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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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It may be dielectric grease put in there.
Otherwise yes cut out the connector and splice directly for the best connection.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
It may be dielectric grease put in there.
Otherwise yes cut out the connector and splice directly for the best connection.
Hey Swift,

Thanks so much for all your help so far. I think splicing the wires is my best bet. I picked up a digital multimeter and checked the stator connection. All three lines beeped for a continuity test, and none came back grounded. While I was doing the test, I noticed the two vertical prongs moved pretty easily and there was a serious amount of gunk built up inside. Also grabbed a 2amp charger/maintainer as suggested.

Really appreciate you all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
So I went ahead and connected all the wires directly. The bike still takes a couple of tries to start, but I'm hoping maybe that's a factor of the cold weather. The battery still drops in voltage a bit when starting the bike, but goes up into the 13v when revving. Took her out for a quick 20min ride today and at the end the battery was at 12.77v. She still seems to hesitate in first gear, but that could be me. This is my first motorcycle and I'm questioning whether I'm shifting too soon/too late. If there are any follow up tests or things I should check on I'm open too any suggestions.

Thank you all again. Huge help.
 

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'83 VT750C
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That sounds like the battery performance you’re looking for. Test it a few more times over the coming weeks to make sure those numbers stay consistent, and you’re good. Your hesitation could be completely unrelated! As for your shifting, it all depends on how much gas you’re giving it, uphill/downhill, etc… If you don’t have a tach, a good rule of thumb is about 4-5 seconds of ‘normal’ acceleration in every gear. Don’t worry too much about short-shifting. These engines are made more for torque at the low-end, so not much sense revving them out unless you really want to hurry! You’ll get to know it by ear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
That sounds like the battery performance you’re looking for. Test it a few more times over the coming weeks to make sure those numbers stay consistent, and you’re good. Your hesitation could be completely unrelated! As for your shifting, it all depends on how much gas you’re giving it, uphill/downhill, etc… If you don’t have a tach, a good rule of thumb is about 4-5 seconds of ‘normal’ acceleration in every gear. Don’t worry too much about short-shifting. These engines are made more for torque at the low-end, so not much sense revving them out unless you really want to hurry! You’ll get to know it by ear.
Hey Troy,
Thanks. I will keep an eye on the numbers for sure. Would you mind explaining your torque on the low end statement? When I accelerate it seems to be working really hard from 0-15mph, then struggles at 20mph everytime, but once it hits 25 it takes off and sounds and feels a lot better.
 

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99' Valkyrie/North Central Indiana
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Shaft driven vtwins need a little more winding out so to speak compared to belt/chain driven variants. They don't like to be lugged down on rpm. You just need to get some time riding and learn its nuances.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Shaft driven vtwins need a little more winding out so to speak compared to belt/chain driven variants. They don't like to be lugged down on rpm. You just need to get some time riding and learn its nuances.
Okay, thanks. I assumed it possibly had more to do with me than it did with the bike itself. I really appreciate the input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
So I have one last battery question if anyone is game.

When I hook up my voltage reader to the battery, as soon as I turn the ignition to on, the voltage drops a bit, but still stays over 12. However, when I turn the bike on and go to hit the start button, there's no reaction at all the first two times I press it, not a noise, nothing. Then it will try to start and it is still taking a couple of times to do so and the headlights and turn signals dim and the battery will drop as low as 9.v

Is there something other than the wires or battery I should check? I have read a bit on these forums and others suggested replacing the r/r all together and others mentioned checking other connections. Is it normal for the bike to take that much from the battery to start up?

Thank you all again so much for the help. It's been huge.
 

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2013 Honda Shadow Phantom 750
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If you have a electric fuel pump it is most likely running to pressurize the system the first couple of times you turn the key on. Then by the third time the system is up to pressure and the pump does not come on.

The voltage dropping like you said could be caused by the age of the equipment, extra resistance in the wiring due to age, or a small capacity battery.

Not much you can do for the age of the parts other than replace everything.

You could clean all the connections from the battery to the starter if you have not already done so. Also find all the ground wires that attach to the frame and remove and clean those.

You may want to see if you can find a higher capacity (Ah rating) battery that is the same physical size as the one you have now. Also note the terminal locations. I would spend money on this before replacing the starter, relay, or wiring.

As for shifting,,,many answers depending on the situation. As a general rule for “regular” acceleration I shirt out of 1st around 10-15 mph then around 10 mph for the rest of the gears.

Eric


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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
If you have a electric fuel pump it is most likely running to pressurize the system the first couple of times you turn the key on. Then by the third time the system is up to pressure and the pump does not come on.

The voltage dropping like you said could be caused by the age of the equipment, extra resistance in the wiring due to age, or a small capacity battery.

Not much you can do for the age of the parts other than replace everything.

You could clean all the connections from the battery to the starter if you have not already done so. Also find all the ground wires that attach to the frame and remove and clean those.

You may want to see if you can find a higher capacity (Ah rating) battery that is the same physical size as the one you have now. Also note the terminal locations. I would spend money on this before replacing the starter, relay, or wiring.

As for shifting,,,many answers depending on the situation. As a general rule for “regular” acceleration I shirt out of 1st around 10-15 mph then around 10 mph for the rest of the gears.

Eric


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey Phant,

Super appreciate your response. I will look up some wiring diagrams to find all the wiring suggestions you made. As well as look into better batteries than the basic one I have now.

Thank you again
 

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The R/R is not connected to the starting circuit other than it's output goes to the battery. I'd suspect a dirty start button contact problem. several pushes rubs a spot clean enough to work?

Edit: look at the switch cleaning sticky post
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
The R/R is not connected to the starting circuit other than it's output goes to the battery. I'd suspect a dirty start button contact problem. several pushes rubs a spot clean enough to work?

Edit: look at the switch cleaning sticky post
Hey Oldie,

I took a look and read through that whole thread. I'm going to pick up some contact cleaner and grease. Thanks for the suggestion , I really appreciate it.
 

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You could also try connecting a non-running car battery using booster cables, and see if the bike tries to start right away. That would point the finger at the battery for sure. Always worth cleaning the switches, though!

I’ll have to watch it a little as my bike has both more power AND a tachometer compared to yours. One stupid question. Are you SURE you’re in first gear? A member of a sports car group I belonged to had that same problem. ‘No power in first until it’s up to speed.’ I helped him figure out that his first gear was really third, since he’d put the wrong bracket on his shift cables! Because in first gear, twisting the throttle at anything beyond walking speed should give you all the power you need. It’s not a ton compared to other bikes, but it should be enough that you don’t consider it ‘bogging’ to 25mph. So if the bike is idling, you give it a little less than 1/4 turn of throttle and let out the clutch to get it rolling, with the clutch fully out at around 5mph you should be able to give it 3/4 to full throttle (watch out in front!) and the bike should GO. If it doesn’t, if it hesitates or bogs, then you’re in the wrong gear, or you have an air/fuel mixture problem. I would say the engine should be turning 3,000 rpm or so in first at 5 mph?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
You could also try connecting a non-running car battery using booster cables, and see if the bike tries to start right away. That would point the finger at the battery for sure. Always worth cleaning the switches, though!

I’ll have to watch it a little as my bike has both more power AND a tachometer compared to yours. One stupid question. Are you SURE you’re in first gear? A member of a sports car group I belonged to had that same problem. ‘No power in first until it’s up to speed.’ I helped him figure out that his first gear was really third, since he’d put the wrong bracket on his shift cables! Because in first gear, twisting the throttle at anything beyond walking speed should give you all the power you need. It’s not a ton compared to other bikes, but it should be enough that you don’t consider it ‘bogging’ to 25mph. So if the bike is idling, you give it a little less than 1/4 turn of throttle and let out the clutch to get it rolling, with the clutch fully out at around 5mph you should be able to give it 3/4 to full throttle (watch out in front!) and the bike should GO. If it doesn’t, if it hesitates or bogs, then you’re in the wrong gear, or you have an air/fuel mixture problem. I would say the engine should be turning 3,000 rpm or so in first at 5 mph?
Hey Troy,
I tried the booster cables. It still took a couple of tries to get the bike going, so I'm going to assume the battery might not be the main problem.

I've been reading around online and wondering if my next stop should be the starter relay under the seat? If I'm understanding properly, it seems that if those connections are no good that it can cause some of the similar issues I'm experiencing.

As for gears, I'm pretty positive I am in first gear. I did order a gear shift indicator but haven't connected it due to the starting problem. I didn't want to demand more power from the battery in case that was my issue. If I shift to second before 20mph, it seems to struggle there, and if I rev it to 20mph and then shift to second, it sounds like it's overworking. Regardless, once it hits 25mph there is a definite change in the way the bike runs, it picks up torque immediately and takes off.
 

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Can you go over the symptoms again? The way I read the thread you are having 2 issues: 1) hard starting 2) poor performance at low speed. If you can clarify these issues might be better:

1. Hard starting ie you press starter button and nothing or just slow turnover.
What happens with lights etc.
Does it start badly after warmed up ie after your 20 minute ride?
Are you using Full choke; No throttle to start? ( I think that is the procedure throughout the 1995 lineup)

2. Poor performance at low speed.
What happens if you just stand beside the bike in neutral and let it idle then throttle up?
What happens in 2nd gear idle and the throttle up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Can you go over the symptoms again? The way I read the thread you are having 2 issues: 1) hard starting 2) poor performance at low speed. If you can clarify these issues might be better:

1. Hard starting ie you press starter button and nothing or just slow turnover.
What happens with lights etc.
Does it start badly after warmed up ie after your 20 minute ride?
Are you using Full choke; No throttle to start? ( I think that is the procedure throughout the 1995 lineup)

2. Poor performance at low speed.
What happens if you just stand beside the bike in neutral and let it idle then throttle up?
What happens in 2nd gear idle and the throttle up?
Sure thing.

1) When I go from a cold start, I turn on the petcock, ignition, choke, turn the bike to run, pull in the clutch and then press the start button. Usually I press it twice with no reaction at all. Then I keep pressing it and it will start sounding like it wants to start and will progressively sound like it wants to start more the more I try until it eventually turns over. I've done this all with the voltage meter and the battery will progressively drop to 10. - 9.v while trying to start it. It will say the battery is dead, but then creeps back up once the bike is on and begins to idle; usually up towards 13v. Once it's on, I let it sit for a couple of seconds and then close the choke. If I give it any throttle right after it starts it sputters and then shuts off, but if I let it warm up a bit and then give it a little throttle (all while it's still in neutral) it sounds a bit better.

The headlight and turn signals go almost completely off when trying to start the bike, and will do so everytime I press the ignition button, but then run fine once the bike is going.

If I go for a 20 minute ride, come home, shut her down completely and then go to restart - she starts right up. I recorded a video of all of this but not sure how to post it here.

And to reiterate, yes, I use the choke when starting the bike, but close it once the bike is running at idle in neutral.

2) I think I may have answered this in the first part, but if I try to give any throttle when the bike is first turn on (choke closed in neutral) it will sputter and then dies, but will often restart with the switch pressed in.

I'm not sure if I'm understanding this correctly, but I don't usually idle in second gear. If I'm coming to a complete stop I downshift to first. If I'm misunderstanding your question please let me know so I can better answer it.

Appreciate any and all help given.
 

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Sounds like everything is working properly except maybe let it run on choke a little longer like 2 mins. The lights are suppose to go out as there is a relay that does this to allow full battery to start it. As for low speed performance, I'd run a half of can of Berryman B12 to a near empty tank and fill with fresh gas and go riding @ lower rpm. and see if that improves your performance. Might take a couple tanks. Be patient as at least it runs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Sounds like everything is working properly except maybe let it run on choke a little longer like 2 mins. The lights are suppose to go out as there is a relay that does this to allow full battery to start it. As for low speed performance, I'd run a half of can of Berryman B12 to a near empty tank and fill with fresh gas and go riding @ lower rpm. and see if that improves your performance. Might take a couple tanks. Be patient as at least it runs.
Thanks for the response.
I recently let it get to almost reserve and then put half a can of seafoam in with a full tank of fresh gas. I've only been able to ride it about 10 miles since - short local rides. It's winter here, so riding days are hit or miss, but I will keep the lower rpm's suggestion in mind for the future. Appreciate it.
 
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