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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
New to the forum here and to Honda motorcycles. I previously had Yamaha’s but recently purchased a 2002 Shadow 750 ACE. It came with pipes on it, K/N filter, jetted, and the bean box mod(had to look that up earlier). Was the loudest bike I have ever owned around 95DB at idle and 130+DB on the freeway, I had to wear earplugs which kinda is not fun. So first thing I did was buy some baffles(drag specialties I think they have the fiberglass around them). Totally quieted down the bike made it sound good but had to adjust the air fuel mix and had a dang hard time with it. I Am a previous profession diesel technician so I feel comfortable tackling anything mechanical on the bike. But I thought I had it dialed in yesterday, sounded good on idle no excessive popping on decel. Went to start it today and it did not want to smoke rich real bad. Started over and it did some weird revving (slowly climbing high) on its own that sounded like a vacuum leak but couldn’t find it. Outside temperature was about the same. Started from zero and got it running and idling, test drove an made a fine adjustment and sounds healthy. Is it normal for a little fuel to bubble out of the mix screws(not a lot but enough for a double take) ? I’m sitting at about 3 1/4 turns is that normal on a somewhat modified bike? Like I said just an intro and something general about the bike. Yes I have read through some pages of tuning and seen a lot of different outcomes on here but thanks for having me.
 

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Leaking fuel is definitely not normal. Are the O-rings, springs, and washers still on the screws? Now that you've added backpressure to your exhaust where it's tolerable, you may have to go back and rejet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The o rings and stuf still look intact on the adjuster screws. I was wondering if I had to rejet since I added the back pressure. Cause it would start up no problem before and it still starts up now I just gotta twist the throttle a little bit it don’t die and idles good. Problem is I don’t know what size jet the guy put in before so I wouldn’t know Th e appropriate step down. Will have to do some research.
 

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Or just go back to stock jets. I've never heard of a needed rejet because Honda didn't do it right. If you're 3 1/4 out, those may be stock jets in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hmmm ok I didn’t know what the factory limits of the jets were in relation to open pipes and intake that’s done on the bike, I was just going of what the previous owner said was done. I guess I’ll just ride it some more and see how it goes in terms of drivability. Bought some new adjuster screws and o ring kit and will see how it goes offer that. Thanks for the input. I guess in the meantime I’ll put the new bars on and try to get use to the grips that are on there now.
 

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The factory jets work fine with aftermarket exhaust and filters. Just make it a little more rich. The only reason I did a mild stage 1 rejet was just so I got a little better throttle response. None of it adds any appreciable power. Just a sharper throttle response and more noise.
 

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Think you may need to back down on jet size(if not factory) and right below 3 turns on air jets then readjust your idle. Lets us know how you coming.
 

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1999 Shadow 750 ACE VT750CD3 Modified
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2,450 Posts
It won't run above idle with stock jets with the Bean box mod on the filter box.
The only way to know what you have for jets is to read the numbers on them and then best guess as to brand.
Pay attention to the slide needles too, the cheap fix commonly seen is to shim the nail headed Honda needle with washers to raise it, decent aftermarket kits come with notched reprofiled replacement needles that use an E clip for adjustment and for a modded bike this is a better place to end up.

It is going to take some trial and error to get right.
My guess to get it running right would be to grab Keihin sized main jets in 128,130,132, 135 and 2 #42 slow/pilot jets. (this may be a part duplication of what is in there, but mains are usually cheap.)
I'd face the slide needles when I came to them and hope for a notched needle.
Keep the rear main jet 1 step richer than the front.
Check the float heights in the carbs.

Pulling the carbs is a long pain the first time and slowly improves with practice.
Take pictures and pay attention to routing of hoses and cables.

It is a great bike once you get it sorted and the intake/carb mods do add a tiny bit of power and improve response.

It always seems to be a hassle to go through previous owner's mods and try to figure out what was done.
That is the reason why people suggest getting a stock bike.
At some time in the future some poor soul could end up trying to figure out my 750 ACE's tuning. (-;
 

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2000 Honda Shadow Spirit VT1100C
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2,990 Posts
So many threads start off with.... "I just picked up a great running totally stock Honda and am ready for a season of being on the open road having fun! But someone talked me into taking a sawzall to the exhaust, gutting the air intake system, and ripping out the needles and jets that were obviously put in by Honda to prohibit me from having maximum fun. So I did! Got a kit from TJ Brutal Customs and installed it. Now... Can anyone help me figure out why my bike won't run for crap now that I've butchered it? I really want to experience the fun of riding before the season ends."

These are my favorite threads.
 

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1999 Shadow 750 ACE VT750CD3 Modified
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2,450 Posts
So many threads start off with.... "I just picked up a great running totally stock Honda and am ready for a season of being on the open road having fun! But someone talked me into taking a sawzall to the exhaust, gutting the air intake system, and ripping out the needles and jets that were obviously put in by Honda to prohibit me from having maximum fun. So I did! Got a kit from TJ Brutal Customs and installed it. Now... Can anyone help me figure out why my bike won't run for crap now that I've butchered it? I really want to experience the fun of riding before the season ends."

These are my favorite threads.
Thanks @Chuck_Michigan, I regurgitated some coffee on the cat and almost rolled off the stool onto the floor.
It needs a Mad Magazine style "logic" flow chart.
 

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1999 Shadow 750 ACE VT750CD3 Modified
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2,450 Posts
I'm afraid my artistic abilities won't cut it.
My hands won't play along to transfer the picture in my head.
 

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2007 VT750DC Spirit “chopper”
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683 Posts
I'm afraid my artistic abilities won't cut it.
My hands won't play along to transfer the picture in my head.
Have that same issue, my older brother is an insane artist and it drives me nuts that he can perfectly represent what is in his head to others.
 

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and the flow chart blocks would have stuff like: did you mess with it? y or n? N= Good! DONT. jump to end Y > does anybody know? y or n? Y = too bad N= blame vandals...
 

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2000 Honda Shadow Spirit VT1100C
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2,990 Posts
and the flow chart blocks would have stuff like: did you mess with it? y or n? N= Good! DONT. jump to end Y > does anybody know? y or n? Y = too bad N= blame vandals...
Yepppppp.

One of the decision boxes should read.... "Was it acting up like this before you fixed it"?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Kinda nice to be on a active forum and I appreciate the advice I can’t really tell if “chuck Michigan” is making fun of me for whatever reason. The only thing I done was quite the bike down with baffled and it started running different so I needed to tune it a little and was having a time dialing it it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It won't run above idle with stock jets with the Bean box mod on the filter box.
The only way to know what you have for jets is to read the numbers on them and then best guess as to brand.
Pay attention to the slide needles too, the cheap fix commonly seen is to shim the nail headed Honda needle with washers to raise it, decent aftermarket kits come with notched reprofiled replacement needles that use an E clip for adjustment and for a modded bike this is a better place to end up.

It is going to take some trial and error to get right.
My guess to get it running right would be to grab Keihin sized main jets in 128,130,132, 135 and 2 #42 slow/pilot jets. (this may be a part duplication of what is in there, but mains are usually cheap.)
I'd face the slide needles when I came to them and hope for a notched needle.
Keep the rear main jet 1 step richer than the front.
Check the float heights in the carbs.

Pulling the carbs is a long pain the first time and slowly improves with practice.
Take pictures and pay attention to routing of hoses and cables.

It is a great bike once you get it sorted and the intake/carb mods do add a tiny bit of power and improve response.

It always seems to be a hassle to go through previous owner's mods and try to figure out what was done.
That is the reason why people suggest getting a stock bike.
At some time in the future some poor soul could end up trying to figure out my 750 ACE's tuning. (-;
Thank you! What’s the purpose of leaving the rear main jet 1 step richer?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Is is a #42 jet a slow jet or does it have to say #42 slow jet? Ordering jets and mains so I have room to find the right combo cause that’s what it looks like after hearing all y’all’s advice and what I been suspecting but wanted to go through the steps first.
 
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