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Discussion Starter #1
Help,

needing to remove the front tire off of a 94 vlx deluxe so that I can take it dow and have a new tube and tire put on does any one know what size hex nut is on that think. For that matter can any give me some pointers on this process. i am going to remove the rim and have a new tire and tube put on I am also going to go ahead and replace the brake bads while i am at it.

any help would be great. Also when I put all of that back togeather is there a specifi tourque spec for the hex axle nuts.
 

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The set below should cover most of your needs - trying to nickel and dime tools will cost you more in the long run, and for homeowner tools the socket set below is plenty tough.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47882

Also 'invest' in a Honda Service Manual it has all the spec's, and will save you money many times over on the DIY projects that are so very simple to perform but cost so much at your local honda dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
cbjr0256
Thanks for the reply. I have some really good tools as I like to do alot of welding and metal work as a hobby. However I was just wondering what size that Hex nut was on the front axle. As I am not sure I have one that big. Plus I have never removed the front tire before so kinda looking for pointers on this process. ect.

Thanks again.
 

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CrissCross said:
cbjr0256
Thanks for the reply. I have some really good tools as I like to do alot of welding and metal work as a hobby. However I was just wondering what size that Hex nut was on the front axle. As I am not sure I have one that big. Plus I have never removed the front tire before so kinda looking for pointers on this process. ect.

Thanks again.
Oh Ok, I thought you probably had a rusty pair of vise grips and a broken screwdriver and were just getting started in the DIY MC business...... :wink:

Should be one of the bigger size in the kit 22mm probably.

Jack the bike up, (get the front wheel off the ground).

Put a block under the front tire that just touches (to help hold the weight of the wheel when pulling the axle).

Loosen the Axle Nut side (driver side) fork pinch bolts (16ftlbs torque on the way back if my memory is correctly).

Remove the axle nut.

Loosen the passenger side pinch bolt.

Pull the axle out (pay attention to the spacer(s) and speedometer housing, orientation to the axle....there is a nub on the axle that the speedo housing has to contact from the back side....it will be obvious but look first)

Remove the block and drop the wheel carefully - watch the rotor leave the caliper.

Can't remember Axle bolt torque, but someone will chime in with exact specs from a manual soon enough.

Check the pads, but changing them too early is a $40 waste. (First time I did it, I ran out and bought a set of pads got back and the ones still in the bike had 90% left. So I shelved them for another 20k miles.
There isn't that much pad on a new set, and they wear pretty slowly, and.... the pads are very easy to change with the wheel in place....about a 15 minute job with a beer break while still wearing your Sunday going to meeting clothes. :lol: Literally!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cbjr0256
This information is very helpfull. I did however order a new set of pads as well :eek: . I will check the current pads if they look good I will follow your advice and shelf the new ones for awhile. I bout this bike used last summer so I am not sure what all maintnace has been performed but I know the tires are ready to be replace so I ordered 2 new tires, 2 new tubes, new chain and both sprokets. So in the next couple of weeks I will be chaingin all of this.

Thanks again.

PS: just ordered a service manual on ebay too. Just in case. I dont want to put this thing back togeather and get down the road and find out I forgot to do soemthig that I knew nothing about and learn the hard way.
 

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CrissCross said:
PS: just ordered a service manual on ebay too. Just in case. I dont want to put this thing back togeather and get down the road and find out I forgot to do soemthig that I knew nothing about and learn the hard way.
All the stuff you are going to be doing, that manual will be paid for in the first hour.....they are the best manuals I have ever used....good luck keep us posted.

A $50-60 motorcycle jack pays for itself pretty fast too! pulling wheels, lubing chains, rebuilding forks, changing shocks, upgrading fork springs, cleaning......helps just to get he bike up in the air to work on sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
cbjr0256
You know that jack thing sounds like a good idea I will check into them im sure harborfreight will have them. Thanks. Im gonna take pics along the way as wll im sure others will need this info in the future too.
 

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If you are doing the job alone, mark the alignment of the speedo housing against the fork, I use magic marker or red electric tape on each, that way you can wrestle the wheel back in and line up the speedo housing without having to look for those "nubs". Good luck.
Too bad people who have done usual maintenance chores can't get together with the ones asking the questions, except on the web....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
mike1

thanks mike, I think I might have to print this entire page before i get started that way I am sure not to forget anything.

I agree to bad I can just go to the local shop and just ask for guidance. however i do understand that they too have to make a living I guess.

I hope to get started on all of this next weekend. Lots to do I just hope I dont mess soemthing up. Thanks again everyone.
 

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mike1 said:
Too bad people who have done usual maintenance chores can't get together with the ones asking the questions, except on the web....
Actually I have helped a couple people in person. Rebuilt front forks with one member, and will help a guy rejet in the next couple of weeks...

I think it's also really good to be able to get free advice from the experience of other's thousands of miles away. And with digital pictures, it's almost like being there. It's amazing how much I have learned and turned into hands on experience in the last couple or three years.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
just wanted to update everone. I ended up taking the bike to the shop to have all of the new componets installed. As I was concerned about normal wear items that I might not know about if I did the repairs my self. So I dropped it off at a local repair shop and had them do the following.

Install new Maxxis WWW tires front and rear.
Install new front and rear tubes.
Install new 16t front and 41t rear sprockes.
Install new chain.
Do entire fluids flush, brakes,oil,radiator ect.

Then got it home and installed my new Mustang seat.

Loving the bike more each day.

At least by taking to the local repair shop I had them further instpect the bike to ensure it's saftey. We are back on the road again.

Thank you all.
 

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Congrats Criss Cross, those tires sure look good on your bike! Installing the seat is a good place to start your own wrenching :) How was your experience at the dealership, what did they charge you, etc? If they were fair and good to you brag them up, we need to keep good shops in business!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I took the bike to a local repair shop known as Danny's Motorcycle repair her e in Bryan,TX This guy once raced and repaird his own bikes. Now runs his own shop. As for price I paid like 225 for him to do all of the work. I bought all of the parts online at BikeBandit.com and paid less that 400 for all the parts.

As for the repair shop I feel as if they did a really good job. Overall I am happy with the service. I would recomend them to any one in the area for sure. Besides I got 3 other quotes around town for doing to same work and the prices were 400 and another for 650. The 650 was an actual dealer. I think if I would have taken it to a delear I would have gotten robbed. Seems for some reason this local delar has skyrocket priceing on everything tho. But just my 2 cents.
 
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