[pippip]

So, I've run into a problem. I went to go grab some groceries, and when I went to start the bike, it cranked a couple times, and then stopped. Whenever I hit the stater button, I heard a click, but no cranking. I just thought the battery was dead, so just push started it quickly and went to the grocery store. Coming out, I hoped the ride had charged the battery, but had the same problem; no cranking just a click. I then tried to push start it, but for some reason I couldn't. I gave up after awhile, and took the short walk home. That night, I came back with my brother in his car to try to jump start it. Same problem, no cranking. Just to push start it with his help but no go.

What I think happened is the starter motor is dead/fried. The bike had been having some trouble cranking, like it would crank 1-3 times, and then stop even with the button pressed. Letting the button go and pressing it again would make it crank again. Probably a early warning I should have paid attention to. So my first question is did I make the right diagnosis? Secondly, is it possible to push start it if the stater motor is dead, and I'm just not doing it right? And finally, where to I go from here? I was doing a little research, and they have stater motors, and starter motor rebuild kits. I dunno if the starter solenoid is bad or not. And where should I get the new motor/rebuild kit? I took the battery out and brought it home to charge. Thanks guys.

 

[swifty2014]

Jump it with a good battery and test the starting all over again. If it still does the same thing I would try going directly to the starter wire and ground with some heavy wires to bypass the start relay, cables, connections, etc. If it still acts the same way you know it is the starter for sure.

 

[jack6251]

I'm no expert but slowly building up a good knowledge of basics so will try and help where I can.

I think we're going to need some info for the "pot".

What bike do you have, what's its year/age?

What does the battery voltage read at after a good charge?

Have you managed to remove the starter to check it, cleaned the connections etc?

How're the sparkplugs looking?

All fuses good with all dash lights ok? (just wondering about power pre start attempt).

Got a nice amount of miles on it?

Given the starter button a good clean? Contacts may be grubby.

I think the seasoned guys would want to know some of this, I hope you get it sorted out, there's nothing worse than having probs hang over you when you just want to ride.

 

[wlmmrtn]

First, to answer your questions, most likely your starter motor is going/gone bad, but you need to do some tests to make sure. Second, your starter motor has nothing really to do with push starting so if you're having problems with push starting it also then you may have more than one thing wrong, you're doing it right or you wouldn't have gotten it going when you headed to the store. Third, get to what you need to do in a sec. Last, you can purchase rebuild kits all over the internet and local parts stores. They are pretty cheap online, but don't buy one until you are sure you need to.

Next? Testing!!

I agree you need to find out what your charged battery voltage is currently as it may be dying. Since your motor isn't turning over no need to check your plugs. If you are hearing the click from your starter solenoid then your fuses for turning the motor over are good.

Anyways, take the different parts of the starting sequence separately. First you need to find out why your starter isn't turning, this could be from low battery voltage (has to be PRETTY low to not even turn the starter), bad connection, or bad solenoid.

To test if it has a bad connection at some point first jump the solenoid from battery side to the starter side with a pair of rubber handled pliers and see if the starter turns over. If it doesn't then take your multi-meter and measure the voltage on the starter side of the solenoid when you press the starter button. If you get battery voltage on the starter side of the solenoid then you don't have a connection problem in your harness or a bad connection in your switches, but you still need to check your voltage at the starter itself to make sure the voltage is getting there and clean all connections between solenoid and starter. If you have voltage all the way to the starter then you probably have a bad starter. If you do NOT have battery voltage at your starter side of the solenoid when you hit the starter button, but you can feel the solenoid "click" then you have a bad solenoid that isn't completing the connection from the battery to the starter side of the solenoid. If you do NOT have battery voltage on the starter side of the solenoid and it doesn't "click" then you need to unplug the solenoid harness and check for voltage on the terminal coming from the starter button (probably yellow/red). If you have voltage on the yellow/red then the solenoid is bad, if not check your starter button for a complete connection (continuity test).

This will get you started, but you need to tackle one part at a time. When you get your bike to turn over again then you can work further if it doesn't start.

 

[Backroads]

I agree with everyone

You've gotten good advice I would start with cheapest first based on the sequence of events sounds like battery totally ran out of juice either from internal battery failure or defective charging system ending in a completely flat battery. Did lights work?

 

[7xclm]

Make sure you have a good battery. Charge it then take it to a parts store for a load test. If it test bad replace the battery.

 

[pippip]

The bike is a 1984 vt500, with 38,000 miles. I had the battery load tested a few weeks ago and it was good. When I plugged it in last night to charge it read 12.8 volts. After charging it was at 13.2v. I just checked it this morning and it down a little to 13v. Light work fine, and all other electrical, but not the stater. I'll begin going through the testing you guys recommended. Is a stater motor rebuild a hard project? I don't have much experience with bikes, as this is my first, but I ain't afraid to get my hands dirty. Again, thanks for all the help.

 

[adlowe]

Is a stater motor rebuild a hard project? I don't have much experience with bikes, as this is my first, but I ain't afraid to get my hands dirty.

Stator?

Not hard. Not easy. Time consuming. DO NOT even think about attempting if you haven't got a torque wrench and the torque specs. Besides a new stator, you'll also need several gaskets. Make sure you have ALL the parts before you start. I'd want a genuine Honda Service Manual as well -- though I already have the one for my bike.

 

[swifty2014]

I have an 83 750 and it looks to be the same on yours, but the starter should come out and apart easily. You can find starter rebuild parts kits on ebay for cheap and look complete for the job.

Starter Rebuild Kit for Honda VT750C Shadow 1983 VT700C Shadow 1984 1987 | eBay

I think we were getting the stator and the starter mixed up.
The stator charges and the starter cranks the engine.

 

[John Hopkins]

The bike is a 1984 vt500, with 38,000 miles. I had the battery load tested a few weeks ago and it was good. When I plugged it in last night to charge it read 12.8 volts. After charging it was at 13.2v. I just checked it this morning and it down a little to 13v. Light work fine, and all other electrical, but not the stater. I'll begin going through the testing you guys recommended. Is a stater motor rebuild a hard project? I don't have much experience with bikes, as this is my first, but I ain't afraid to get my hands dirty. Again, thanks for all the help.

I think you mean Starter motor, ok your battery is good, and if when you took it off your bike to charge it read 12.8v then the charging system is good too. the thick red lead from the battery goes to the starter relay the thick black lead goes to the frame, if one of the ends of these leads is loose it will cause this problem..

Follow the thick red lead to the starter relay and then look at the relay the thick red lead will connect to one post on the relay, there will be another thick lead going away from the relay, you can link these together with a pair of pliers and the starter motor will run, you do not need the ignition on to do this, if you did not find a loose connection and the motor does not turn over you have a faulty motor, if the motor turns over you either have a faulty relay or an ignition circuit fault.

John.

 

[Furball Zen]

Um, did ya clean the starter switch FIRST??

 

["Captain D"]

When diagnosing electrical problems ALWAYS Start off with a FULLY Charged Battery...
Start at the battery; check all battery connections for tight & Clean, Good connections...

A loose or dirty connection will normally get warm/hot is a hint I like to give...

I do not understand why the Push start method didn`t work for you, but suspect loose/dirty/corroded battery or ground connection...

LLLL Bring it over, I can clear the lift in 12 minutes...

 

[jpr1968]

IMHO it sounds like the starter switch needs maintenance as Furball suggested.

 

["Captain D"]

IMHO it sounds like the starter switch needs maintenance as Furball suggested.

I was thinking the same jpr...
Curious why pushing didn`t get `er done???

 

[pippip]

I went back today and actually was able to get it push started. Dunno what the difference was, but I as least got her started. I'll start with the connections, and work down from there.

 

[spiritoftheshadow]

dont know why but im wondering maybe faulty carbs and flooding? reason i am thinking that is the no start on push. that age would be possible not to say theres nothing wrong with the starter too but if it were me i would be pulling the pugs and having a look see and cleaning the carbs too

 

["Captain D"]

Switch Cleaning 101 is a helpful tool when dealing with an intermittent starter switch...
Test it...
Push the button 10 times...
Does it perform correctly?
Does it have a "sweet spot" where it works well??

I`m not one to put parts on to diagnose a problem, I ain`t got extra Honda Buck$ to "throw at a problem"...

My offer is good, bring it over...
I can have the lift cleared in 10 minutes...
( I removed some things from the workbench yesterday)

Diagnose first,
Dennis

 

[cag40oz]

Any Updates on this issue?