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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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Crazy how we are all trying to help one another keep our bikes running well, and we argue about oils. Then it all gets settled down, and the manufacturers change the specs, and we have to regroup all over again.

If you have 16 minutes and need a chuckle watch this oil video.

 

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1983 vt750c
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On the one hand u act like u know everything, but then you recommend not to use washers (which is :poop: ) to use diesel additives (??), and behave quite ignorant. I think you read the wrong the wrong books.
I do act like that mainly because I have a lot of knowledge on a wide range of subjects. The more knowledge you have on a subject the easier life can be. Though ignorance is bliss in some cases. With my tdi I always add hot shots diesel oil and fuel additive as this is a must with diesels, keeps injectors clean all oil passages clear including stock and aftermarket oil coolers, it also believe it coats the walls with a corrosion inhibitor I'll have to read their page again. Added about an ounce to the last oil change I did to the bike about 2 months ago and put almost 1K miles on the bike since and had no issues with the clutch could be the friction inhibitor the royal purple oil I use has or could be the fact that the additive doesnt cause issues with the internal clutch on my specific bike. I dont recommend washers because they literally serve no purpose IMO. If you torque the bolt to the right spec and ensure the threads are not stripped or warn out then you wont have a leak no bolt properly installed will ever leak or shift during operation. I was trained this way when I went through tech school. Oil additives will not destroy an engine in fact it will aid in the purpose of the oil. The only additive that will definitely destroy an engine is a stop leak fluid as this would expand the seals causing them to over expand and break especially if they are old and near cracking range.

Btw dont tell me how to act when you legit cursed in your own emoji way. Dont be a hypocrite.
 

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1983 vt750c
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Perhaps you did go too scientific for me (just kidding) however ambient temperature and climate are 2 different things. Your manual has an asterisk next to the spark plug heat recommendation and that may be confusing you. Underneath it states "Cold Weather Climate 5C". Climate is a long term average temperature over a specific period ie 30 years. I tried various cities and ended up with Juneau Alaska climate average 4.8C . My climate in Vancouver is 11C
So:
1. Those tests were both synthetics as compared to your statement of synth vs conventional. Not quite a lab test. If you want to look at an oil that may run down a tube faster look at the oil PDS for pour point. If you really want an oil that reaches parts quickly at cold temp use a 0W. Personally I stick with 10W40
2. Additives: I quoted Chevron because you use their products. Are you going to provide any facts that conventional oil contains no additives?
3. Spark plug heat range: Ambient temperature and climate are not the same.
4. Magnetic drain plug: I don't think mine is.
5. Drain Plug Sealing washer: "I've never owned any vehicle or motorcycle that's used a sealing washer." I don't know your model so maybe true. Partzilla is good for a parts cross reference in case your manual is inaccurate.

G.
The manual most likely references climate for those random days where it will drop below 40 then be higher later in the day or the next day ie the past few weeks in NJ. But I would think they would give that information as an ambient due to seasonal change for those who ride I wouldn't think anyone who lived or lives in an area that's been at or below 40 for over 30 years would own a motorcycle and if they do they got bigger nuggets then anyone. Granted I ride when its 40 or below especially if my daily's dont start or hung up waiting for parts and I need to get to work or want to have some fun with my girl.

1. Yea didnt compare the two conv and synth but was a good video to show flow rate of different oils. Probably could have found a better one but watched that a couple weeks ago and it popped in my mind during this convo.
2. Was going to skip this again but found a few interesting articles. Synthetic oil vs. conventional oil | Mobil™
Both state that synthetic oil flows better under cold conditions and in general. Both state convention oil has impurities (did not know that fact) that alone solidifies my reason to use full synthetic. Both state they do no have any additives. In the long run synthetic is better for your engine period end of story.
3. I did a test when I first got my bike to see if there is a difference when using the two different plugs and the bike warmed up and stayed warm longer with the colder climate plugs. Test was around 10f. So I use them to ensure proper operating temp during the colder season as I never winterize my bikes.
4. Next time you do an oil change look at the bolt some have the magnet inside the actual bolt it self and then the end of the bolt is sort of clamped to ensure the magnet doesnt fall out. If you dont see it then grab a peice of metal not aluminum and see if the bolt attracts it.
5. First oil change didnt have a washer and bike bandit nor partzilla shows it as an option to purchase if needed to for my year bike.
 

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Dude! You sure like using additives don't you. It makes no sense (to me) how you would recommend putting additives in everything, yet be disdainful of using a 30 cent washer whe pretty much every manufacturers service manual calls for one. To each his own though, just doesn't make sense to me, but hey... someone has to buy all those additives on the shelf.
 

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Dude! You sure like using additives don't you. It makes no sense (to me) how you would recommend putting additives in everything, yet be disdainful of using a 30 cent washer whe pretty much every manufacturers service manual calls for one. To each his own though, just doesn't make sense to me, but hey... someone has to buy all those additives on the shelf.
Oh yes the more it will help the more I like it lol. Dont shop in person I'm an online guy cause I'm the laziest person on earth. My uncle and grandfather love addtives so I probably get it from them but when I went through tech school I was told never to use the washers as they cause more issues then their intended for. As long as you tighten it to spec and ensure threads are clean and aren't warn then you'll be fine. Only once had a plug leak but that's because the PO of the car it had an issue with prob never did an oil change in his life and the threads were crossed. Though it is preference for the washer I've never had one in a manual tell me to use them but again I've never used a manual to do an oil change just second nature for me. Never had a car or bike that had it on from stock.
 

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I have a lot of knowledge on a wide range of subjects.

I dont recommend washers because they literally serve no purpose IMO.

no bolt properly installed will ever leak

I was trained this way when I went through tech school.
You make me smile so big.

Thank You,
John
 

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VT 1100c 1994
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Btw dont tell me how to act when you legit cursed in your own emoji way. Dont be a hypocrite.
Again, you don't understand the point:
If you telling an experienced biker to add a certain additive it might be ok, but as you can see, a noob is asking for help, and he may get into trouble, because the oil screw is leaking or the clutch is slipping. I have postet the ? for a reason. You can use any additive, and it's cool when it works out. I can imagine, that, as long as the clutch is not slipping, a diesel additive can help as it's probably very resistant to pressure etc.
There are brand name jaso MA2 oils available where bikers report that the clutch is suddenly slipping, and other bikes use car oils without any problem, but these are most likely exceptions and not the rule.
To discuss and argue these topics amongst experienced bikers is (probably) ok and a different story!
 

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06' VT1100C99' GL1500C Valkyrie
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The use of washers are needed for a lot mechanical applications but I've seen maintenance folk not use them and gall the hell out of things with bolt head and wander/care why they have to get dirty again. I'm one of the best in my abilities but I don't flaunt it. Helping folk is gratifying to me not essential to my ego. I can't wait to hear about what to use on the rear spline lubrication thread. ;) Bench maintenance/racing is so much fun. :p
 

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1995 VT1100C2
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Lets review:

I quoted Havoline
I quoted Royal Purple
I quoted NGK
I quoted Machinery Lubrication
I quoted Honda Service Manual
So it seems neither myself nor the subject experts are making any impact on a member with a differing opinion and I don't think additional facts/articles will help.

PS for anyone still reading this thread, The one article in response to my quote from Havoline was written by a Service Station Group called Drivers Edge. Not sure of their oil expertise.

PPS What is a Furby? Is that a conventional Furby, Do I need to change it when it gets cold out? Is it magnetic?

G.
 
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