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Discussion Starter #1
...battery. The Shorai LiFePO that has been starting my bike since May, 2011 gave up the ghost on Sunday. 8 years, 4 months and 1 day, all trouble-free, including two complete discharges when the stator failed. Certainly can't complain about the $170 cost.

What does merit complaint is inherent to the nature of Lion batteries: no warning of impending failure. The battery puts out full voltage then SUDDENLY puts ouothing (or thereabouts -- 4V at previous failures). Even the voltmeter on the handlebar failed to provide any warning -- it was displaying over 13V just 20 minutes before the battery failed. The bike was running when failure occurred -- while slowing for the traffic light a block from the day's destination. (No complaint about that.)

The replacement battery is an Interstate AGM -- maybe the only battery within 30 miles of Marlinton, WV that fit inside the batter box. A tight fit at that. Don't know if I'd have gone for another Lion had one been available. Lots of favorable points to the technology beginning with long life and no need for maintenance charging. The catastrophic drop in output, though, is a huge negative. There is no warning like the slow-turning startups typical of aging lead-acid batteries. My last AGM gave more than 7.5 trouble-free years plus a couple of balky months to get to the end of the riding season. Hope I can do as well this time.
 

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My Shadow 750 only has this summer under my ownership. I know only that the battery works and will be a pain to get out when it doesn't, it's a very snug fit. Shortly after I got my Buell, the AGM battery failed, much as you described with the lion. In retrospect, I recalled the headlight seeming dim that morning. It was difficult to start when I left work and died about 28 miles into a 40 mile trip home. It would read full voltage without load, but went down to a volt or two under any load, killing the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Shortly after I got my Buell, the AGM battery failed, much as you described with the lion. In retrospect, I recalled the headlight seeming dim that morning. It was difficult to start when I left work and died about 28 miles into a 40 mile trip home. It would read full voltage without load, but went down to a volt or two under any load, killing the engine.
That's a typical failure mode for a lead-acid (including AGM) battery -- testing okay but unable to provide power under load. Lithium batteries give no such warnings; they output full power then collapse.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Addendum: Charging system failed 8 days after the battery. Managed to limp into Buffalo running solely on (the new) battery. Wasn't enough left to start the bike after stopping. Managed to get the bike home early this morning. Diagnostics to begin later today. Maybe it wasn't a problem with the Lithium battery?
 

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The red and white wire that's on the starter relay originates from the RR which sends dc electricity to the starter relay. The red and white wire is connected to the battery's positive cable internally through the green thingie on the starter relay. In that way, the wire charges the battery when there's surplus voltage available. If you dissect the green thingie you'd see the interconnections.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
In that way, the wire charges the battery when there's surplus voltage available.
Shindengen FH20 r/r connects directly to the battery. Charging doesn't run through the starter relay.

Voltage test failed because 30A fuse went bad. Don't know how I did that. It was good when before starting testing. Probably did something stupid along the way.
 

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Shindengen FH20 r/r connects directly to the battery. Charging doesn't run through the starter relay.

Right! The red/white wire don't plug into the starter relay on some bikes. Goes straight to the battery. My other bike is like that.



Voltage test failed because 30A fuse went bad. Don't know how I did that. It was good when before starting testing. Probably did something stupid along the way.

Done that while working near the starter relay with a 10mm wrench. But I heard the sound of the main fuse going out, though. Now I pull the main fuse. The main fuse connects the battery to the key box. So if you need power for testing lights etc then you can't pull the main fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Static (i.e. engine not running) tests of stator and r/r both show no issues. Had to remove the battery (and battery box) to sever the soldered 3-yellow-wire connections. Dynamic (i.e. engine running) test of stator output is next.

The feeling that I'll be going over near every inch of wiring seeking an intermittent short is growing more intense.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Finally got around to dynamic (i.e. engine running) test of the stator. AC volts at idle = 3.xx, 8.xx and 14.91. (Not enough hands to write down all the numbers.) AC volts at high RPM = 14.xx, xx.xx and 24.xx. All are inadequate.

The only way I can understand those numbers is if varnish melted within the coils effectively shortening the windings. Does that make sense?

Replacement stator from Electrosport or Rick's Motorsports?
(OEM stator lasted 52k miles. Electrosport replacement -- which was supposed to be better -- only lasted 38k miles.)
 
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