Honda Shadow Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 1997 ACE 1100 has developed a loud tappet noise on the rear right cylinder. I know it is rear right as I listened with a stethoscope. Putting in fresh 10W40 dino oil and a bit of ZDDP Rislone additive did not change the noise. I now suspect a clogged oil passage, as my dipstick was missing its small o-ring a season ago, so maybe it's fragments are blocking it. Maybe not.

How do I check for a clogged oil passage? Can I check the tappets for lubrication without removing the engine? Any advice is most welcome.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,587 Posts
Does the sound get louder when revved up a bit or go away with more RPM? My old '83 750 has an idle clatter I keep thinking is a collapsed lifter But it gets quieter at about 2000 RPM. It runs OK at this point so I am not willing to tear it apart. I also found the rear cylinder cam chain tensioner is weak and may allow some chain slop at low speeds. No way to see what the lifter is doing without taking it apart.
A piece of O ring would have to be pretty small to pass though the oil pump pickup screen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Does the sound get louder when revved up a bit or go away with more RPM? My old '83 750 has an idle clatter I keep thinking is a collapsed lifter But it gets quieter at about 2000 RPM. It runs OK at this point so I am not willing to tear it apart. I also found the rear cylinder cam chain tensioner is weak and may allow some chain slop at low speeds. No way to see what the lifter is doing without taking it apart.
A piece of O ring would have to be pretty small to pass though the oil pump pickup screen.
Hey Swifty, no the sound is constant in volume; I don't hear it at 80 MPH because of wind and engine noise, but the tap is still there. Obviously the frequency of the tap increases with engine speed. It is noticeable enough at idle that people on the sidewalk can hear it. At first the tap would occur only when the engine was run for maybe a half hour, now it happens whenever it is running.

Do you think a can of seafoam would help or hinder? I see in other threads that guys have tried different oils with varying results. I just want to avoid any damage as the constant click click click click click sounds like it is going to wear something out if not already.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
Well I've heard of using seafoam right before oil change but I would not let it in there very long. Maybe a few miles and then change. Don't know that it will fix your problem tho. I use seafoam in the gas but probably won't do it in the oil unless im having issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,587 Posts
With our wet clutch system any oil additive could reduce the friction of the clutch. I had thought of the same thing but decided not to chance a slipping clutch. Seafoam would be best for the carb.
As an experiment when I had read about the cam tensioner being weak on some of the early 750 models I took out the spark plug sleeve that screws in to one side of the head. With it out I could get my finger in and actually touch and move the chain on it's guide. The rear one is loose and the front one is tight so the spring mechanism is weak on the rear chain. Not sure if yours is the same but it is something to investigate for a check list of possibilities.
I have been using Rotella T 15-40. That may be worth a try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,010 Posts
A old street racer trick was to use 20% tranny fluid to keep hydraulic lifters clean and quiet. Done it for 8 yrs. on my 71' 307 Chevy Nova. Sold it with 175,000 mi. with out any issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Is the cam chain tensioner hard to access? What tool to remove the spark plug sleeve on the cam side?

Following the Honda maintenance manual:
1- check low oil. Nope, up to the fill line.
2- check oil pressure. Appears okay but I need to see if it is 64psi at 5,000rpm and 80 degrees C
3- Remove cylinder head cover and oil hole caps, check lube.

I don't know where the oil hole caps are located, can't find it mentioned anywhere in section 8 "Head/Valve" of the manual.
Hmmm, maybe I will try some Rislone top oil next, thinking it might be an oil issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,587 Posts
That would probably be a good test to see the oil pressure first. Mine was very good, but that is the measurement at the oil pressure switch hole down next to the water pump. Not real easy to get to it.

As far as the spark plug tubes mine are 27 MM so I found an old crankshaft pulley bolt. But some guys use a 1 1/4 pipe and grind flats in it and drill a hole at the upper end to put a screwdriver through.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,587 Posts
Another thing I found was an oil supply bolt to the heads called an oil orifice bolt that has a banjo fitting and supplies the upper areas. I was going to take it out to see if it could be clogged but decided if it was plugging up, there would be much more clatter and oil starvation than one tick that I have. Just some info. since it could be an area that would slow down the flow to the heads.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,587 Posts
I have to retract that last statement about the oil orifice bolt. I just looked at it better, and it actually feeds the trans and clutch areas. So it shouldn't have an effect of oil pressure to the heads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Anyone know the thread size of the oil pressure switch? I would like to hook up a gauge, is this standardized?

I put in 3 ounces of SeaFoam and the tick went away, temporarily. I will put another 100 miles on it before I draw any conclusion from the cheapo-fix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,010 Posts
If the tick went away, change the oil now and see what happens. I wouldn't leave the Seafoam in much longer than necessary but thats me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,587 Posts
The oil pressure threads on USA fittings are an 1/8 pipe thread. On metric engines they are a 1/8 British pipe thread that is very close but not exact. A US 1/8 pipe will screw in a few threads and most of the time would be good enough for testing purposes and not ruin the Metric threads. Put some teflon tape on to help seal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
The oil pressure threads on USA fittings are an 1/8 pipe thread. On metric engines they are a 1/8 British pipe thread that is very close but not exact. A US 1/8 pipe will screw in a few threads and most of the time would be good enough for testing purposes and not ruin the Metric threads. Put some teflon tape on to help seal.
Thank you swifty that is exactly what I need to know.
The plan is to run one tank or 150 miles on seafoam plus a few ounces of marvel mystery oil as the tick has subsided, will follow up with fresh Castrol GTX 10W40.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
518 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
A follow up on this thread to say the seafoam seems to have worked. Ran 130 miles and then changed to fresh 10W40; no more noise from the lifters.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,352 Posts
Gotta love it when the "mechanic-in-a-bottle" fixes the problem!


Simply love that stuff!
Works overnite, one application, when B12 or Seafoam would take a week.



Tractor Supply usually has it; sometimes Home Depot.
And small engine repair places.


-Gnarly

( because everything looks the darkest, right before it goes completely black)
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
About this Discussion
18 Replies
7 Participants
Gnarly
Honda Shadow Forums
Welcome to Honda Shadow Forum. Come in and discuss any Honda Shadow models: VT1100, VT250, VT750 and the VT500.
Full Forum Listing
Top