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Running out of parts to replace, what is wrong with my shadow ACE

4389 Views 48 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  amos
Having huge issues with my 1995 honda shadow 1100 ACE

First it died, at medium revs.

Replaced fuel pump

A month later it cracked the fuel pump so I replaced it again

Now heres the problem

When it was running, it would die after about 20 minutes of riding, unless it was kept at low revs. At high revs it would sputter until it got past about 5,000rpm. Then it died completely while cruising after being fine for a few rides.

Fuel runs out of tank fine > fuel line after tank is fine> pump pumps as it should > fuel filter is fine and was replaced a month ago > I took the carbs apart and cleaned it and they seemed fine too.

Whats next to look at? Air filter is clean. I don't think its electrical because it sputters out, and sometimes when sputtering if i drop it to low revs it will stay running, whereas if its electrical it should just cut out?

At times if it is left for a few days it runs alright for a bit, but as soon as its warmed up it dies. Radiator was replaced last year, and doesn't start up before it dies so I don't think its overheating.

Whats next to look at?

have been suggested replacing crank case breather, and rectifier, does this sound like the next place to look?
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Replaced fuel pump
Did you properly diagnose the fuel pump as the problem before replacing it?

A month later it cracked the fuel pump so I replaced it again
Buy it from a quality source or the bargain bin? Follow instructions for properly installing or just wing it?

Now heres the problem
Seems to me you've already covered the problem. :mrgreen: Still dealing with symptoms, though.

Whats next to look at?
Start at the beginning. Simple stuff first. What other parts did you change besides the fuel pump? (There must be more if you're running out of parts to change, right?)

Assuming you've properly ensured that everything you changed is the correct part and functioning as it should, move on to the big 3 of running problems: Air, fuel then spark in that order.

You say the air filter is clean. Visual inspection? Not reliable. Given that your stalling is intermittent/unpredictable the air filter is not likely the issue but the questions remain: How old is it? How long has it been in the bike? When in doubt, throw it out.

Have you checked the fuel tank vent? Doesn't matter if you think you've eliminated it as the culprit; it's easy to check and will cause the problem you've described.

Fuel delivery up to the new-new fuel is fine? You say the pump "pumps as it should" -- does that mean it delivers the specified amount of fuel when tested per the genuine Honda shop manual? Or just that it spits out a bunch of fuel?

You took the carbs apart and cleaned them. (My prime suspect! My guess is that you've got something wrong inside one of the carbs and are flooding a cylinder.) Did you use a shop manual or just wing it? Get everything back together perfectly? No vacuum leaks anywhere, inside or outside the carbs? Know how to check for external vacuum leaks?

Collapsing fuel line is certainly a possibility. How old is it? What's the condition? Any leaks?

Spark is not likely the problem but I'm sure plenty of folks will chime in with a hundred things to check -- just as someone foolishly told you that the rectifier might be the cause. (It can't. The bike wouldn't run at all if the regulator/rectifier was putting out AC volts. That's what the rectifier does: convert AC volts from the stator into DC volts to run the bike. The other part of the single unit regulates the DC volts into the proper range. Again, NOT the problem. You'd be complaining about a dead battery if it was.)

Electrical could be the problem, though. Check the battery connections. Check the other ends of the wires, too. And the main fuse. Plus the fuse box. Loose or corroded connections could cause disruptions to the electrical flow that might be intermittent. That could make the bike sputter and die. Maybe. Easy enough to check.

A couple of open questions in regard to your extraneous remarks:
o Does the overheating light work?

o Do you want to mess with the crankcase breather? (If so, go ahead. It won't change a thing but maybe you'll enjoy changing it.)

o Sputtering happens when you get "past about 5,000 RPM" has me wondering if you get that number from a tachometer. 5k is a lot on these bikes. 6k is just about the max -- not the redline but the point where the governor kicks in. (Either 6,200 or 6,500, something like that. I forget.) If you're going by ear for the RPMs you could be off by a bit. Hitting the governor makes the bike feel like it's sputtering. Not that I'm saying it's your sole problem, only that you might be confusing one with normal high-rev behavior for the bike. Maybe.
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Well it spits out a bunch of fuel, so I would of thought this isn't the problem, because at low revs it shouldn't need much fuel at all right?
Fuel pump output spec is 650 CCs/minute for 1995 or 800 CCs/minute for later model years. (Your replacement could be newer?) Recommended procedure is run it for 5 seconds into a graduated beaker then multiply amount of captured output by 12.
I tried reading some of the plugs by the air filter. all seemed ok I would guess, I need to find a chart to show what they should be reading, except the first plug (closest to the tank) with 3 yellow wires, would sit at around 6v when idle, but drop extremely low when revved, or is this normal?
Generally we mean spark plugs when we use the word "plug" around here.

Did you mean an electrical connector? That's the only thing that makes sense to me. Is it the one with 3 yellow wires? That will NOT be the source of your problem. (It is where you test the condition of your stator but you need to separate the "plugs" and set your voltmeter to AC volts -- 20v to 50v per wire is about what you should with the engine revved.) It may cause many problems but not the ones you've described. With the voltage you report from your battery there isn't much need to test voltage in your electrical system. There may be issues lurking there for you (probably not) but they won't stop the bike from running while the battery is holding a charge.

Have you checked the output of your fuel pump? (Not just saw that it spit out fuel but run for some increment of seconds, captured and measured the output then compared that to the Honda spec posted above.)
>Taken carb apart again. Everything in it is clear
Diaphragms hole free?
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