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Hey Eric,

I've changed spark plugs before on a moped, never a motorcycle. In your mechanic opinion, how important is it to use a torque wrench for it, meaning to provide the proper amount of torque value ? I've heard/read a lot of mixed reviews split down the middle with hand tightening vs using a digital torque wrench.
If someone has used a torque wrench enough they can guesstimate the torque well enough. I use torque wrenches often especially when working with aluminum. If you do not feel comfortable doing it that way i would suggest using a torque wrench. I would suggest a 3/8” drive “click” type, you don’t have to have digital. If you plan to do a good bit of work on your bike it will be a good investment.

Eric


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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
So there's great news and wtf news.

Great news - I cleaned all the contact points of the starter switch, which was gross and covered in old sticky, tar like, grease. She now starts on the first try, every try. CANNOT thank those enough for the simple suggestion and fix.

However, I got so excited at how simple and great it worked, that I decided to do my turn signals. They get stuck often. Figured it couldn't hurt. But now my headlight, highbeam, and back blinkers don't work. It all worked before, so I know it's on me. There was a microscopic spring behind the headlight contact that I dropped and am sure it will never be found again. I guess I'll be looking for a new set unless anyone has any other suggestions.

Torque wrench will be in Wednesday for the spark plugs.

You guys are my favorites.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
So there's great news and wtf news.

Great news - I cleaned all the contact points of the starter switch, which was gross and covered in old sticky, tar like, grease. She now starts on the first try, every try. CANNOT thank those enough for the simple suggestion and fix.

However, I got so excited at how simple and great it worked, that I decided to do my turn signals. They get stuck often. Figured it couldn't hurt. But now my headlight, highbeam, and back blinkers don't work. It all worked before, so I know it's on me. There was a microscopic spring behind the headlight contact that I dropped and am sure it will never be found again. I guess I'll be looking for a new set unless anyone has any other suggestions.

Torque wrench will be in Wednesday for the spark plugs.

You guys are my favorites.
Just to clarify this. The back break lights don't stay on, they only come on when I activate the turn signal switch. The front ones stay on the whole time as well as blink. The front headlamp doesn't work at all, regardless of high or low beam switch activated. Pretty sure the small spring I dropped is what forced the contact up to meet the button. That's my best guess.
 

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Are you talking about the single brake light on the fender doesn't work?
If you mean the two lamps with the turn signals in the rear, they do no come on as brake lights from the factory.
Only if someone has modified the sockets.
The front ones do have a dual filament bulbs and are running lights and turn signals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Are you talking about the single brake light on the fender doesn't work?
If you mean the two lamps with the turn signals in the rear, they do no come on as brake lights from the factory.
Only if someone has modified the sockets.
The front ones do have a dual filament bulbs and are running lights and turn signals.
No, they stay off unless I turn on one of the turn signals, and then they blink. So to understand correctly, they are not running lights and only come on as turn signals? The brake light works fine. So if the back turn signals are suppose to be staying off until the turn signal switch is activated, then the only concern is the front headlight. As I said, I assume the spring that I dropped is what props the contact point high enough to meet the switch. I'm guessing a new one is in order, unfortunately.
 

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So there's great news and wtf news.

Great news - I cleaned all the contact points of the starter switch, which was gross and covered in old sticky, tar like, grease. She now starts on the first try, every try. CANNOT thank those enough for the simple suggestion and fix.

However, I got so excited at how simple and great it worked, that I decided to do my turn signals. They get stuck often. Figured it couldn't hurt. But now my headlight, highbeam, and back blinkers don't work. It all worked before, so I know it's on me. There was a microscopic spring behind the headlight contact that I dropped and am sure it will never be found again. I guess I'll be looking for a new set unless anyone has any other suggestions.

Torque wrench will be in Wednesday for the spark plugs.

You guys are my favorites.
One extra comment on the torque wrench. There are usually two scales on torque wrenches, ft lbs and Nm (Newton Meters), make sure you are on the correct scale.

Eric


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I’ve never used a torque wrench, but since I was young I was pretty good at estimating the amount of torque I was using with a regular wrench or ratchet. Of course, since getting older… “Yeah, that’s about 60lbs!” Measures about 30lbs with torque wrench 🤦‍♂️ In the case of spark plugs, I always just brought them in so they wouldn’t turn anymore without force, and then ‘cinched’ them to about 15-20ft-lbs. The plug itself would just barely move any extra. Even if you’re not strong, so long as the plug isn’t rattling around in the bore and seals, you should be good! Maybe re-check after a bit of running.

Maybe sweep the area with a borrowed magnetic sweeper to find that spring? The problem is they bounce when they hit the floor, and wind up somewhere in Paraguay… 😳
 

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It's unfortunate that you lost parts thus a new assembly is still available. This is the cheapest OEM site by $40 over Partzilla.

 

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And don't feel too bad about the spring, I've got one laying somewhere in a motel parking lot in New Mexico. soldered a jumper across the headlight contacts to get home and bought a new switch assembly when I got back to Missouri.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
I’ve never used a torque wrench, but since I was young I was pretty good at estimating the amount of torque I was using with a regular wrench or ratchet. Of course, since getting older… “Yeah, that’s about 60lbs!” Measures about 30lbs with torque wrench 🤦‍♂️ In the case of spark plugs, I always just brought them in so they wouldn’t turn anymore without force, and then ‘cinched’ them to about 15-20ft-lbs. The plug itself would just barely move any extra. Even if you’re not strong, so long as the plug isn’t rattling around in the bore and seals, you should be good! Maybe re-check after a bit of running.

Maybe sweep the area with a borrowed magnetic sweeper to find that spring? The problem is they bounce when they hit the floor, and wind up somewhere in Paraguay… 😳
My thoughts exactly. I have someone I can borrow one from, I plan on trying it today, but it's been pretty windy so I'm not too hopeful. But can't hurt before buying a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
It's unfortunate that you lost parts thus a new assembly is still available. This is the cheapest OEM site by $40 over Partzilla.

Thanks. I'm going to try a magnetic sweeper first with fingers crossed. If not, I already did a bit of poking around online last night. Ebay has a brand new OEM one for $80 or I can go the used, in working condition, route for about $35-40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
And don't feel too bad about the spring, I've got one laying somewhere in a motel parking lot in New Mexico. soldered a jumper across the headlight contacts to get home and bought a new switch assembly when I got back to Missouri.
Oh well my spring is joined by a machine screw somewhere, so at least it's not lonely. 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
watch which replacement you get. I think all four of the switchbox screws are a different length.

Edit: In the wrong holes, they can bottom out or only be in by a couple threads and strip the housing

Yep, check here 1995 Honda VT600CD A HANDLE SWITCH | Ron Ayers

28 SCREW, PAN (5X20)

93500-05020-0B

$0.97
$0.95

29 SCREW, PAN (5X22)

93500-05022-0B

$1.01
$0.95

30 SCREW, PAN (5X25)

93500-05025-0B

$0.95

31 SCREW, PAN (5X32)

93500-05032-0B

$1.11
$0.95
This is one that I found on Ebay. Says it's in working condition, off a '96.

 

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92 to 98 years would work, so that one is good, has the screws with it., I'd still (very carefully, on a towel so the springs don't bounce) clean and lube it when it arrives.
 

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If you have an old cig lighter you might take out the spring and it may be small enough.
Cut and stretch as a temporary repair maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
So I pulled one of the spark plugs. It came from the right side (sitting) of the front Cylinder. I've attached some photos here. I'm not sure how oily or dark it is or isn't suppose to look, so any guidance here would be greatly appreciated. The boot itself looked in good condition. I have pulled any of the other ones yet, but I can if it would help. Also, it does seem to be gapped around .28, maybe even a little less.
 

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I'd call that normal and not very old actually. They are not the iridium plugs. The center electrode is still perfectly flat with a sharp edge, no sign of wear. Put it back and check the others. Or replace with the Iridium plugs, people have reported easier starting with them. (and a longer plug life.)
 
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