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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
I just received my lowering kit and wanted to know if anyone here has install this kit. Is there a correct installation procedure that i should follow. Maybe with pictures. And how much should i drop the front. 1 inch or 2?. I have the 11" 412 shocks on the rear. I have a Clymer for the bike, but would like some input from someone who has done this mod.


And if I decide not to drop front, can I install just the springs spacers and seats without the rebound springs.


Thanks for any help in Advance
 

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You have to take the whole fork apart to install the lowering spring. The lowering spring is added to the rebound spring (it's not a replacment spring). You want to follow the same disassembly/re-assembly steps as for replacing the fork seals.

Here's a good link

http://home.insightbb.com/~kpmh.010/Z-Fork-Seal-Replacement.htm

You can also do a search on this site, it's been brougt up before.

You should only insert one of the lowering springs, as you have really only lowered the rear 1". You shouldn't lower the front end more than the rear, as it changes the front geometry which could cause handling problems.

Jim
2001 Spirit 1100
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info.

That link is very helpful. I noticed that in the pictures, the dampner rod and rebound spring were removed without taking the fork tube off the slider. If that is the case, then can i get to that point and just and the extra rebound spring without a complete disasembly of the fork? Is this assumption correct?
 

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moreira72 said:
Thanks for the info.

That link is very helpful. I noticed that in the pictures, the dampner rod and rebound spring were removed without taking the fork tube off the slider. If that is the case, then can i get to that point and just and the extra rebound spring without a complete disasembly of the fork? Is this assumption correct?
That assumption is correct - it will save you from replacing the seals, on the other hand you will not be able to visually inspect the bushings. If you have not previously been into the forks for inspection or fork seal replacement now is the time since you are 90% of the way to a good cleaning and rebuilding of your forks to like new condition.

You don't want to reassembly only to find you need a new fork seal next year cuz the original 10+yr old seals are currently not leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Although the bike is a 1996, it only has 650 miles. And has been in a climate controlled garage. With that kind of mileage, i would think that the seals would be OK?
 

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moreira72 said:
Although the bike is a 1996, it only has 650 miles. And has been in a climate controlled garage. With that kind of mileage, i would think that the seals would be OK?
Controlled for ozone too? Often it's the age not the miles that cause rubber parts to fail. - It's a crap shoot though - you may be good to go for another 10 years the dust covers protect the seals pretty well - let us know how that works out.

When I do my own work (which is always) I usually do all I can to get it back to like new condition since I am saving a butt-load of labor cash, and to avoid repeating the work (or most of the work) again in the near term.

With only 650 miles the bushings will be fine. The fork oil is probably in need of changing, so have some fresh fork oil ready - 1 quart/litre should do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
cbjr0256 said:
moreira72 said:
Although the bike is a 1996, it only has 650 miles. And has been in a climate controlled garage. With that kind of mileage, i would think that the seals would be OK?
Controlled for ozone too? Often it's the age not the miles that cause rubber parts to fail. - It's a crap shoot though - you may be good to go for another 10 years the dust covers protect the seals pretty well - let us know how that works out.

When I do my own work (which is always) I usually do all I can to get it back to like new condition since I am saving a butt-load of labor cash, and to avoid repeating the work (or most of the work) again in the near term.

With only 650 miles the bushings will be fine. The fork oil is probably in need of changing, so have some fresh fork oil ready - 1 quart/litre should do it.
Hey Chuck,

I installed the lowering kit on thursday no problem. Did one fork at a time and it took just over two hours. I did not test ride the bike yet, but I bounced the front while holding the front brake and it feels alot firmer than before. Not as spongy as before and the forks measure one inch shorter. I did not remove the tubes from the sliders. I just removed the top caps, the bottom dampner bolt, and turned them over. Everthing slid right out. Added the extra dampner spring and reassembled. I used 15W fork oil. 15.25 ounces in each fork. No leaks at all, but will check after a long ride. Thanks for your help. Paul
 

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moreira72 said:
Hey Chuck,

I installed the lowering kit on thursday no problem. Did one fork at a time and it took just over two hours. I did not test ride the bike yet, but I bounced the front while holding the front brake and it feels alot firmer than before. Not as spongy as before and the forks measure one inch shorter. I did not remove the tubes from the sliders. I just removed the top caps, the bottom dampner bolt, and turned them over. Everthing slid right out. Added the extra dampner spring and reassembled. I used 15W fork oil. 15.25 ounces in each fork. No leaks at all, but will check after a long ride. Thanks for your help. Paul

Good choice on the 15wt oil - sneaked up to 15 wt by going from 10wt when I installed the pro moly never leak seals *leaked a little from day one*, then I went to 15wt when I installed the OEM seals...15wt is the hot-ticket.

Glad everything went well, it's not a hard job if you take your time- it's messy though isn't it? Fork oil seems to drip forever.
 

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Man...your gonna LOVE the ride now! Gonna feel like a completely different bike. Be sure and give us a ride report! :D

ps: dang I just love that yellow bike!
 
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