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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So lately my '86 vt700 has been having issues shifting. It started on a cold ride home, I had to really fight with the foot lever to get it into gears. When I got home I ended up not being able to get it into neutral and had to leave it in 1st.
The next day I was able to get it into neutral with some fighting, and let it warm up for about 15 minutes. I figured it was just the cold weather that was fighting me, I don't feel that way anymore. Even with the bike warm, I still have issues shifting.
Also, when I am at stop lights and have the clutch pulled in, the bike still creeps forward... Which feels kinda weird.

Anyone have any idea what's going on?
 

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When mine started to shift hard it was just 2nd and 3rd going up. I adjusted the clutch cable and all is happy again
 

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When mine started to shift hard it was just 2nd and 3rd going up. I adjusted the clutch cable and all is happy again
I believe the 86 had a hydraulic clutch. What shape is your hyd. system for the clutch. Clean fluid? As in clear? You may be mistaking weather for a dirty hyd system for your clutch. It may be time to open it up and clean things out.
 

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Also, when I am at stop lights and have the clutch pulled in, the bike still creeps forward... Which feels kinda weird.

Anyone have any idea what's going on?

Adjust your clutch cable. It may not be releasing all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
So I opened and looked and the fluid is DISGUSTING. I'm gonna clean it out and bleed it, I found a great step by step video on how to do it on the VT700, but I'm confused...

Is brake and clutch fluid the same thing?
On the cap it says use DOT3 brake fluid.
In the house I have some stuff called Wearever gold premium synthetic DOT3 brake fluid... But it says it's for ABS, disc and drum brake systems.

Can I use this as the clutch fluid?
 

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Yes, that's the stuff. If it's disgusting looking means you need to disassemble the hyd. system (master AND slave cylinders), purge the old fluid from the line, clean and possibly rebuild cylinders, reassemble, fill and bleed the system.
 

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you're suppose to be replacing the hydraulic fluid annually or at least every 2 years. I don't know why, lol.
 

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you're suppose to be replacing the hydraulic fluid annually or at least every 2 years. I don't know why, lol.
Yup! Beats doing what he now gets to do, doesn't it? It's a lot easier than cleaning out that granulated maple syrup.;)
 

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In the house I have some stuff called Wearever gold premium synthetic DOT3 brake fluid...
DO NOT USE, I repeat DO NOT USE old brake fluid lying around in your house/garage. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air. Always use a fresh sealed bottle of brake fluid when bleeding your brakes/clutch.

And yes, you can use the same DOT3 brake fluid for both brakes and hydraulic clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alright so I cleaned all of the nasty gunk out of it, it was seriously disgusting. I've only had this bike for about 5 months, its obvious that it hadn't been done in a while. I took my awesome makeup q-tips to it (my bike is more important than my eyeshadow lol), got it nice and pretty, added the fluid then bleed it out until the fluid coming out was nice and clear....
Yay!

But low and behold, started it up (in first gear cause I couldn't get it into neutral) and the problem is still there. With the clutch pulled in all the way the bike still tried to jolt out from under me when I started it up.

What am I missing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
In the house I have some stuff called Wearever gold premium synthetic DOT3 brake fluid...
DO NOT USE, I repeat DO NOT USE old brake fluid lying around in your house/garage. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air. Always use a fresh sealed bottle of brake fluid when bleeding your brakes/clutch.

And yes, you can use the same DOT3 brake fluid for both brakes and hydraulic clutch.
The break fluid I used I just bought less than a week ago for my other bike (a Honda cbr900).
Is a week too old to use?
 

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Alright so I cleaned all of the nasty gunk out of it, it was seriously disgusting. I've only had this bike for about 5 months, its obvious that it hadn't been done in a while. I took my awesome makeup q-tips to it (my bike is more important than my eyeshadow lol), got it nice and pretty, added the fluid then bleed it out until the fluid coming out was nice and clear....
Yay!

But low and behold, started it up (in first gear cause I couldn't get it into neutral) and the problem is still there. With the clutch pulled in all the way the bike still tried to jolt out from under me when I started it up.

What am I missing?
Either something isn't clean or you haven't got it bled properly.
 

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Your clutch is not fully dis-engaging for some reason, either a mis adjusted clutch cable or something wrong in the hydraulics if it's a hydraulic clutch.
 

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Not sure if your bike has a slave cylinder, but I know I had to rebuild both master and slave cylinders when I first bought my Valk.
 

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Not sure if your bike has a slave cylinder, but I know I had to rebuild both master and slave cylinders when I first bought my Valk.
Yes, it has both master and slave. If the master cyl is full of gunk, the slave is as well and should be tended to.
 

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*what SHE now gets to do.
Just sayin, gotta rep the boobies.
What I get for assuming.....THIS goes a long way toward explaining the Q-tips & eye shadow remarks, earlier!

Welcome to the Forum, BurnedSpeech!
And good luck with that shifting problem.
 

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Also, when I am at stop lights and have the clutch pulled in, the bike still creeps forward... Which feels kinda weird.

Anyone have any idea what's going on?

Adjust your clutch cable. It may not be releasing all the way.
If it's creeping forward with the clutch lever all the way in, it's either air in the system or it needs to be adjusted. Most likely air. I had one a while back that had to be bled about once per year or it would do exactly what you describe. I would bleed it one squirt from the master cylinder banjo and it would work fine for another year.

Edit: Is this not a hydraulic? If it's mechanical, it's even simpler. It could be a cable or the clutch itself needing adjustment. Either are easily doable.
 
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