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I have a 98' 1100 Shadow Aero.

Supposedly it takes 3.7 Quarts including a new filter.

When I change my oil I let the dirty oil drip until it stops. THEN I hop on the bike, and lean it to the right as far as I can, And hold it for about 2-3 Minutes.

Then when I put back left on the side stand, a lot more Dirty Oil comes pouring out.

Now, when I go to put the clean oil in with new filter, it easily takes a whole Gallon.

I now always by the oil by the gallon. So when I have to refill with new oil, I just pour in the whole gallon, and it`s always just right amount, as long as I do the leaning to the left process, and new filter.
 

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Gawd thank you so much for all this info. Yes, new rider here - lookin for all the info. Hubby said - don't ask any oil questions - they hate that. hahaha. did ask (just not out loud). Thanks eversomuch. 1stbikeMoez
 

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Gawd thank you so much for all this info. Yes, new rider here - lookin for all the info. Hubby said - don't ask any oil questions - they hate that. hahaha. did ask (just not out loud). Thanks eversomuch. 1stbikeMoez
Just go with Rotella T6 and be happy:)




Photobucket stinks!
 

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1994 VT1100C
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Just go with Rotella T6 and be happy:)[/IMG]

Photobucket stinks!
Yup, T6 5w-40 (or T5 or T4 15w-40) is something pretty much the safe bet that everyone can agree on.
Any xw-40 oil made for diesel engines will work. Just don't use car oils that say "energy conserving" on them, this will cause issues with the wet clutch.

Most all are also fine with the recommendation of an OEM filter as well.


I personally like the Fram Toughguard filter. Many hate Fram for whatever reason, but I have found they work great and have held up well when I cut them open.

My current oil is Peak 15w-40 synthetic blend and a ToughGuard 3593a.
As I stated above, I have several gallons of this oil I got on clearance, and several of the filters on clearance as well.
~$5 for an oil change and filter is not bad for these bikes.

I plan on a 2,500-3,000 mile change interval, or sooner if my left foot tells me different.
 

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If one is going with a 30 weight, the 10w30 HDEO's are very stout oils. Chevron Delo even has a 15w30 HDEO that is darn near indestructible. The main problem I have with stuff like 5w40 is the level of viscosity modifiers that it needed to make it work. Modern VM polymers are very good, but they can be sheared down under heat and pressure in the right circumstances. Truth be told, a typical 5w40 will start with a lower viscosity base oil, like a 25 weight to meet the cold flow rating, and at operating temperatures the base oil has the viscosity of a 40 weight due to the VM polymers. Stuff like the full syn 10w30 type oils use very little VM to get the job done. Some high quality 10w30 synthetics use no VM at all. They are a straight 30 weight, but meet the cold flow specs to qualify as a 10w30. Highly shear stable and very low NOACK volatility (burn off) rate.

I have grown very fond of 10w30 HDEO oils. I have a 2000 factory reman Detroit 60 12.7L in a 2013 Freightliner truck that now has 846,000 miles on the reman engine. It gets a 10w30 syn blend year round moving up to 80,000 lb of truck and cargo and doesn't use any more oil than it did when new, about 1 qt every 12,000 miles. Oil changes at approximately 22,500 miles, and the oils samples look as good as they did when the engine had 50,000 miles on it. Very little viscosity fluctuation. Not an apples to apples comparison to bikes, but it does prove that the 30 weights are more than up to the task that most people thought a 40 weight was required for.
 

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Visited my favourite cruiser shop in Ripley - my trainer recommended it a while ago, they had only one kind of oil with JASO MA sign, a 10W-40 Putoline 4stroke semi-synthetic. Bought that, 3 liters, but, I'll wait until the new filter arrives.

Check it out: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Honda-VT-750-C2-Shadow-Spirit-2007-2009-Oil-Filter-Hiflo-Racing-Hf204Rc-Prem/141830749797?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Is it going to be good enough?

Also, the oil is: https://www.putoline.com/en/catalogue/product/237/super-dx4-10w-40/1719/
It is a JASO MA - API SG oil, in EU it does not have a circular sign, but on the back it does not mention any additives.

What do you think?
 

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I never heard of that oil here in the US. I am surprised that since it is listed as a JASO oil it didn't mention safe for wet clutches. Maybe that is just a given since that is why we want JASO oils anyway.
 

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No one heard about this oil of course :D
They seem to be (seem..) a big thing here in the UK, but the company does not have a wikipedia page even :D and the fact that many UK bike websites listing them as cool might only be backed by the fact that Putoline sponsores all the biker shops, and biker websites... And sells it's products everywhere. I couldn't find any review that is not written by a reseller, nor any professional comparison. Only commercial BS.

But hell, this is the oil I've got. :D the JASO MA standard should be a guarantee that this is good for wet cluthes.
 

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**Disclaimer: I also posted what I am asking below in a shaft oil thread... one I realized after posting was last looked at in 2007.**

While I realize that this thread is about motor oil, I am here asking about a different kind of oil: final drive gear oil. As far as motor oil is concerned, I am trying the T6 Rotella when I give her her first oil change since my purchasing her. Enough about that, though; my question is about my final drive.

The original shop manual for my 1985 Shadow (that has a 1983 VT750 rather than the 700 in it) calls for 90W hypoid, GL-5. I would like to go to synthetic, and have found a few different ones/brands.

So, with that being said, I'll ask: any recommendations on brand, and is it imperative that it says hypoid if it says GL-5? I also see ones that are "high pressure" (Liqui Molly (dino oil, it seems), that says both "hypoid" and "GL-5" and is 85W-90. Well I am just confused and unsure.

Let's face it. She's a 1983 and had 31k miles on it when I bought her. I need to make sure I am doing the right things for her so I can get years of enjoyment from her. Frankly, I am a little frightened of screwing her up from doing any little thing wrong with her.

Thanks in advance everyone.
 

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2000 Honda Shadow Spirit VT1100C
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**Disclaimer: I also posted what I am asking below in a shaft oil thread... one I realized after posting was last looked at in 2007.**

While I realize that this thread is about motor oil, I am here asking about a different kind of oil: final drive gear oil. As far as motor oil is concerned, I am trying the T6 Rotella when I give her her first oil change since my purchasing her. Enough about that, though; my question is about my final drive.

The original shop manual for my 1985 Shadow (that has a 1983 VT750 rather than the 700 in it) calls for 90W hypoid, GL-5. I would like to go to synthetic, and have found a few different ones/brands.

So, with that being said, I'll ask: any recommendations on brand, and is it imperative that it says hypoid if it says GL-5? I also see ones that are "high pressure" (Liqui Molly (dino oil, it seems), that says both "hypoid" and "GL-5" and is 85W-90. Well I am just confused and unsure.

Let's face it. She's a 1983 and had 31k miles on it when I bought her. I need to make sure I am doing the right things for her so I can get years of enjoyment from her. Frankly, I am a little frightened of screwing her up from doing any little thing wrong with her.

Thanks in advance everyone.

I understand your concern. It's common to want to do every little thing right for your new to bike. I still do the same thing even after 55+ years of riding.

You have two choices, and two choices only.

1) Ask people what they use and hope like hell it works for you. Keep in mind you don't actually know anything about the people giving you advice on what to use.

2) Read your owners manual, which was put together by the people who built your bike and use what they say you should be using.

I don't give advice. The choice is yours and yours to make alone whether you go with 1 or 2 above.
 

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Mobil 1 LS 75W-90 for the past 4-5 years or so on mine, no issues.
 
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