Please pardon my age and sometimes I'm slow to grasp concepts, but am I reading this correctly?Thank you... Sorry I should have clarified the diagram
86 is trigger from hidden switch
85 is the continuation of the circuit (not working)
30 is in from start switch
87 is out to starter motor
Switch is to bypass relay so I don't end up with a bike that won't start
Thank you... I'll look through those ideasSeveral ways to do it. Normally, this relay would have the original circuit power on 30, output on 87 or other way around, 85 and 86 trigger the relay, could power 86 off 30 and disable switch off 85 to ground so wont start when switch is open.
Some other options here: https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram10.html scroll down, note must disable ad-blocker
Thank you Chuck... I sent you a DMPlease pardon my age and sometimes I'm slow to grasp concepts, but am I reading this correctly?
You want to bypass your starter motor solenoid and wire a connection from your ignition key switch through another switch and directly to the starter motor terminal?
If this is not what you meant, could you please explain everything in detail for me as to what exactly you would like to do?
I was trying to keep it simple by using an existing switch to activate a relay that allows the start button to work... I try the hidden kill switch but tapped the engine cut off switch wire and figured on the highway if that is accidently tripped it would be a bad day.I am not sure you need that relay and wiring. I had an old Ford truck that would have been easy to hot wire and steal so I put one toggle switch hidden that cut the power to the coil. Or the igniton box power. Simple, no power not run.
I didn't want a "public" switch, I wanted to use one of the existing switches to enable the start button to work so unless you activate the"right" switch the start button is always off but I can't get the switch to activate after the relay. It's like the relay stops the current from continuing along the circuit.I would have wired a switch on the wire that goes from the start button to the starter relay. Perhaps, on the starter relay's ground wire. Why is a relay even necessary?
Thank you for your help I'll use a waterproof switch and try to hide it well but I like the idea that the bike "seems" broken so perhaps an amateur will give upYes if you hit the switch it would die. But in a covered area hard to touch, a toggle switch should never get shut off.
I didn't want a "public" switch, I wanted to use one of the existing switches to enable the start button to work so unless you activate the"right" switch the start button is always off but I can't get the switch to activate after the relay.
The schematic at the beginning of this post is the best one I have drawn.I am not following. If you have Windows, you can doddle out a schematic on the Paint program. Then, right-click the finished graphic. Left-click 'Select all,' then left-click 'Copy.'
Hit 'Paste' on the forum page, and the schematic will appear on the post page. Then hit the 'Post reply' button.
Yea, odd indeed. The spliced wire to the relay and the oem wire to the brake light are parallel branches to each other and should be independent of each other.. I think the relay is taking power that is needed to illuminate the light. Maybe?
Yes... That is it, except 85 doesn't go directly to ground. I thought it would continue to the bulb of the brake light but it doesn't. The brake wire is green with red.Is this the way you've wired the circuit? Squeezing the brake lever enables the start button circuit.
View attachment 283778
Yea, odd indeed. The spliced wire to the relay and the oem wire to the brake light are parallel branches to each other and should be independent of each other.