Honda Shadow Forums banner

1 - 20 of 44 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
322 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a center lift a few months ago so I could work on the bikes. The lift worked great for mw wifes VLX but I hated how it lifted my VT1100C so I set out to correct that. Below are pics of what I did. Hope it helps someone else.

First I got some UHMW plastic stock. This stuff is realy tough, I then drilled and tapped it for 3/8" bolts. The white paint is to make the block easier to see.


Next I drilled mounting holes in the lift and bolted the spacer block in place.


Plenty of clearance for the oil filter.


A very stable and level lift.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,340 Posts
the crankcase hanging below the frame is the problem with lifting the shadows. There are several posts on here about making brackets for your jack so you lift on the frame.
For changing the oil, some 2x6's for the wheels and kick stand are the cheapest and probally one of the most stable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
the crankcase hanging below the frame is the problem with lifting the shadows. There are several posts on here about making brackets for your jack so you lift on the frame.
For changing the oil, some 2x6's for the wheels and kick stand are the cheapest and probally one of the most stable.
I have the hardest time doing a search here. I get better results on google and that has links back to here. I see the OP has a mod that just shime the back portion of the frame. I thought I read somewhere that you needed to shim both front and back.
 

·
Registered
1999 VT1100C2 A. C. E.
Joined
·
9,223 Posts
I have the hardest time doing a search here. I get better results on google and that has links back to here.
You can "instruct" Google to look here by appending " site:hondashadow.net" to the end of your search.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,361 Posts
I have the hardest time doing a search here. I get better results on google and that has links back to here. I see the OP has a mod that just shime the back portion of the frame. I thought I read somewhere that you needed to shim both front and back.
You need to shim up the front not the back. You can do both if you want to get the bike level on the lift but the front has to be shimmed so that the engine is not resting on the lift.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
You need to shim up the front not the back. You can do both if you want to get the bike level on the lift but the front has to be shimmed so that the engine is not resting on the lift.
RichardL: thanks for DIY pics. Your lift does indeed look nice and level. But is the engine resting directly on the left? It appears so.

jpr1968: sounds like you're not onboard with jacking up the engine directly. Is this bad for the bike?

Thanks guys
Alan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,810 Posts
jpr1968: sounds like you're not onboard with jacking up the engine directly. Is this bad for the bike?
Do you really want to take a chance on breaking a very expensive and difficult to change out, aluminum engine case.

Never lift a bike by the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
No offense to anyone on here but there is no problem with lifting the bike on the motor and the board on the back section as the pic shows. You can lift a car engine with a cast alluminum pan, its advised not to go metal to metal...use a block of wood or something to help distribute the load...and these jacks have that rubber pad. There are some bikes that use the engine as an integral part of the frame... Just my .02 cents; and we can all do it our own way
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
No offense to anyone on here but there is no problem with lifting the bike on the motor and the board on the back section as the pic shows. You can lift a car engine with a cast alluminum pan, its advised not to go metal to metal...use a block of wood or something to help distribute the load...and these jacks have that rubber pad. There are some bikes that use the engine as an integral part of the frame... Just my .02 cents; and we can all do it our own way
Well I was kinda afraid to say it but since you did... yeah that is exactly what I'm doing. My jack has lifts that are coated in thick rubber, so one of them goes gently under the crankcase and the other slides under the rear of the frame, with two boards on it to level things out. May not be ideal, but it gets the bike in the air for quick & easy procedures like changing fork spring spacers. I tried and tried but could not construct any kind of custom shim that did not also require me to get the bike 6" off the ground just to get the jack under it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,361 Posts
I guess you two don't really care if you damage the engine. There are numerous posts about how to block up the bike and you can also use hockey pucks. I'm not going to chance damage.
 

·
Registered
1999 VT1100C2 A. C. E.
Joined
·
9,223 Posts
I guess you two don't really care if you damage the engine. There are numerous posts about how to block up the bike and you can also use hockey pucks. I'm not going to chance damage.
As you say, lifting the bike is not the problem. It's what happens if things go wrong. But, hey, why waste the time to do it right the first time when there's plenty of time to do it over later?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Well, like I said...its not that I dont care if I destroy it; I just know better that it wont. And I'm not saying its stupid to lift it another way, this way is just the fastest and easiest way and is perfectly safe; That way others, who maybe are just getting a jack can make their own decision. But what do I know?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
that is a sweet setup and best idea to modding a bike jack for our bikes i've seen to date!

I suppose a 2x4 would work well too
 
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
Top