Honda Shadow Forums banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just when you think it's safe to go back in the water... After fixing a carb issue and replacing the cylinder head cover gaskets, I have a new oil leak on my 2001 750 ACE Deluxe. I removed the tail pipes to confirm the leak comes from the central gasket in the rear cylinder head, near the upper exhaust port. Question: Can I replace the cylinder head gasket without removing the engine from the bike?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes. You have to double nut the blocking stud and wind it out.
As seen in this article:
OK, so here I am, parts received, cylinder head cover off, side panels off, cam shaft mechanism out, and this bolt (so easily removed in the article), just isn't coming out. Do you have any more info about that? I used two nuts (as pictured), but when I tried to reverse screw them, the nuts simply came off without sticking and creating the tension that would have "unwound" the blocking stud. I used washers, and no washers... No luck. At this point, I might just end up removing the engine, but I would like to avoid it. I am deep enough in it as it is. Any ideas?
 

· Registered
1983 Honda vt750 Shadow
Joined
·
20,604 Posts
Not sure if you want to buy more tools but these stud removers are perfect for that job.
I used them for years on cars.
Maybe a local auto parts store rents them out.

 

· Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you! My wife is on my ass about the amount of money I have been spending to get this far-parts and tools... I will see if I can rent this. If not, well, she's already pissed...
 

· Registered
2013 Honda Shadow Phantom 750
Joined
·
4,906 Posts
OK, so here I am, parts received, cylinder head cover off, side panels off, cam shaft mechanism out, and this bolt (so easily removed in the article), just isn't coming out. Do you have any more info about that? I used two nuts (as pictured), but when I tried to reverse screw them, the nuts simply came off without sticking and creating the tension that would have "unwound" the blocking stud. I used washers, and no washers... No luck. At this point, I might just end up removing the engine, but I would like to avoid it. I am deep enough in it as it is. Any ideas?
You may not have had the two nuts tight enough. I have found that with metric threads the nuts have to be very tight.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: Mark Kaplan

· Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You may not have had the two nuts tight enough. I have found that with metric threads the nuts have to be very tight.
Yes! Thank you. I am now able to remove the stud. Another question...it looks like this cylinder head has not been removed for about a decade. I have been hitting it with a rubber mallet to break the seal, to no avail. Do I have to remove the threaded spark plug well? If so, any idea how to do that without a reverse pliers?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
All right! I got the stud out, removed every bolt I could find, and after gently taping the cylinder head to break the seal...the base seal (you know, the one that goes between the cylinder head and the cylinder has loosened. So yes, I can lift the cylinder head, but the cylinder comes with it. Since the chain guide goes through both parts, there is not enough room to remove them. Any ideas how to unstick the cylinder head from the cylinder base? This gentle tapping crap is for the birds and has gotten me nowhere. I was hoping to be on the raod by now, but it looks like this is going to take some time...
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top