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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so first things first. My 04 sabre that sat for years is finally alive. I'll skip all the other things I've done up to this point. Now. My issue is this. I rebuilt the carbs with a K&L kit. I followed a couple YouTube videos that were very detailed. I put a new piece of foam in that little box that connects the carbs. I also put the choke in the full (down) position which I assumed to be correct and everything New needle and seat cleaned/blew everything out and installed new jets (42). Now it started right up and idled great but its very boggy. I ran around the neighborhood a few times. It doesn't pop, dump fuel out that tube or anything. It just doesn't have much snap. If I roll on the throttle it doesn't immediately respond. It seems to be coming around the more it runs. I didn't do anything plug wise except clean them. I don't see plugs having that big an effect on throttle response. It has 93 in it and some berryman b12 and some seafoam. It was a little smoky at first but I assume that was the additives. It feels kind of restricted like something choking it. Other than that I'm happy. What should I start to investigate? I will put plugs in to be safe. Thanks for the help.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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Put in the new plugs and ride a bit then pull them back out to see what color they are. They are feedback as to mixture.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok. What am i looking for? Grayish / black? I just started it up a bit ago and turned the idle speed up a bit at full choke and it seems much better. Once I bring it off choke its very smooth (not sure rpm) but it isn't racing. Just a nice lope. Throttle response is way snappier.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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If the plugs are tan that is a great mixture. Too white is too lean too black and sooty is too rich.
 

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With the choke lever all the way down, the choke/enrichener) is full on. It should be all the way up when running.
 

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2007 Honda Shadow Spirit VT750C2
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This sounds like what I futzed around with on mine. Did your kit come with new slide valve springs? I went from long boingy springs to shorter tight springs and that made response instant. That's part one, part two is setting the clip on the needle in best slot. I don't remember which way to go when it bogs down on twist but I think I moved the clip up a notch. It's getting too much or little gas when you twist, and the needle valve position determines a big part of that. I think. Worked for me, anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If the plugs are tan that is a great mixture. Too white is too lean too black and sooty is too rich.
Ok. So I guess my next question is how do I adjust it if they are indicating rich/lean? I gotta pull the carbs each time? I did notice something about mine and that is a lack of an idle mixture screw. On the videos I watched they were 07 sabre carbs. He indexed the enrichment screw by marking the housing, counting the turns in and made sure to set it back up the same. Mine have a plug where his had a screw.
 

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2007 VT750DC Spirit “chopper”
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The little plug is hiding your mixture screws, once they’re set from the factory they seal off the adjustment to prevent fooling with the system when all is stock. No worries, they can be uncovered by drilling a very small shallow hole in the plug then threading in a coarse thread screw and wiggling the plug out, this will give access to your idle mixture screws. Don’t drill very far into the plug or you’ll start to hit the adjustment screw, just enough for the screw to get good purchase on the plug.

These aren’t the exact same carbs, but they show a good removal picture of an idle mixture plug being taken out the way I mentioned. Pilot Screw Adjustment - Cyclepedia
 
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Remove the plugs...
Drill a small centered hole in the plugs, stop when you break thru.
Find a sheet meat screw the just fits into the drilled hole and twist it into the plug until it bites/about one turn.
Grab the screw head with some plyers/vise grips and pull out the plug/screw as one.

If the slide needle has notches...
You DO NOT need to pull the carbs to move the needle clip up (leaner) or down (richer).
You can carefully remove the diaphram/spring/slide/needle and move the clip, by removing the 4 screws on top of the carb(s), consult the manual for further info.

If the slide needle is NOT notched
You can only raise the needles by putting a washer(s) under the head, which will enrichen the mixture :( , but 90% of the time richer is what works on a bike with stock intake/exhaust.

Another thing to do is put in the stock needles and try it.
sorry for the cross post,
:D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Remove the plugs...
Drill a small centered hole in the plugs, stop when you break thru.
Find a sheet meat screw the just fits into the drilled hole and twist it into the plug until it bites/about one turn.
Grab the screw head with some plyers/vise grips and pull out the plug/screw as one.

If the needle has notches...
You DO NOT need to pull the carbs to move the needle clip up (leaner) or down (richer).
You can carefully remove the diaphram/spring/slide/needle and move the clip, by remove the 4 screws on top of the carb(s).
sorry for the cross post,
:D
I'm a newb with these bikes. So explain the notches please.
 

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I'm a newb with these bikes. So explain the notches please.
Thanks for reading/responding to my post.
Before emmisions slide needles had notches with a snap ring to adjust the needle further into or out of the main jet.
@Jayspring mentioned the clip and needle slot: "part two is setting the clip on the needle in the best slot" and he had one in his carb kit.
My bad, I just assumed you had needle(s) with notches and clips too, as part of your kit.
The stock needle(s) has the head swaged onto it and cannot be moved and the only work around it is 3mm washer(s) under the head to raise it up making 1/4 to 3/4 throttle richer.
Adjustable (notched/clips)
289190


Fixed
289191

I'm guessing, because you asked, the needles you have are fixed/not adjustable.
:(
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I think it's good to go. I put new NGK 5129s in. Gapped to.035 and made sure wires were snapped on tightly(2 were not after removing old plugs) and it runs fantastic. Thanks to all.
Thanks for reading/responding to my post.
Before emmisions slide needles had notches with a snap ring to adjust the needle further into or out of the main jet.
@Jayspring mentioned the clip and needle slot: "part two is setting the clip on the needle in the best slot" and he had one in his carb kit.
My bad, I just assumed you had needle(s) with notches and clips too, as part of your kit.
The stock needle(s) has the head swaged onto it and cannot be moved and the only work around it is 3mm washer(s) under the head to raise it up making 1/4 to 3/4 throttle richer.
Adjustable (notched/clips)
View attachment 289190

Fixed
View attachment 289191
I'm guessing, because you asked, the needles you have are fixed/not adjustable.
:(
All I changed was needle and seat. New jets and I rings. She's crisp now
 

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Well I think it's good to go. I put new NGK 5129s in. Gapped to.035 and made sure wires were snapped on tightly(2 were not after removing old plugs) and it runs fantastic. Thanks to all.

All I changed was needle and seat. New jets and I rings. She's crisp now
OK, not sure what "I rings" are (O-rings maybe) but you seem happy with "crisp" and have no need of an answer for your previous question:
""Ok. So I guess my next question is how do I adjust it if they(plugs) are indicating rich/lean?""
I was just trying to answer that.

Just know that stock these bikes run on the lean side for emmissions and will benefit from adding a 3mm washer(or 2) under the needle head to richen the mixture in 1/4 to 3/4 throttle position but fuel milage will suffer.
If you're happy with the results now, there's no reason to change anything more.
;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK, not sure what "I rings" are (O-rings maybe) but you seem happy with "crisp" and have no need of an answer for your previous question:
""Ok. So I guess my next question is how do I adjust it if they(plugs) are indicating rich/lean?""
I was just trying to answer that.

Just know that stock these bikes run on the lean side for emmissions and will benefit from adding a 3mm washer(or 2) under the needle head to richen the mixture in 1/4 to 3/4 throttle position but fuel milage will suffer.
If you're happy with the results now, there's no reason to change anything more.
;)
Yes typo. I meant O rings. Basically the fuel bowl gasket and the small oval one under that power valve thingy and the one on the plastic elbow.
 

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1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
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Looks pretty lean. Try backing out the mixture screws a 1/2 turn, then 1 turn, as a test.
 

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They are hiding in here. Drill gently through the thin cover with 1/8 inch drill, and pry it out then adjust the screw inside.
 

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