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I finally got around to opening my used Honda filter. I am not sure if this has been posted before so I thought I would share the pics. Some of them are a bit out of focus, I think I forgot to set the camera on macro.

Here is the link; Honda Oil Filter by Phantomrider64 | Photobucket

I also flattened out the paper element. It measured 1.5" x 50". 75 square inches if I did the math right.

Everything seemed to be in order inside. I was able to remove the metal core from the paper element with no resistance, it looked like it was glued to it at some time so I am not sure if this is a problem.
 

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I finally got around to opening my used Honda filter. I am not sure if this has been posted before so I thought I would share the pics. Some of them are a bit out of focus, I think I forgot to set the camera on macro.

Here is the link; Honda Oil Filter by Phantomrider64 | Photobucket

I also flattened out the paper element. It measured 1.5" x 50". 75 square inches if I did the math right.

Everything seemed to be in order inside. I was able to remove the metal core from the paper element with no resistance, it looked like it was glued to it at some time so I am not sure if this is a problem.
Thanks, now next time I change mine and cut open the Fram I'll have something to compare it to.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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I see the center metal tube on that Honda filter has a lot of holes in it. I had an older Purolator filter on and when I got a new Purolator, it is a bit different that the original. The center tube is vented with slots that look like small louvers on the old hot rod hoods. So I put on a different filter for now while I am thinking about it. The holes look to flow more oil that those slim slots. It may not make any difference because the oil has to go through the paper which is probably more restrictive that the slots. Just bugged me. So have any of you seen the slots instead of holes and would it make any difference???
 

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Thanks, now next time I change mine and cut open the Fram I'll have something to compare it to.
I thought that it would be good for anyone interested to be able to compare with the "recommended" oil filter. I will cut the Wix filter open when it comes off and then the Bosch after that.

I also drew a oil sample from my fiance's bike and will send it off soon. I am running Rotella T6 now in her bike and Rotella T in mine. I am going to sample the oil from each bike at comparative mileage and see if there is a difference between the oils. This is a unique opportunity to do this since they are basically the same motor and I can monitor both bikes.

I see the center metal tube on that Honda filter has a lot of holes in it. I had an older Purolator filter on and when I got a new Purolator, it is a bit different that the original. The center tube is vented with slots that look like small louvers on the old hot rod hoods. So I put on a different filter for now while I am thinking about it. The holes look to flow more oil that those slim slots. It may not make any difference because the oil has to go through the paper which is probably more restrictive that the slots. Just bugged me. So have any of you seen the slots instead of holes and would it make any difference???
I have seen the slots before in car/truck filters. I do not believe there would be much difference as long as there are enough of them.
 

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The Supertech ST6607 oil filter is a Walmart product... I have been using them in my Sabre's. I think the latest ones were $2.97 each.
 

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1994 VT1100C
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The Supertech ST6607 oil filter is a Walmart product... I have been using them in my Sabre's. I think the latest ones were $2.97 each.
Supertech filters are currently a Wix made filter, one of their lower tier filters. Still a decent filter.
I have one on my bike right now.

One of the things I do not like about them is they have a nitrile rubber anti-drainback valve (ADV). These can get hard over time, especially when exposed to high heat.
I also am not crazy about the design of the ADV. It is a combo valve, both doing ADV and bypass duty. I am sure it works, but I do not like it compared to a regular ADV and a separate bypass valve.

I do not plan on using one again, primarily due to the nitrile ADV, silicone works much better (and is what Honda OEM uses).

Here is a link to a Honda OEM I cut open.

I will post up the ST6607 cut open when I change it.
 

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Supertech filters are currently a Wix made filter, one of their lower tier filters. Still a decent filter.
I have one on my bike right now.
What's your opinion on pre-filling a new oil filter before installing it?
I've never done it but some guys swear by it, saying it prevents oil starvation in the initial start-up after installing a new filter.

I do notice that it takes several seconds for my low oil pressure light to go out when I first start my engine after an oil/filter change. Wondering if pre-filling the oil filter would shorten that time of low oil pressure?

Phil
 

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What's your opinion on pre-filling a new oil filter before installing it?
I've never done it but some guys swear by it, saying it prevents oil starvation in the initial start-up after installing a new filter.

I do notice that it takes several seconds for my low oil pressure light to go out when I first start my engine after an oil/filter change. Wondering if pre-filling the oil filter would shorten that time of low oil pressure?

Phil
When I used to do my own oil changes in the car, used to always put some oil in the oil filter......Can't do that in my Outback as the opening faces down.....In the bike, could be a bit messy as well if you put too much oil in the filter...
 

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2000 Honda Shadow Spirit VT1100C
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What's your opinion on pre-filling a new oil filter before installing it?
I've never done it but some guys swear by it, saying it prevents oil starvation in the initial start-up after installing a new filter.

I do notice that it takes several seconds for my low oil pressure light to go out when I first start my engine after an oil/filter change. Wondering if pre-filling the oil filter would shorten that time of low oil pressure?

Phil
Phil,

On my vehicles (cars, trucks, bikes) with the oil filter hanging down, I always do it. But to be perfectly honest, I must say that the difference in time is negligible at best. And I have never seen an actual study done to determine if it helps the motor in any way. When doing an oil change, there is always enough residual oil between the bearing surfaces to tide the motor over until such time as the oil pressure builds up to normal. It's certainly not like the motor is running dry with metal to metal contact while we're waiting for the pressure to build.

So why do I do it? Plain and simple, it just feels good. Then again I'm the type of guy who thoroughly cleans the contact of the filter base to the boss, then uses a couple drops of brand new oil to lubricate the gasket. Then makes sure that the filter is torqued to factory specs. In a nutshell, I'm an idiot with too much time on my hands.

Put it this way, I've never heard of an engineer or mechanic that looked at a disassembled motor and exclaimed "Look at the damage in this motor from where the owner didn't prefill his oil filter when changing it every 3,000 miles!!!"

Just my opinion...

Chuck

PS: I also use only the factory recommended oil and filters in all my bikes. And in oil conversations, this makes me the odd man out.
 

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@CL_Michigan, you cannot go wrong with factory spec, but it will cost a little more than other comparable (and sometimes better) aftermarket product. No issue being the odd man out when what you are doing is correct.

I have come to know more about oil and filters that I care to admit, and the truth is so long as the oil and filter are changed on a regular basis using a quality oil and filter that meet the specs, you will not have an oil related issue. The problems come from the wrong oil used, a cheap filter, change interval too long for conditions, and just plain neglect.

@Phil, I am one that prefills. As CL said, it makes me feel good, and probably really makes no difference in the overall life of a motor. On these bikes with the filter being sideways, you can't fill it all the way. I just pour some oil in, then let it soak into the media. I keep filling it till there is just a very little in the filter, then install it with no dripping.
Some say you are pouring "dirty", unfiltered oil into the centertube, but I see it as no different than pouring the bottle in the fill hole of the motor.
If it is an opening up filter, I fill it full.


For me, my last oil change cost me ~$13. 1 gallon of Supertech 15w-40 (~$10) and a Supertech 6607 filter (~$3).
Only reason I went with the Supertech filter was because I knew I was going to be doing a short oil change interval (< 1000 miles). Something I do on all vehicles I buy used.
My next 4 oil changes will cost me <$7 total each.
I found some Peak Synthetic blend 15w-40 for $4.75/gallon (bought 4 gallons), and some Fram Toughguard 3593a for $1.50 on clearance at Walmart (filters are actually a Honda car filter, but almost identical in size to the Honda Motorsports filter).
Some do not like Fram, but I have no issue with them. The Toughguard has a silicone ADV and a quality media.
 

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What's your opinion on pre-filling a new oil filter before installing it?
I've never done it but some guys swear by it, saying it prevents oil starvation in the initial start-up after installing a new filter.

I do notice that it takes several seconds for my low oil pressure light to go out when I first start my engine after an oil/filter change. Wondering if pre-filling the oil filter would shorten that time of low oil pressure?

Phil
I pre-fill all the filters in my vehicles that are mounted vertically. I do not do this on the bike because the filter is horizontal. I have thought about filling it with oil and then pour it out, this would at least soak the paper with oil.
 

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gotta love all the oil threads on every automotive forum....very true @blupupher....as long as you change the oil as scheduled, and use the recommended equipment, one will be fine 99.99999% of the time
 

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gotta love all the oil threads on every automotive forum....very true @blupupher ....as long as you change the oil as scheduled, and use the recommended equipment, one will be fine 99.99999% of the time
Yep, every forum has it's long running debates on the silliest of things. I've seen threads on some forums that run well into the hundreds and hundreds of replies over the 'mechanical joining vs solder joining of wires'.

Same with the "Should I dismount from my motorcycle on the left or the right?"

But my favorite topic of amusement has always been the incessant threads on 'How to wave and when is it proper'.

:grin2:

Chuck
 

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Oil change
I have a 1995 Honda Shadow 600. When I got the bike it had been sitting for 10 years, electrical issues. It had 8101 miles on it. I have road it about 50 miles. I want to change the oil. I would like to use the mobile 1 t4 synthetic oil. Any thoughts? Should it be ok? Also what a bout the Mobile 1 VT oil? V Twin.
 

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Oil change
I have a 1995 Honda Shadow 600. When I got the bike it had been sitting for 10 years, electrical issues. It had 8101 miles on it. I have road it about 50 miles. I want to change the oil. I would like to use the mobile 1 t4 synthetic oil. Any thoughts? Should it be ok?
Looks like a fine oil to use, especially since it's formulated for wet sump bikes like yours.

The 20-50 oil would work too, but I can't see why you'd need a 50 weight oil in your bike.
 

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I just have a question in relation to the Honda OEM Manuel post a few pages back. It states that to check the oil level, to let the engine idle for a few minutes then check the dip stick on a level surface...........
A few minutes.......what does that do? If this is an attempt to bring the engine up to normal operating temps to check the oil, it wont even come close. The Clymer manuel says to check the oil at normal operating temps. I need to ride the bike for 20mins to bring everything up to temp.
I get a huge diff. between cold or luke warm oil (after idle for a few mins) compared with full operating temp. It can mean the diff between 1/2 a pint.
Just for the record, I check my oil after a long ride and only after the bike has rested for 15mins. With this the level is just below the upper mark. All other times, when cold or after idling for a bit the oil hardly makes a mark on the stick.

Steve

Steve
I read through this thread. I've also posted my own thread a little while back about this same issue. Any new opinions?? I added 3.2 qts. After a brief 4 min idle, it was reading low on the dipstick. I added another .2 qts (3.4) total and after another brief idle, I'm right at the high mark. After I drive around and it reaches operating temp, I let it rest a few minuets and when i check it is high. The manual clearly states to let it idle a few minuets and then turn it off and check it. However some opinions are to check it after it reaches temp.. the manual only calls for 3.2 qts...
 
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