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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, as I mentioned in another post, I recently inherited an 86 honda 700 shadow. I'm in the process of having to put it back together (put the tank back on bike, recharge and test the ignition, sync carbs --no idea how to do that one, and just plain get in back in working order). The battery has been fully charged by the tender, and I can get the neutral light on and when I press the ignition, a "whirring noise" happens. So hopefully, I'll test the ignition for spark soon. But here's where the topic of this thread comes in. The carbs have been redone (according to prior owner at least) but need to be reseated\attached to the rubber tubes so that the air gets properly fed to them. It this "simply" a matter of wiggling the rubber tubes\hoses back into place, reseating them onto the top of the carbs, then tightening accordingly? It looks like I will have to remove the tank to do this.

Also, since I can't spray it down right now (it being winter and all), is there a good way to scrub this thing down (bucket of water and a brush?).

Also, on a side note, many of the bolts\screw are missing, but I have the part (air filter cover, shadow\side pieces). Does anyone know what size bolts\screw the bike uses? I'm hoping I can simply buy more at a hardware store.



Thanks from a newb. Auto part Fuel line Engine Vehicle Wheel Auto part Fuel line Automotive fuel system Engine Automotive engine part


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From the pictures you appear to have carb boots like I have on my bike. When I rejetted my carbs I found that when re-installing the carbs to the boots that spraying the boots with silicone made a huge difference in getting the carbs seated.
 

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... spraying the boots with silicone made a huge difference in getting the carbs seated.
^^^^+1. Also unless it's a really bad picture those boots look misshapen and old... possibly hard/brittle. I'd recommend new ones. The boots are hard rubber but they still should be pliable.
 

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don't try it while the boots are cold it makes it harder. You want to warm up and I've alwaysjust need a little bit of engine oil around the inside with my finger never had any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hmmmm....they aren't hard and brittle, but i did have to use silicone spray and my slip join pliers around the body to get them on..and the top of the boot definitely pulled down from the frame, so this makes me think that I will need to put a tightening ring on top...yes? and is that normal (to have use pliers to pull the boot down to get it to fit)?


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You are making this really hard to help you..

It is no good taking things apart without taking clear photographs of every step of the way, every nut and bolt every hose and wire that you remove before after and during any work, and to do it without a manual is just wrong..

The carb mounting rubber has to be lined up with the lug on the carb.

Get a spark before you undo anything else or you will end up with a box of old bits to sell on ebay..

John.
 

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hmmmm....they aren't hard and brittle, but i did have to use silicone spray and my slip join pliers around the body to get them on..and the top of the boot definitely pulled down from the frame, so this makes me think that I will need to put a tightening ring on top...yes? and is that normal (to have use pliers to pull the boot down to get it to fit)?


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I have never had to use pliers to get the carbs on and be careful doing it, its easier then you think to crack the carbs, on each intake boot there should be a bottom clamp that clamps the boots to the head and a top clamp that clamps it to the carb, loosen the top clamps almost to the point of them coming undone and don't loosen the bottom clamps or you will be fighting the bottoms popping off on you while shift the carbs. take you time cause these can be a bear to get use to and be prepared to pull them off several times, altho not always necessary but usually when you not familiar with a set of carbs you will miss small things.
 

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ok sorry just noticed that the pics were of the top boots, are those still pretty flexible? you should be able to just pull those down over the top of the carbs, they should pull all the way down and sit flush. and again two clamps per boot but will need to loosen both of them. the top ones are the harder ones to work with but I have noticed if you spin the while putting them on they will go on easier and then continue to spin them until the top and bottom look flush both ends, also it does matter which one is left and which one is right while trying to align the after fitment
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have never had to use pliers to get the carbs on and be careful doing it, its easier then you think to crack the carbs, on each intake boot there should be a bottom clamp that clamps the boots to the head and a top clamp that clamps it to the carb, loosen the top clamps almost to the point of them coming undone and don't loosen the bottom clamps or you will be fighting the bottoms popping off on you while shift the carbs. take you time cause these can be a bear to get use to and be prepared to pull them off several times, altho not always necessary but usually when you not familiar with a set of carbs you will miss small things.
Sorry, I misinformed you. I was referring to using pliers to essentially "wiggle" the top boot down on top of the carbs. However, what's interesting is that I think I am missing the clamps for the top part of the top boots, or they are somewhere in the jumble of what was provided to me. If I have lost them, anyone know where I can get them? (once I've completed my spark testing). I've got the bottom boots as securely on and seated as I could get them. Did honda have any idea how much of a pain it was going to be to put these top boots on? Good grief!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
so, tc, mine appear to be "prebent" in a way, where the boot itself appears to be angled, depending on what carb it is seated on. is that normal, or should the boots simply just be straight up and down pieces of rubber without any bend to them?
 

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I think it was more me, it was early and just started my first cup of coffee. I can understand how difficult these carbs are, at least you don't have all the California emissions vacuum crap (at least I don't think you do) you can just go to your local auto parts store and get radiator clamps of the same size, I have those on my upper boots cause they clamp better you just have to hold them into place while tightening
 

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so, tc, mine appear to be "prebent" in a way, where the boot itself appears to be angled, depending on what carb it is seated on. is that normal, or should the boots simply just be straight up and down pieces of rubber without any bend to them?
they are bent like that from the factory that's why they have a certain carb they need to sit on and need to be in a certain position or they wont seal that the top
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
all, i have twisted the carb boots every way i can do around the carb and can't get them to sit flush. i can get them 95% flush, with the remaining 5% on the edge of the carb lip but not flush. I am able to tighten the clamps on both sides to the point where the boots won't move. try as i might, i can't get it that last 5% down. once I manage to get it fired up, it there a way to test and see if there are any leaks around the top boots? or is there a good way to absolutely get them flush? i have them turned according to the way that they should sit, but i just can't get them flush...argh!

thanks in advance.


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I wouldn't bother faffing with anything until you have the replacement boots (once you know you've spark). We're in a similar situation. My bike is up and running but tempramental so I'm gonna clean my carbs once I have the new boots. The ones currently on aren't leaking and are sealed tight however they look in a dubious state to re-use. I wouldn't risk the faff.
 
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