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I thought it was low too, just checked. the factory Yuasa battery was 8.4 Amp/hr

The dying may have been from kickstand not up all the way, that usually kills it immediately when putting in gear.
 
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The R/R is not connected to the starting circuit other than it's output goes to the battery. I'd suspect a dirty start button contact problem. several pushes rubs a spot clean enough to work?

Edit: look at the switch cleaning sticky post
 

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One thing that helped my 1100's cold-start issues was to re-gap the plugs down to .028 (In hindsight, I believe the root cause was a low charging system output, battery never getting to full charge), it was just that much easier to get the plugs to fire with the narrower gap that it usually fired the 1st try. as opposed to 3 or 4 tries, then having to jump it. A combination of low voltage while cranking, a wider gap being just that much harder to get the spark to jump.

I eventually replaced the rectifier and stator, changing the gap made it work for most of a year in the meantime.( steady 14.2 voltage now unless stopped with brakelight on and turn signals going at idle, my idle is probably just too low, a 50 rpm increase gets it back in the green).

I've since realized it makes no sense to gap the plugs at the widest spec, the gap is only going to get wider as the plugs wear. (except maybe the Iridium or platinum ones, a much longer lasting material.) I did gap my Iridium plugs at .028 Wonder if mechanics always saying to gap them at the wider end of the spec was just to get you back in for a tune-up sooner?

won't cost anything but time to try and it has worked for me and others.
 

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And don't feel too bad about the spring, I've got one laying somewhere in a motel parking lot in New Mexico. soldered a jumper across the headlight contacts to get home and bought a new switch assembly when I got back to Missouri.
 

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92 to 98 years would work, so that one is good, has the screws with it., I'd still (very carefully, on a towel so the springs don't bounce) clean and lube it when it arrives.
 

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I'd call that normal and not very old actually. They are not the iridium plugs. The center electrode is still perfectly flat with a sharp edge, no sign of wear. Put it back and check the others. Or replace with the Iridium plugs, people have reported easier starting with them. (and a longer plug life.)
 
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back to spark plugs: NGK - FAQ click on the 1st link: ' how do I read a spark plug ' and scroll down, pictures of each condition. note how the center electrode is just starting to wear on example 1 and 7 is much more worn.
 
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