relays to each circuit to get this flash pattern.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/3554501021/in/set-72157594364276411/
 

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rtolman said:
I plugged the "X" into the side with the +12volts and one marked with the "L" into the other one (load). and
for the three prong type , the "P" is connected to the indicator light.

I have an 83 750 with a 3 prong flasher, I went and purchased a new electronic 3 prong flasher. Like you said I connected the power to X, the load to L, but when I connected the 3rd wire to the 3rd P prong I blew the fuse. So I tried it without connecting the 3rd wire and everything worked. Is there any reason that I need to connect the 3rd wire? Can I just leave it unconnected to the flasher?
I did this years ago when I installed a trailer converter on my bike to turn the rear signals into brake/signal/running lights. This mod too (like the LED mod) causes the flasher to flash too fast.

Without the "P" terminal connected it won't indicate if a bulb is burned out. Typically, with the "P" terminal connected, if a bulb burns out, the indicator light stays lit continuously (instead of flashing) when you turn on the turnsignal. Without the "P" terminal connected, the indicator light will continue to flash even if the bulb is burned out..............
So; make sure you check your bulbs on a regular basis. That's what I do!
BTW, I've had an "EL13" flasher installed on my 750ACE since about 1999. That's about 10-years without an issue.
Phil
 

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Phil said:
rtolman said:
I plugged the "X" into the side with the +12volts and one marked with the "L" into the other one (load). and
for the three prong type , the "P" is connected to the indicator light.

I have an 83 750 with a 3 prong flasher, I went and purchased a new electronic 3 prong flasher. Like you said I connected the power to X, the load to L, but when I connected the 3rd wire to the 3rd P prong I blew the fuse. So I tried it without connecting the 3rd wire and everything worked. Is there any reason that I need to connect the 3rd wire? Can I just leave it unconnected to the flasher?
I did this years ago when I installed a trailer converter on my bike to turn the rear signals into brake/signal/running lights. This mod too (like the LED mod) causes the flasher to flash too fast.

Without the "P" terminal connected it won't indicate if a bulb is burned out. Typically, with the "P" terminal connected, if a bulb burns out, the indicator light stays lit continuously (instead of flashing) when you turn on the turnsignal. Without the "P" terminal connected, the indicator light will continue to flash even if the bulb is burned out..............
So; make sure you check your bulbs on a regular basis. That's what I do!
BTW, I've had an "EL13" flasher installed on my 750ACE since about 1999. That's about 10-years without an issue.
Phil
Thanks that helps. Know any reason why connecting the 3rd wire would cause the fuse to pop?
 

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rtolman said:
Thanks that helps. Know any reason why connecting the 3rd wire would cause the fuse to pop?
Not 100% sure, but I think it has something to do with the way the indicator lamp is wired on motorcycles.

On a car, the indicator lamp is energized by making and breaking the positive side, and is actually energized by the flasher.

On a motorcycle, it's done by making and breaking the negative side. The flasher doesn't supply power to the indicator lamp.

So, when you connect that third wire on your bike using a car flasher, instead of energizing the indicator lamp, you're connecting the positive directly to ground causing a short and the fuse blows.
Phil
 

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Phil said:
rtolman said:
Thanks that helps. Know any reason why connecting the 3rd wire would cause the fuse to pop?
Not 100% sure, but I think it has something to do with the way the indicator lamp is wired on motorcycles.

On a car, the indicator lamp is energized by making and breaking the positive side, and is actually energized by the flasher.

On a motorcycle, it's done by making and breaking the negative side. The flasher doesn't supply power to the indicator lamp.

So, when you connect that third wire on your bike using a car flasher, instead of energizing the indicator lamp, you're connecting the positive directly to ground causing a short and the fuse blows.
Phil
Thanks again, good to know stuff.

Rob
 

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I just search and read your post (great stuff). I have a question, I tired putting leds in today and i got some weird results. One, when i put my rear led 1156's in and the stock fronts. The new rears started blinking fast. I understand why after reading your post. My second issue is; with the led 1156's in the rears, i put the 1157's in the front and after i did that all 4 turn signals started blinking like harzard lights. Anyone ever heard of that? If so , would this fix my issue??? thanks for your input...


About the mod. Is this a add on or do you unclip from something and then add this low watting adapter?

Trying i to put these on a 97 Honda Shadow Ace 1100
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ttaylor07 said:
I just search and read your post (great stuff). I have a question, I tired putting leds in today and i got some weird results. One, when i put my rear led 1156's in and the stock fronts. The new rears started blinking fast. I understand why after reading your post. My second issue is; with the led 1156's in the rears, i put the 1157's in the front and after i did that all 4 turn signals started blinking like harzard lights. Anyone ever heard of that? If so , would this fix my issue??? thanks for your input...


About the mod. Is this a add on or do you unclip from something and then add this low watting adapter?

Trying i to put these on a 97 Honda Shadow Ace 1100
read the write-up : "First find your flasher relay on your bike and remove it"
this should get you in the right direction .
good luck
horse
 

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Discussion Starter #12
rtolman said:
I plugged the "X" into the side with the +12volts and one marked with the "L" into the other one (load). and
for the three prong type , the "P" is connected to the indicator light.

I have an 83 750 with a 3 prong flasher, I went and purchased a new electronic 3 prong flasher. Like you said I connected the power to X, the load to L, but when I connected the 3rd wire to the 3rd P prong I blew the fuse. So I tried it without connecting the 3rd wire and everything worked. Is there any reason that I need to connect the 3rd wire? Can I just leave it unconnected to the flasher?
leave it unplugged. if everything is working without the third wire then you don't need it.
I don't have a Shadow but i know that the people here in the Shadow board know the bike better then most dealers do, so if thay tell you that you should do something and i put something down that worked for me on my bike (VTX) it might not work the same on others.
Thanks for those that are helping others out , some boards don't try to help others but just criticize those that ask for help.
You have Knowledgeable people here that try to help.
:)
 

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I have an 83 750 with a 3 prong flasher, I went and purchased a new electronic 3 prong flasher. Like you said I connected the power to X, the load to L, but when I connected the 3rd wire to the 3rd P prong I blew the fuse. So I tried it without connecting the 3rd wire and everything worked. Is there any reason that I need to connect the 3rd wire? Can I just leave it unconnected to the flasher?
I have a 83 750 too and i cannot figure out which wire is the power and which is the load. i have already popped two fuses and i figured i would ask before i try again. What wire did you run to the the X and L?
 

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I did this years ago when I installed a trailer converter on my bike to turn the rear signals into brake/signal/running lights. This mod too (like the LED mod) causes the flasher to flash too fast.

Without the "P" terminal connected it won't indicate if a bulb is burned out. Typically, with the "P" terminal connected, if a bulb burns out, the indicator light stays lit continuously (instead of flashing) when you turn on the turnsignal. Without the "P" terminal connected, the indicator light will continue to flash even if the bulb is burned out..............
So; make sure you check your bulbs on a regular basis. That's what I do!
BTW, I've had an "EL13" flasher installed on my 750ACE since about 1999. That's about 10-years without an issue.
Phil

BTW, I just installed the SOS Priority Plus light controller, which turns the rear turn signals into T/S, brake, and tail lights. Easy, 15 minute install, works as advertised. Costs around $40.
 

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An electronic flasher alone will not work on some Shadows. If you have a SINGLE indicator light on the triple tree or on the speedo then you will have an issue. The problem is current will travel either way through that light and cause the lights to either not flash at all or all 4 will flash. Kuryakyn sells a diode kit for metric bikes that corrects this issue. its like $7. essentially you ground one side of the indicator light and wire 2 diodes inot the light on the other side. Worked like a charm on my 98 T
 

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Hey im putting on a curved side license plate with LED brake light, running lights and license plate lights. I'm trying to find the original flasher relay but have no idea where it is. I ordered this license plate part tonight and will be shipped in the morning. If I knew what kind of relay I had I would order the electronic relay EL12 or EL 13 with it. But I don't know if it's 2 or 3 prong. Can someone help me out asap as they will be shipping tomorrow morning

Clint
 

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You have to tell what bike it is for us to help .
 

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I sorry it's a 2001 Honda spirit vt750dc 750. I purchased a el12 and el13 just to be safe because they are sending it out in the morning. Some pics would be nice and exactly where the relay is. I seen the pics above but I must be blind because I couldn't find it. I took the battery out searched around it was a dead end.
 

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Appears to be on the right side behind the rear coil above the fuel pump behind fuel cut relay.
 

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