[bocco]

I have a 2005 VT1100C. I noticed since I purchased it, with about 600 miles on it that occasionally it wouldn't down shift. I changed oil and filter, using Honda products, and the problem continues to happen. I think it's actually getting worse. When I hit the peg to downshift, there's nothing there. I sometimes have to hit it 2-3 times before it engages and downshifts. Upshifting seems to be fine. Thanks for any advise. I'd ask my dealer, but I trust you guys more. Is there an easy adjustment for that?

Bocco

 

[layla]

i don't know a lot, but i had problems with shifting before and it turned out to be my clutch play.....might want to check that?

 

[DLK]

When are you having the problem? Is it if you come to a stop light and are sitting still in 3d( or any high gear) and want to put it in first at a stop? Or when going very low mph and dropping a few or more gears?
If those are the time's you are having problems it is normal. The trans in not a synchronized trans like in a car. You need to just fan a little clutch to slip the trans around to line up the gears.
If it is when the bike is cold and the trans is not down shifting at normal gear change speeds, and fully warmed up it is fine, then you have clutch drag induced by the oil dragging the plates around. You can try other brands of oil to find one that works better, but to some extent they all will do it.

Dan

 

[bocco]

It is always as I am approaching a stop and downshifting at slower speeds. You say that's normal? What do you mean by "fan the clutch a little?"

Thanks for your response, Bocco

 

[Gumpy]

What do you mean by "fan the clutch a little?"

Another term is "feathering the clutch" just barely let it engage a little to get the gears turning. Practice at a stop in first gear, just s_l_o_w_l_y release the clutch handle until you feel the bike pull a little. That's what feathering or faning is, it gets the gears turning a little so they can mesh. And if you're already at a stop, just try rolling the bike back and forth a little, that'll get the gears turning a little aslo.

Gumpy

 

[DLK]

That is right, just ease a little clutch in to move the gears, not enough to move the bike.

You may also want to look at the pedal height of the shifter( very easy to adjust). If you are not getting your foot all the way up( no pressure on the pedal at all) you may be keeping it from moving to the next gear. To check for that move your foot to the side of the pedal between down shifts..Problem fixed? move the pedal away from your foot by adjusting the link rod..

Dan

 

[bocco]

Yes, I'm aware of these things. The problem though is when you're still moving and you're trying to shift from 4 to 2 and it's not engaging. Now you have to try for 1st gear because your chugging along. You're hitting the pedal and it's like trying to take a drag on a light cigarette after you've been smoking Camel non filters. There's nothing there. I have made the concious effort of raising my foot high off the pedal before downshifting, but that doesn't seem to be helping. The problem seems to get a lot worse as the bike heats up. Maybe it is the oil? But at times, it's a scary situation... not to mention embarassing. Maybe I'll take it to the UGH dealer as it's still under warranty. I can hear them now... adjustments aren't covered under warranty. So they'll charge me a hundred bucks and not fix it, but create two other problems trying to fix the one.

 

[DLK]

Why rush off to the dealer just yet?
So far you have added that it happens at slow speed, more when hot, and trying to go large gear jumps.

There can only be a few things causing it.
1, warped clutch plates, as they heat up they can get worse.

Is the cable adjusted properly? How much free play do you have in it? If it is right, try takeing more free play out and see if it is better.
Is the clutch handle bent? New bigger grips? Both of these can reduce the clutch travel.
If there is not enough (none) free play it can slipp the clutch just a little and heat it up also.

2, dry cable or loose cable housing stop. Both have the same reaction of shorting the cable draw. Dry shifter pivots can also add drag to the shifter.

3, Bent dog on the trans or worn parts. Unless you beat the bike, and shift it with out a clutch a lot at the wrong speeds these are highly unlikley.

4, You are not properly shifting the bike. Unlikley since you care enough to worry when it is not right.

No reason to give up just yet. Any problem can be fixed on a bike. And you are going to check it out better than any 10 min ride a dealer tec is going to give it under warranty.

Make sure the lever is straight, the grips are not binding up the pull length, check and re check the proper clutch cable free play, both hot and cold, and lube all the shifter and clutch pivots with a good spray or drop type lube.

Dan

 

[gat803]

+1 for normal with these bikes. My '04 has done the same thing since day one if I get a little lazy on the downshift. A friend has a '99 and it does this also.

Try to start your downshifts earlier as you start slowing down for the stop.

As has been said, if, when you try to shift down there is nothing there but a blank spot on the shifter, let the clutch out a little and the tranny will sort of catch. Then you can complete your shift.

Bocco, I see you're from Howell. We (the PGR) are going to be in Howell for a Blue Star Ceremony, saturday afternoon. Staging at 4 pm at the Pepsi plant parking lot.
If you get so inclined, you're welcome along.
I'm "Uncle Glenn" in the Guard. Say hi.

 

[Flying Burrito]

Just experienced this with mine in the past two days. It's done it twice. Downshifting to stop, I couldn't get to second, neutral, and first. Then after a little while on the highway the next few towns I went through it was fine. I dunno.

 

[93gc40]

Go to the General Section and read about the Harley Blip. The tranys in these bike are sloppy. And the shift forks bend easy. You just have to get the gears spinning correctly for the to matchup. Never try to force a shift on these bikes, it won't help and those wimpy forks get bent. This just makes it harder to shift. Gentle but firm shifts. Add with a little clutch feathering or a blip to sinc up the gears. If you miss a shift, shift back the other way to the last gear, and start over.
Remember engine RPM and Trans RPM and road speed have to be in sinc, to shift Down or UP.

 

[Flying Burrito]

It seems like it lurches a bit when it first gets out on the street in 1-3. Then after awhile on the road it's fine. The downshifting issues occurred in the first 5 minutes of getting on the road. Then after being on the highway or ridden a little while it's fine. And I let it warm up for a few minutes before taking off. I'll check out the other thread though. Thanks.

 

[tubes_rock]

Ah! Okay, that' the problem. Your clutch is fluid-coupled. It's surrounded by the engine oil, so when the oil is cold and thick it doesn't work as well as it does when it's hot and flowing properly. The result is that your clutch behaves as though it's not adjusted correctly until the oil heats up.

What you're seeing in this case is normal. My first few miles of shifts are always rough, so I have to just shift a bit more slowly and deliberately. Once it's hot, I shift like normal.

--Justin

 

[ShadowCAMPER]

If you are shifting up without a problem and down shifting at ANY speed is tough then make sure you are timing your clutch pull correctly before your shifter begins to move.

If that's going smooth then you MAY have bent shift forks .

 

[Flying Burrito]

Ah! Okay, that' the problem. Your clutch is fluid-coupled. It's surrounded by the engine oil, so when the oil is cold and thick it doesn't work as well as it does when it's hot and flowing properly. The result is that your clutch behaves as though it's not adjusted correctly until the oil heats up.

What you're seeing in this case is normal. My first few miles of shifts are always rough, so I have to just shift a bit more slowly and deliberately. Once it's hot, I shift like normal.

--Justin

Any suggestions on oil to put in it? It's due for a change.

 

[Flying Burrito]

If you are shifting up without a problem and down shifting at ANY speed is tough then make sure you are timing your clutch pull correctly before your shifter begins to move.

If that's going smooth then you MAY have bent shift forks .

Doesn't do it all the time. And that's the first time I can remember it happening on the road.

 

[tubes_rock]

I use Amsoil 10W-40, but some people say their bikes don't like it.

Your bike seems to like lower viscosity, so stick with 10W-40 and don't go to anything like 15W-40 or 20W-50.

You probably have a brand that you like, and so long as it's not energy conserving (NOT 10W-30 or any other oil that says "Energy conserving" in the service seal on the bottle), give it a try. Your bike may love it. If not, try another brand. Yes, an engine will tell you if it doesn't like a particular brand.

--Justin

 

[Flying Burrito]

I use Amsoil 10W-40, but some people say their bikes don't like it.

Your bike seems to like lower viscosity, so stick with 10W-40 and don't go to anything like 15W-40 or 20W-50.

You probably have a brand that you like, and so long as it's not energy conserving (NOT 10W-30 or any other oil that says "Energy conserving" in the service seal on the bottle), give it a try. Your bike may love it. If not, try another brand. Yes, an engine will tell you if it doesn't like a particular brand.

--Justin

Cool. Thanks.

 

[PainterD]

I noticed after switching to Amzoil, my bike shifted easier (up shifting as well as down shifting) and didn't seem to "clunk" as bad as before. I'm running 10w40 now.

 

[Flying Burrito]

I'll give it a shot. Thanks.