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ive done part of the hole saw mod, i just removed the first outer baffle at the exit of the muffler tips. i do like the sound but i didnt remove the inner resonator because i was scared i might have to rejet the bike. will this be necesary?

i do not want to have to rejet. i like how my bike sounds and ive heard other bikes with the full holesaw mod done, but my bike is a 500 i wouldnt want it to sound like ****. since its not so much displacement i think it might sound crappy. kinda like a civic with a fart can, i dont want that
 

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What is "bump"?

All bikes are different.
All ears are different.
All opinions are different.

Interestingly, I found a good answer to my exhaust noise questions.
Sit on the porch if you have one.
Crack open a cold one, your choice.
Have someone else that you trust ride your bike thru several gears and shifts and speed changes. You may be surprised as I was at how well it sounds with the simple mod of removing the rear baffle. I also punched a 3/4" hole in the forward baffles.
I am happy, and the cost was small.
You will never really hear your bike correctly while you are riding it yourself.
Good luck and happy trails.
 

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wow...ancient thread...I was wondering the same thing..I like the looks of the stock exhaust, but want more sound, but don't want to rejet...anybody? I'm sure you should rejet, but is it necessary to?
 

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wow...ancient thread...I was wondering the same thing..I like the looks of the stock exhaust, but want more sound, but don't want to rejet...anybody? I'm sure you should rejet, but is it necessary to?
If you want more a more throaty sound but don't want to rejet, drill a 1/2" hole in the restrictor plate on the inside end of the baffle. Gives you more sound without rejetting. If not loud enough for your taste, punch it out to 3/4". If you do the holesaw mod and remove the whole baffle, you're liable to get more noise than you're wanting and may have to rejet. Never went that far as I was happy with the sound, but others who have will certainly be speaking up. On my vlx, I just drilled two 3/8" holes at about 12 and 2 0'clock around the baffle outlets and it was enough noise for me. It opened it up a bit and remained for the most part, out of sight. I just wanted to make it more audible for the cagers in traffic, but not enough to interfere with me hearing my tunes and phone in the helmet.
 

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wow...ancient thread...I was wondering the same thing..I like the looks of the stock exhaust, but want more sound, but don't want to rejet...anybody? I'm sure you should rejet, but is it necessary to?
I don't know about the 500, but on the 750 the answer is no, you don't have to rejet. You will have to adjust the fuel mix screws or else it will crap out when you try to accelerate. I think mine was 3 1/4- 3 1/2 turns or somewhere in there. I think if you holesaw, and then go aftermarket with an air cleaner then yes, a rejet should be done.
 

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Be careful you don't lose your needle jet. At 3 1/2+ turns out your losing your spring pressure and you risk the needle vibrating out.
 

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Be careful you don't lose your needle jet. At 3 1/2+ turns out your losing your spring pressure and you risk the needle vibrating out.
That does seem a bit excessive now that I think of it, I don't remember fully as it's been about 4 years since I did the mod. I'm sure there's a more technical and accurate thread on the specifics. I just remember that I did have to adjust the screws, but I didn't need to rejet and it runs better than stock. No more burbling on deceleration.
 

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Thanks guys! I'm planning on doing this the next day or 2. Smilie, what are you referring to as a half inch hole in the inside end of the restrictor? Do you mean the plate in the end of the canister, next to the 1 inch hole, or are you talking deep inside the silencer itself?
I had thought of not boring the entire end plate out, but going maybe 1 1/8 inch to just take that center resonator tube out. I am concerned about jetting issues, as this bike acts like it might run slightly rich, though the plugs do not indicate this condition. They look good...even slightly lean, but I noticed the filter housing was not on tight, and I think it was sucking some air which could have contributed to the leanness.
Is fuel tank removal necessary to adjust the fuel mixture screws? This sucker is packaged tight and I'm a stranger in a strange land around this scooter.
Thanks smilie and sweetlou for the responses, and for the suggestion on the mixture screw possibly vibrating out...hadn't considered that possibility but I see it now. Maybe a dab of nail polish on the threads, or blue Loctite?
 

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I had considered drilling a series of six 1/2 inch holes concentrically around the outlet tube of the resonator. Do you think this would improve the sound quality?
 

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Yes, down the center of the baffle. You'll need a long bit or an extension to reach it. If you drill around the baffle on the back end, do a couple at a time until have the volume you're trying to achieve. The only thing abut drilling on the back end of the pipes is that it is exposed and may look a little tacky, which is why I drilled my vlx pipes at 12 and 2 0'clock. Unless your down and looking into the pipes, they're almost invisible. I've heard of other using the nail polish trick, but I'd be hesitant to do it for fear of any getting inside and mucking up the works. I've not had to mess with the carb on my spirit, so not sure if tank removal is necessary or not.
 

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I actually did this a week ago or so. Cut out the resonators at the end, and surprisingly they were not straight, but got fatter behind the cover plate. anyways, the bike is louder, and sounds like a lawnmower and I ride it! so i had my brother ride it, and it sounds way better when you're not on it. darn you Doppler or whatever is causing it!!! i also did not rejet nor did i adjust the A/F screw (BECAUSE I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE IT IS, AND IF THERE IS ONE PER CARB!!!) and the bike is running just fine the best i can tell.
 

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I actually did this a week ago or so. Cut out the resonators at the end, and surprisingly they were not straight, but got fatter behind the cover plate. anyways, the bike is louder, and sounds like a lawnmower and I ride it! so i had my brother ride it, and it sounds way better when you're not on it. darn you Doppler or whatever is causing it!!! i also did not rejet nor did i adjust the A/F screw (BECAUSE I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE IT IS, AND IF THERE IS ONE PER CARB!!!) and the bike is running just fine the best i can tell.
You need a manual. If you run too lean for too long, it will not be running fine for long and you WILL be able to tell. Pull spark plugs and check them. They should be brown, not gray or worse yet, white. Black is a rich condition, but you won't see that if you've removed the baffle.
 

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Thanks guys. I'm with you now smilie. smilie, assuming you used a regular drill bit, is there any problem with the little flecks of metal from drilling making weird noises, since they are trapped inside the can? I had thought of using a small hole saw to just knock out the end of the resonator inside, but I worry about the left over little metal disc getting stuck inside the can and bounding around making noise. If you use a pilot bit they'll usually get stuck up inside the saw, but in case it doesn't.....
mvorbrodt...I worry about that problem too...it probably is a Doppler effect thing like you say...thanks for the heads-up on the diameter change with the resonator...means you could not just slice the weld in the end cap and expect to get it out through the hole?
 

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I got a Haynes manual with the bike. I pulled a rear plug and it was showing a slightly lean mix...light brownish gray, but I think some of that had to do with the air filter not being on tight
 

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I've noticed no noises or rattling. The chips from drilling are so small that I doubt that would become an issue. If worried about losing the holesaw slug, use a highspeed twist bit. It will make small chips. If you only have the holesaw, use a longer pilot bit to be sure to capture the slug.
 

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good thinking on the longer pilot smilie....I bet that would work well. Since you have experience with this procedure, would you recommend drilling out the resonator end cap inside or just drilling out the whole end of the can? Thanks for your advice man.
 

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I personally would go for the inside job. If you drill out the entire baffle and it's too loud for you, you're beyond the point of no return and stuck replacing pipes or living with it.
 

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Thanks guys. I'm with you now smilie. smilie, assuming you used a regular drill bit, is there any problem with the little flecks of metal from drilling making weird noises, since they are trapped inside the can? I had thought of using a small hole saw to just knock out the end of the resonator inside, but I worry about the left over little metal disc getting stuck inside the can and bounding around making noise. If you use a pilot bit they'll usually get stuck up inside the saw, but in case it doesn't.....
mvorbrodt...I worry about that problem too...it probably is a Doppler effect thing like you say...thanks for the heads-up on the diameter change with the resonator...means you could not just slice the weld in the end cap and expect to get it out through the hole?
at least on mine, 2006 model, the resonators looked like this:



i'm thinking about JBweld'ing them back in place, the noise gives me headache now :(

also, they were open at the end, so i couldn't just take a long drill and punch a hole inside of them.
 

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Good plan smilie...that way if I want more sound I can always open them up more. I can see an aftermarket system along with a full carb rebuild/rejet in this bike's future, but for now we wanna make it sound a bit richer. Also, with all the gear whine this engine has, we're hoping some more volume on the exhaust will drown some of that out. I like loud bikes...always have, and my wife wants more sound. This little engine has a fantastic sound...it just needs more of it.
 
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