Did you properly diagnose the fuel pump as the problem before replacing it?
Buy it from a quality source or the bargain bin? Follow instructions for properly installing or just wing it?
Seems to me you've already covered the problem. :mrgreen: Still dealing with symptoms, though.
Start at the beginning. Simple stuff first. What other parts did you change besides the fuel pump? (There must be more if you're running out of parts to change, right?)
Assuming you've properly ensured that everything you changed is the correct part and functioning as it should, move on to the big 3 of running problems: Air, fuel then spark in that order.
You say the air filter is clean. Visual inspection? Not reliable. Given that your stalling is intermittent/unpredictable the air filter is not likely the issue but the questions remain: How old is it? How long has it been in the bike? When in doubt, throw it out.
Have you checked the fuel tank vent? Doesn't matter if you think you've eliminated it as the culprit; it's easy to check and will cause the problem you've described.
Fuel delivery up to the new-new fuel is fine? You say the pump "pumps as it should" -- does that mean it delivers the specified amount of fuel when tested per the genuine Honda shop manual? Or just that it spits out a bunch of fuel?
You took the carbs apart and cleaned them. (My prime suspect! My guess is that you've got something wrong inside one of the carbs and are flooding a cylinder.) Did you use a shop manual or just wing it? Get everything back together perfectly? No vacuum leaks anywhere, inside or outside the carbs? Know how to check for external vacuum leaks?
Collapsing fuel line is certainly a possibility. How old is it? What's the condition? Any leaks?
Spark is not likely the problem but I'm sure plenty of folks will chime in with a hundred things to check -- just as someone foolishly told you that the rectifier might be the cause. (It can't. The bike wouldn't run at all if the regulator/rectifier was putting out AC volts. That's what the rectifier does: convert AC volts from the stator into DC volts to run the bike. The other part of the single unit regulates the DC volts into the proper range. Again, NOT the problem. You'd be complaining about a dead battery if it was.)
Electrical could be the problem, though. Check the battery connections. Check the other ends of the wires, too. And the main fuse. Plus the fuse box. Loose or corroded connections could cause disruptions to the electrical flow that might be intermittent. That could make the bike sputter and die. Maybe. Easy enough to check.
A couple of open questions in regard to your extraneous remarks:
o Does the overheating light work?
o Do you want to mess with the crankcase breather? (If so, go ahead. It won't change a thing but maybe you'll enjoy changing it.)
o Sputtering happens when you get "past about 5,000 RPM" has me wondering if you get that number from a tachometer. 5k is a lot on these bikes. 6k is just about the max -- not the redline but the point where the governor kicks in. (Either 6,200 or 6,500, something like that. I forget.) If you're going by ear for the RPMs you could be off by a bit. Hitting the governor makes the bike feel like it's sputtering. Not that I'm saying it's your sole problem, only that you might be confusing one with normal high-rev behavior for the bike. Maybe.
