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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To those who know, and have replaced a "clutch pack"...
I`m looking into changing my stock clutch, which has 122,000 miles on the clock with a worthy component...
What set are recommended by "those who know"??

I suppose it`ll be a straight forward project that anyone can do, too...
Are there any "glitches" I need to look out for?

Thank you in advance,
D
 

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Shop manual says 9lbs torque on the spring bolts...and it means it! Failed to hear my torque wrench click and broke it right off. My 1100 now running with 4 instead of 5 springs. Other than that it was cake. When I replaced mine I discovered that I was going from a better clutch pack to a factory style cork clutch pack. Even new, the cork style feels sloppy. Planning on replacing again with a high performance pack. Barrett Kevlar clutch kit is what I'm thinking I'll order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What with mine having so many miles and starting to slip, I am taking lessons in what You have done when buying the replacement...
Thank You for the heads up on stock items...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Again, to those who have had to deal with a slipping clutch ==>
This clutch slippage started after the oil change Thursday...
I just got off the phone with Castrol Tech, she recommends a motorcycle specific oil...
NOT an automotive oil, for our Bikes,,, I know!!!
She couldn`t answer my question though >
"Does "high mileage" product have molyfiers/friction reducers in it??"

I`ve been using GTX oil with no problem, but Their "High Mileage" product is what my buddy brought instead of my requested GTX...

Remember my thread about the 6017 filter?
This has turned to "the oil change from hell"...

Chickenman gifted me this oil change for helping with his bike maintenance...
Free? NOT!!!

I`ll change oil, as I consult our clutch Gurus,
D

EDIT
This passing storm has me inside today... :(
Hopefully I`ll be able to get out after while ;)
 

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Look at the bottle if you still have it. It should state on there if it has friction modifiers or if it is energy conserving. I wouldn't have any problem using a non-motorcycle specific as long as it didn't have nergy conserving on the label.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Look at the bottle if you still have it. It should state on there if it has friction modifiers or if it is energy conserving. I wouldn't have any problem using a non-motorcycle specific as long as it didn't have nergy conserving on the label.
Yessir,
I checked...
I went to their website and cannot find this product, NOR can the tech rep I was talking to...

Be knowing I am aware of the oil company being "strictly business" so as NOT to become liable...

She states, "Even though you have had good results using automotive oil, we do not recommend doing this... Castrol recommends motorcycle specific oil for your motorcycle" (or quoted - very similar)

It may be that my clutches are worn enough to warrant replacement...
Thus the thread, to get recommendations/advise,

Thank You and keep them coming,
Dennis

EDIT
Oh and the statement on additives does mention seals conditioners to avoid leaky seals and additives for lubrication of older engines...
She had no comment on this additive...
BUT Seals protection MAY be the additive which is causing this slipping???
 

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Maybe, just once in your life, try the motorcycle specific oil and see what happens. Then on your next oil change, use your regular brew...

It would be interesting to see if there was then any difference, especially if your regular stuff showed not to work as well. I've heard nothing but bad about the automotive energy conserving oils and try to stick with an oil that has the JASO MA rating.

It could just be the clutches day, but I think you are presented with a unique position to experiment and post your observations...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Gotta get on this issue too...
I don`t like the fact my Bike is "sick" ...
With it starting upon oil change, I strongly suspect this formula I just received as a gift...;)

I`ve read that IF one did make the mistake of using a non-compatible oil, that it may take a few oil changes to cleanse the clutch discs...

See, I do learn,
D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK...
As Christmas is approaching, maybe Santa will be generous?
Where are Y`all getting these Barnett Clutch sets?
Links is what I`m after, so as to compare prices with the local Star Racing vendor...
It is always good to investigate,
D
 

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I've never been one to be too specific with oil. I usually state for the most part to use good approved oil and change it often, However my brother had a bike that used to have the nasty habit of clutch sticking. Let the thing sit three days and the clutch would be a mutha to break loose. I suggested he try Honda oil, just to see. It worked.
 

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I have done about 12 personal clutch pack changes and 60+ OP's in my life and have not found a third party pack that really work the same or as good as OEM's or lasted the distance. If you got 122K out of it and you liked its operation I would take that any day. Were talking about small amount of money difference between stock OEM and third party. I see a lot of rider recommendations on forums that have no foundation on real life long term history.

[Cuc Tu] is right.
[dothedrew040] is right also, no inch or foot ib torque wrench don't play.
Barnett Clutch set, find 3 people that have installed them and taken 40k on them for ref's. History out weights the Rep's tall tales.

Oil is all in the spec's, if its not rated or has the same spec's for cycle why play with if. I would rather throw $100 in oil in the trash than install Hearsay oil. But its the owner dime. You can get 40K on car oil with no issues till you split a case to see the insides. Remember your clutch is living in oil all it life and doesn't have a sealed surface. It would take more than 1 oil change to get most of the oil out of the clutch plates.

The right oil that goes in your bike lasts a lot longer than the 3K that the Boggy Man Oil/Mech tells you. In the USA this is the only place I have found that people say 3K on oil. If you have to change oil after 3K because of the oil that real sad oil. Oil and Mechanical engineers will not say the oil is bad, it contaminates in the oil.
I'm 7K on oil 3500 on filter. If ride dirt road then change early.

Whats the price of your time messing with trying to install the better mouse trap, reinstall over and over again.

My 2 cents.
 

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Most of the time it's the springs that let the clutch slip. Back when I raced dirt bikes(early 70's) we would shim the clutch springs for more pressure on the clutch. Even did this on new bikes before they would hit the track. I did this to my '98 VT1100-T six or seven years ago(there's a post on here somewhere, I'll try to find it) and my clutch still hooks up better today than it did back in 2000 when I bought the bike. I have over 50k miles since I shimmed the springs and my bike rides just fine. I also say go with a stock Honda clutch, it just needs a little more pressure on it so it won't slip when heavy on the throttle. This only works with bikes that have 4 or 5 springs putting pressure on the clutch.

ROD
I found it
http://www.hondashadow.net/forum/72.../81380-no-more-slipping-clutch-cheap-way.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
OK, I`m reading what is being written from your experience...

My OEM clutch pack has been good to me since 2007 & 40,000 miles...

I`ll check into replacement cost of both OEM & aftermarket...

This thread is doing exactly what I need it to do >==> get "Hands On experience" soas to "weigh my options", plus, find out what you did, & to pick up on warnings from your bad experiences...

NOT being used at the dragstrip stock is good enough...
;)
SO Then, from what I read OEM will out last aftermarket? (1)

There is still hope for my worn components, by adding stiffer springs or shims? (2)

As I think back and continue to feel this clutch, I`ve determined that the oil change had nothing to with slipping, I got reminded by the "jump-jump-jump" from a dead stop & some slippage when accelerating hard in high gear...Before the oil change...

Thank you and keep our experience talking,
Dennis

rrounds, I`m thinking on getting a few more miles from shimming the springs...
I`ll consult the service manual for detailed procedure of diagnosis also...
 

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OK, I`m reading what is being written from your experience...

My OEM clutch pack has been good to me since 2007 & 40,000 miles...

I`ll check into replacement cost of both OEM & aftermarket...

This thread is doing exactly what I need it to do >==> get "Hands On experience" soas to "weigh my options", plus, find out what you did, & to pick up on warnings from your bad experiences...

NOT being used at the dragstrip stock is good enough...
;)
SO Then, from what I read OEM will out last aftermarket? (1)

There is still hope for my worn components, by adding stiffer springs or shims? (2)

As I think back and continue to feel this clutch, I`ve determined that the oil change had nothing to with slipping, I got reminded by the "jump-jump-jump" from a dead stop & some slippage when accelerating hard in high gear...Before the oil change...

Thank you and keep our experience talking,
Dennis

rrounds, I`m thinking on getting a few more miles from shimming the springs...
I`ll consult the service manual for detailed procedure of diagnosis also...
when you get the friction plates out check to see if they fall within the service limit for thickness! and look for warped discs that will tell ya a lot!;)
 

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Hey guys just to chime in. On the fast oil talk. Castrol high milage. Oil has a slip additives in it. It's a super high wax poly so the wear in motors never show up. It also help rebuild on oil loss. I only know what oil reps tell me. Castrol Penn and shell reps stop by once a month. Go back to your normal oil and hope it ain't to late and the clutch ain't burnt. The stuff is good in rear ends of cars as long you don't have a lsd. Just adding
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Thank you Sweeet Ace, You have information, Castrol tech support doesn`t have or didn`t share...
I asked specifically, "Does High Mileage have molys and or additives which reduce friction?":D
I`m taking it EXTREMELY easy on the clutch, so as NOT to heat it up...
Now I`m back to the idea of changing oil and see IF it slips with "Good Oil" in it...
At only the cost of filter and oil, This is the cheapest (experiment)
AND when changed, I can use this oil in my tractors and or truck... :D
Motorcycle specific oil, too...
 

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Your welcome and they wont tell you over the phone because they dont no. They just try to sell then market the oil for money. Just be sure to flush it with something before you put new oil in that HM is some slick stuff and will stay in the motor kinda like z max.

Rot t and castrol oils must be flushed be for switching if you dont you might get luck but seen 2 motor blow due to oil switching.

Dont worry about you jiffy lube guys because they just change filter and add oil if your lucky. So you never get a change anyways.


Just to add Cap D are you fully adjusted on your clutch? 122k on a bike clutch is great . Also do you clutch every gear change?
 
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