Honda Shadow Forums banner

21 - 35 of 35 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,428 Posts
At this point, I think i'd be checking battery cables. If they're original, and I'm guessing they are, they can look just fine and be rotten as hell inside the sheathing near the ends. Some member with a meter and a couple jumper wires close enough to offer up a hand?
 

·
Registered
1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
Joined
·
13,845 Posts
The diodes are for the starting system, not involved in main power.
If you have no power at all, the main fuse feeds the 4 wire connection on the starter solenoid, then to the ignition switch.Then fuses box.
Some guys have had a burned connection on the start solenoid plug in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Well.... This problem started when the neutral indicator stopped illuminating and the bike wouldn't start. I did have lights at that point. Even when I put the kickstand up and pulled the clutch in, no start. So I followed the light blue/orange wires from the speedometer, around the front and under the tank. I pulled the gas tank off and found the plug connector. Followed the light blue wire down looking for the neutral switch. Took the left front side cover off and I think I located the neutral switch. Started pokin around with the multimeter. When I turned the key on again, no lights - no nothin. Not sure what I could have done between the speedometer and the switch to kill off the rest of the electrical... but then again, I seem to be pretty talented when it comes to initiating the mysterious. Y'know - I can pull the back wheel off in record time. I change the oil, fluids. I replaced the fuel pump and filter. There's not much I haven't done to this bike since I've had it. And I'm not aftraid to learn or get greasy. But son-of-a-biscuit-eater I am clueless when it comes to electrical. Boo!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
The diodes won't kill the lights though. just the start button. Think of diodes as one way check valves.

yep, switfy's start circuitry attachment on post #14 in this thread. though I'm questioning the green/red wire path in that diagram.. .will check my shop manual in a bit after I eat. He shows a jumper wire added around the diodes to prove them good or bad. Can't say what the thing looked like really. the green/red stripe wire from the solenoid goes to it as does the neutral switch wire, some kind of small black plastic box with 3 wires maybe. . The diodes won't kill the lights though.just the start button. I'd re-check that main fuse in the start solenoid. I believe some of these have a spare 30A fuse stored that gets "checked" sometimes. I'll pm you my cell # if you have questions...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
According to the Clymer manual, your diode assembly is plugged in to a harness pigtail by the main wiring junction box under the front of the tank. Small rectangular thing with 3 wires Green/red, Light green/red and green/white (or yellow, cant tell)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
According to the Clymer manual, your diode assembly is plugged in to a harness pigtail by the main wiring junction box under the front of the tank. Small rectangular thing with 3 wires Green/red, Light green/red and green/white (or yellow, cant tell)
Great timing on your msg. I was just telling a buddy this afternoon that I'm ready to roll the bike up onto the trailer and dump it off at a shop for someone else to eff with (would be a 1st). Thanks for the 411. I'll jump back on this nightmare challenge tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
However after studying the schematic in the clymer manual., you have 3 diodes, both up under the tank, a 2 wire clutch diode, green/red wires and the 3 wire side stand diode with 2 in it, colors mentioned earlier. I am scanning these pages and will put them in a private conversation to you, Newer models don't seem to have 3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
I strongly urge you to get a factory manual. They seem more complete.
I have a factory manual for my Tourer, it does not cover the Ace. I usually buy both as the factory manual is for a fully equipped shop and will say stuff like "use Honda service tool xxxxxx" while Clymer or Haynes will tell you how to get it done and say something like "use a blind hole bearing puller" or "use a hammer and block of wood,,," I've never found Chilton's manuals to be as good as the others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
After reading it several more times, this Clymer's is not real clear on where the diodes are for the 95 Ace though. It does say some models had the diodes in the fuse box...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
As painful and difficult as it was, I gave up on repairing this and hauled the bike to a repair shop. I just wanna get on the ol' B with an itch and ride while life gives me the opportunity and means.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
Awwww, Well sometimes it's faster and maybe less expensive in the long run.. let us know what they find.
 
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
Top