I'm wondering if anyone has experienced this. I was changing my oil using Valvoline 10w40 motorcycle oil. I had put 2 quarts in and when I started pouring third quart a white milky substance was in the oil. I stopped as soon as I saw it, probably around 4 or 5 ounces had gone in. I call the phone number on the container and talked to a rep who explained that sometimes when oil sits along time the additive separate. He said to shake it up and then pour it in and it would be fine. That didn't sound so good so I replaced that quart with a new one. The next day I took a ride and when I got back I check oil and the milky white substance showed up on upper part of dip stick. I called Valvoline and talked to a different rep and he said if additives had separated it would not be white. He said it was probably moisture and sense I had only put in a few ounces it would not hurt anything and the heat from engine would evaporate it. He also said he was going to send me 6 quarts to help make things right. The milky substance looks like a cream of some kind and I don't know what it is. I am not going to ride until I change oil but does anyone know what it might be besides moisture and can it damage anything. Any comments will be appreciated.
Milky color in oil
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Do not run the engine. Drain all the oil from the engine. Also, replace the oil filter. Both reps gave you bad information. The engine bearings might be damaged before the engine gets hot enough to evaporate any contaminates. The oil in the 3rd quart was contaminated some how. Are you sure the 3rd quart was still factory sealed when you opened it.
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sorry to tell you this but xxx? is right..you have water in the oil..the first rep gave you very bad advice, and the second rep was trying to cover his ass by saying if it was only a little drop it would not do harm to run the engine...The first rep should have asked you to return the oil for them to examine and offered a full refund.
The milky mixture will turn to foam and cream which will stick to the inside of your engine and emulsify.. it with turn into one of those low fat spreads that you call margarine or butter substitute, this will block your oil ways, which because the bike is water cooled are already quite narrow..
My advice would be to retain the contaminated oil and contact the manufacturers complaints department by recorded delivery and inform them that you need them to examine a sample of the contaminated oil and clean it out of your engine before it causes any damage, also tell them that you intend you inform your local trading standards department and that you will also be sending them a sample of the oil for testing..
If you don't feel like taking the above steps you should purchase a good flushing fluid and after draining the old oil from the engine, flush the engine, drain it again and fit a new filter and a different brand of motorcycle oil from a different supplier..
John.
The milky mixture will turn to foam and cream which will stick to the inside of your engine and emulsify.. it with turn into one of those low fat spreads that you call margarine or butter substitute, this will block your oil ways, which because the bike is water cooled are already quite narrow..
My advice would be to retain the contaminated oil and contact the manufacturers complaints department by recorded delivery and inform them that you need them to examine a sample of the contaminated oil and clean it out of your engine before it causes any damage, also tell them that you intend you inform your local trading standards department and that you will also be sending them a sample of the oil for testing..
If you don't feel like taking the above steps you should purchase a good flushing fluid and after draining the old oil from the engine, flush the engine, drain it again and fit a new filter and a different brand of motorcycle oil from a different supplier..
John.
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^^^+1
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What John and xxxclm said. Also keep the old oil filter. You could always send it off to be analyzed. If there is any damage to your motor it will show up with metal shavings in the filter. Then you could sue them for a new motor.
Also document the day and time that you spoke with the reps and their names if you can remember them. It would help your case if it did have to go to court.
Also document the day and time that you spoke with the reps and their names if you can remember them. It would help your case if it did have to go to court.
Thanks guys for your input. I don't really trust sales reps and don't plan on starting bike until I change oil. I wish I had kept the entire quart that had the milky crap in it as proof. I am sure it was sealed when i purchased it. I did go out and get some off the upper part of dip stick to save. I am afraid that it will plug small ports and cause me problems as was mentioned. I have used Valvoline for a while without any problems. The second rep ask who I talked to the first time, I didn't know so he looked it up and said he was new and they would have to retrain him. What would be the best thing to flush engine with? Also I went to 6 places to get 4 quarts. Walmart had 2 one of them contaminated, auto zone had none, advance auto had none, O'Reilly's had none, another Walmart had 1, Napa had some and it was almost double Walmarts price. I probably rode about 25 miles with milky crap, took my wife for a ride to look at Christmas lights all low speed riding.
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I would suggests making a switch to Shell Rotella T6 as lots and lots of us have. It's widely available and cheap. Its actually a diesel oil but works great in our bikes. Full synthetic also. Do a search on "oilology" here on the forum and you'll learn everything you'd ever want to know about what oil to use in your bike.
As for what's in your crankcase now -- drain it and save it. Whatever stuff is in there will show up in what you drain. DO NOT fire up the engine to follow standard oil change procedures. Just drain that stuff and remove the filter. I don't know how to ensure you get the engine clean but there is not a thing you can do with that oil "helping." Hopefully someone here has good advice that's short of a tear down. I'd leave the engine draining until someone offered advice that seems like it will help.
You'll probably have to discard the next oil & filter, too. It's gonna pick up residual contamination.
Valvoline should be doing something more than sending you 6 new quarts but you'll probably have to push to get it.
You'll probably have to discard the next oil & filter, too. It's gonna pick up residual contamination.
Valvoline should be doing something more than sending you 6 new quarts but you'll probably have to push to get it.
I'll double that recommendation. If you don't want synthetic, go with Rotella T.
Thanks for the suggestion, I have read the thread on oilology several times and get mixed or confused thoughts on what type oil to use. I have also googled best oil for honda 1100 shadow and get a lot of different answers. I know a while back I had read on the forum about Shell Rotella T6 and it was highly recommended. Also Mobile 1, Amsoil and a few others. I stayed with Valvoline because its $3.98 at Walmart and I change my oil every 2,000 miles. I also believe if its not broke don't fix it but now I think it's time to change brand of oil.
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Those 6 quarts of the oil he is sending is enough to get that contaminated oil outta there, it most likely will flush it good...
Call back and see IF they will cover the cost of them filters, by sending more oil, too...
Good Luck,
D
Call back and see IF they will cover the cost of them filters, by sending more oil, too...
Good Luck,
D
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I'm going out on a limb here and going to suggest what we used to do 55 years ago when we didn't have all these fancy things on the market..
drain the oil and remove the filter, wash the filter in kerosene. now replace the drain plug and washed filter and fill to the correct level with kerosene, start the engine and run for ten minutes then switch off and drain the engine and remove the filter, If I'm right that should scrub all the oil ways and the sump, but you should find the state of the drained kerosene and the filter as good indicators.. now fit a new filter and the sump plug and fill with fresh oil.. the kerosene will leave a residue that will dilute the fresh oil so only run it for about 500 miles and then replace it and the filter again.
This will cost you a little more than a straight oil change so I suggest you get back to the person who is going to supply you with the six quarts and tell him what I suggested and ask him if he agrees that this solution will work.. If he agrees that it will work ask if he is willing to send another six quarts to compensate for the extra work involved.. It could turn out good for both of you..
John.
drain the oil and remove the filter, wash the filter in kerosene. now replace the drain plug and washed filter and fill to the correct level with kerosene, start the engine and run for ten minutes then switch off and drain the engine and remove the filter, If I'm right that should scrub all the oil ways and the sump, but you should find the state of the drained kerosene and the filter as good indicators.. now fit a new filter and the sump plug and fill with fresh oil.. the kerosene will leave a residue that will dilute the fresh oil so only run it for about 500 miles and then replace it and the filter again.
This will cost you a little more than a straight oil change so I suggest you get back to the person who is going to supply you with the six quarts and tell him what I suggested and ask him if he agrees that this solution will work.. If he agrees that it will work ask if he is willing to send another six quarts to compensate for the extra work involved.. It could turn out good for both of you..
John.
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It's not much more flammable than oil. Its only flammable if sprayed in a fine mist.
A friend of mine who is pretty knowledgable had mentioned before this happened that sometime when I change my oil I should add some seafoam 1/4 cup and let engine run for about 15 minutes then drain. Says it will clean oil passages. Has anyone heard of this? I am thinking of draining oil, changing filter, flushing with clean oil and a little seafoam, draining and then replacing oil filter and oil to Shell Rotella T6. Do you guys think this would get the crap out. I also googled valvoline oil filters to see if I could get them to send me a few, they don't make them for motorcycles. I will be calling them again and hopefully get a third rep and his or her input.
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It's never blown an engine I have used it on, waste oil is also highly flammable if used in a space heater..
I'm not too sure about gunk I think it might be detergent based and might have the wrong effect inside a closed space and agitated.. great for removing mud and old oil from the outside of an engine though..
As I said, I would phone the oil manufacturers and tell them all the conflicting advice you have had and ask their advice, after all it is their fault that this has happened, they will probably suggest a branded engine flush which will cost a bit more than kerosene.. On the plus side they probably market their own engine flush which they might supply to you free of charge..
John.
Let's see, recommended service interval is 8k miles but you opt for 2k because it ain't broke. In an effort to save money while excessively changing your oil, you opt for the cheapest oil readily available and now have yourself in a quandary over possible engine destruction. Do you see the fundamental flaw in your logical approach to routine maintenance?
Kinda what I was a thinkin' but...
I don't think you have contaminated the motor that badly. You bet there will be moisture in any crankcase this spring after a winter lay up thus I change mine in the spring 1 st. thing not before the winter layup but thats another thread/debate to be had before winter is up.
Drain all the crappy oil out of the bike and replace oil filter. Now buy 3 qts. of some low cost 10-40w oil that is compatible and 1 qt. of ATF (auto transmission fluid). Add the ATF 1st. and fill the rest with the 10-40w. Run the bike about a 100 miles and change. Inspect the oil for color (milkyness). This is a better method than kerosene method due to viscosity being there for lubrication properties. BTW 5,000 mi. is a good point to start monitoring oil breakdown/color change etc. Honda reccommends 8,000 mi.change.
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