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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
96 honda shadow classic vt1100c2 ACE.
Recently replaced regulator & stator went for a short ride (30 miles), there was a noise coming from the stator when setting at a light, bike seemed to be riding good an occasional back fire but then it sputtered like it ran out of gas and died, would crank but not start. Towed it home. Looking it over found the regulator connection melted..
Any input on what caused this would be very much appreciated..
Thanks in advance
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Hi! Sometimes the regulator/rectifyer is bad, puts a lot of more voltage input and thats what happens.
highly recommended change the recttifyer and regulator for one of the Rick´s rectifyers/regulators all in-in-one. They are very good and proof to burn. I have one in my bike and works like a charm.

By the way, when do that, be sure you change the electrical wires for ones in the order can support that voltages. The wire is as important as the regulator/rectifyer himself.

Greetings from Spain!
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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Pretty common failure with those 3 yellow wires, The pins get warm and then loose grip then overheat and melt the plastic.
Most of us will cut off those ends and splice the wires together and that will last a long time.
You rarely need to disconnect them here after new parts are installed anyway.
If you have extra accessory equipment that puts more load on the charging system that adds to the problem if the connector is not solid.
 

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I think Shindengen had a crimping problem, note those, like mine, appear to have been hottest at the crimp rather than where the spade connectors meet. I've had 3 connectors go like that between my Honda and Kawasaki.
 

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1998 750 ACE
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Whatta Mess!!!
Recently a fella mentioned he used wire nuts for a Good connection at that joint...
Pics and all,
Dennis
 

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96 honda shadow classic vt1100c2 ACE.
Recently replaced regulator & stator went for a short ride (30 miles), there was a noise coming from the stator when setting at a light, bike seemed to be riding good an occasional back fire but then it sputtered like it ran out of gas and died, would crank but not start.
What sort of noise was coming from the stator?

I think that if charging system stops working, the bike can run for some period from the battery alone, but after the battery is mostly depleted, system voltage will start dropping. Then, the Ignition system won't develop enough energy to function and will start mis-firing. On attempted restart, the starter motor draws voltage down even further, so ignition doesn't have a chance.

For the best chance of restarting under these circumstances, one could remove the fuses for the headlight, and cooling fan, and push start the bike. Then limp home without headlight.

They took away our headlight switches in the late 70s, and our kick starters not long after, and I miss them. My 2012 Royal Enfield has both of these, plus a functional center stand, and gets about 70 mpg with 500cc. Modern design is fine, but there's a lot to be said for retaining functional features, in my opinion. I prefer field repair-ability and engineering that benefits the mechanic, over touted reliability, access that requires proprietary tools, and guts stuffed with wires and hoses.

FYI, my 1100 ACE's stator connector was melted, but still working when I got to it and replaced with individual spade connectors.
 

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1998 750 ACE
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Yes axman88 When my Rec/Reg went bad, whilst on vacation in the mountains of North Carolina, I did NOT Stop Riding...
I`d Charge & RIDE...
I bought a 2A charger/maintainer so I could...
I Charged the battery, and RODE for a while, then Charge the Battery again to ride some more...
I had Disconnected the headlight and always parked on a Hill, soas to Push Start,
I wanted to Save as much RIDING time on the battery as I could...

No, I didn`t get too far away from the Girls in the car ;)
Once the battery depleted enough to start sputtering I headed to "Home Base"

It was Many years Later that my connector finally burnt up,
Dennis
 

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Well, Most shadows don't have the black wire, The two green wires go from the connector to the same ground, why are they different? He should check that. The plug cover has dark spots like it's been hot before. And he never tested the rectifier/regulator, just the wire harness. Otherwise not a bad video...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What sort of noise was coming from the stator?

I think that if charging system stops working, the bike can run for some period from the battery alone, but after the battery is mostly depleted, system voltage will start dropping. Then, the Ignition system won't develop enough energy to function and will start mis-firing. On attempted restart, the starter motor draws voltage down even further, so ignition doesn't have a chance.

For the best chance of restarting under these circumstances, one could remove the fuses for the headlight, and cooling fan, and push start the bike. Then limp home without headlight.

They took away our headlight switches in the late 70s, and our kick starters not long after, and I miss them. My 2012 Royal Enfield has both of these, plus a functional center stand, and gets about 70 mpg with 500cc. Modern design is fine, but there's a lot to be said for retaining functional features, in my opinion. I prefer field repair-ability and engineering that benefits the mechanic, over touted reliability, access that requires proprietary tools, and guts stuffed with wires and hoses.

FYI, my 1100 ACE's stator connector was melted, but still working when I got to it and replaced with individual spade connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Pretty common failure with those 3 yellow wires, The pins get warm and then loose grip then overheat and melt the plastic.
Most of us will cut off those ends and splice the wires together and that will last a long time.
You rarely need to disconnect them here after new parts are installed anyway.
If you have extra accessory equipment that puts more load on the charging system that adds to the problem if the connector is not solid.

OK so
I hard wired the 3 yellow wires together..
Fuel filter good, checked all wires to make sure none were bare, looked the bike over.
Got another new battery fully charged.
took it for a couple test rides.. seemed to be running great..
So today rode about 16 miles to my destination, ran great, then about halfway back home it cut out just like before almost as if outta gas or lost power.. checked fuses bottom 1 was blown changed it, tried starting it would crank but not start checked all fuses again same one blown, checked for bare wires couldn't find any. Checked fuel line for blockage, try starting by this point battery dying from cranking it, got a jump BAM!! Started!!
Get about 3miles from home so went at least 5-6 miles running smooth, then it cut out again.. couldn't get it started back up..
Please any advice on what could be causing this..
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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First see what fuse it is . That will be the first circuit you want to repair.
It may be the cause of the dying or a melted harness may have a couple of issues all together.
 
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